Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey hope to get some guidance here. Formed a concrete patio and added a lip detail that stone veneer will tuck up under and I will duplicate the detail on a stair set.

My mistake was stripping too early. I cracked a bit of the lip off.

I plan to epoxy the pieces back on. They broke off in 2 big chunks. My question is do I do this now (green concrete) or wait till it’s set up a bit.

Or does anybody else have any ideas?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
I would probably grind out with nice straight lines that bottom piece and pour a patch right in place with some #3 bar drilled in.


You probably should have had a piece of bar in there originally.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I would probably grind out with nice straight lines that bottom piece and pour a patch right in place with some #3 bar drilled in.


You probably should have had a piece of bar in there originally.
Would have but the lower lip is only 2” thick. Bar is in the upper part of it, but not enough room in lower....

Next time I’ll use rigid foam I can just jack out for the embedded part of form
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,738 Posts
Is that a trapped sheet of plywood under the slab......:sad:

Eliminate the "pocket" , use a formed drip or install a stainless steel hemmed drip edge instead......

lay the faux stone..... then pour over last inch or so
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Is that a trapped sheet of plywood under the slab......<img src="http://img.contractortalk.com/smilies/sad.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Sad" class="inlineimg" />

Eliminate the "pocket" , use a formed drip or install a stainless steel hemmed drip edge instead......

lay the faux stone..... then pour over last inch or so
It’s a deck framed with a slope. 2 ply torch on roofing applied over that. 4” slab poured on top of torch on.

The point of the pocket was to allow the torch on to freely drain, even though the bulk water will flow off the concrete. There is a drip edge at the face of the torch on, there will be a counter flashing under the drip edge that will cover the top of the stone. Stone will tuck up into the pocket.

Sort of confused what you mean by forming a drip? You mean in the bottom edge of the slab itself? The detail in the slab is designed to be the same as the risers/treads in the future formed stairs leading to this patio
 

·
Contractor
Joined
·
6,961 Posts
I think that if you epoxy and pin it somehow it will stand up for quite sometime.

I have never seen a texture like that.

How do you do that and make it so uniform?

It looks like a pea gravel mix plus dye, there must be more that you do to get that look.

To your original post, I would wait a bit before attempting the repair, a couple weeks to get the concrete up to strength.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
I would wait as long as possibly, up to about 30 days. Two reasons: concrete strength and moisture bleed-off. Then i would epoxy, possibly with some 1/4” brass dowels. Might try to drill the dowel holes now while the strength is lower.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,360 Posts
I "glued" a concrete birdbath that was split in half with PL Premium. Figured there was nothing to loose. That was about 4 years ago and it still holds water. No fancy prep work, dowels, etc. Just gave both pieces a heavy dose, clamped it for a few days and trimmed what oozed out after it hardened.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
781 Posts
Looks like.....Trying to do too much with too little.

Looks like.....That rubber man made synthetic expansion joint material.

Waiting for....."Tear it out and re-do it."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
I "glued" a concrete birdbath that was split in half with PL Premium. Figured there was nothing to loose. That was about 4 years ago and it still holds water. No fancy prep work, dowels, etc. Just gave both pieces a heavy dose, clamped it for a few days and trimmed what oozed out after it hardened.
I once had the rear view mirror fall off our car windshield. I went and bought the kit from the auto parts place to fix it, fell off again.

The next time I use PL and just held it on with duct tape until it cured. It stayed on for 3 years and was still going strong when we sold the car.

That stuff is great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,360 Posts
I once had the rear view mirror fall off our car windshield. I went and bought the kit from the auto parts place to fix it, fell off again.

The next time I use PL and just held it on with duct tape until it cured. It stayed on for 3 years and was still going strong when we sold the car.

That stuff is great.
It's impressed me more than once. And it's cheap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,360 Posts
Another product that I would be confident as a permant repair is PC7 epoxy. And it would be a closer match. I've used this stuff for many years and it has never failed.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top