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Brazillian Cherry Hardwood Question

11K views 63 replies 18 participants last post by  BattleRidge 
#1 ·
I got a pallet of 3/4" x 3-1/4" Brazilian Cherry, Bruce bran (not related tot he teak question. We went with BR-111 and all I can say is THANK YOU too all whole steered me toward BR-111. Wife loves me for it!). I'm curious as heck to know, I've opened 3 or 4 boxes so far, and so far there has been exactly TWO full length pieces (48") (the size of the box)... the rest are around the 22"-28" range. Is this typical with the species, or did I get screwed? or what? I love the finish (pre-finished "Natural") and I love look and feel of the wood, but I just wonderin' over the length.

Thanks, Pete
 
#3 ·
Brazilian cherry always comes boxed in shorter average lengths and the sizes are sually very similar.. as you go along, you will find boxes with longer materials..

the packaging and milling is done in brazil and in some instances, CHina..

you need to open a bunch of boxes at once and form the floor, dispersing lengths and setting proper staggers so you dont form H patterns and have joints too close.. some boxes will have more shorts and somre longer..

disperse the lengths accordinlgy through the room so you dont build a brick house
 
#5 ·
You know what... you're friggin' right AGAIN! I had one box with 1 4'er and then I had another box with 4 4'ers --- basically have them acclimating now (I'm doing the job myself -- application is a coastal area, so I have to be very careful.) Once I am 100% happy with the moisture stabilization and number off my meter (ordering a Lignomat E/D Mini Moisture Meter (unless you like something better)) then I will drop the Aquabar B (roll down so coil faces down with a 6" overlap @ seams.

Job will be stapled with Bostich 1-1/2" staples.

I'm brute - framing is much more forgiving than finish work.

I'll keep a piece of masking tape on the "pad/shoe" of the gun to protect the finish.

Plan on predrilling all ones I can't get at with gun.

This Cherry is some heavy/hard stuff.

If you have any other hints/tips... spill the beans.

And actually I specifically called my wife to the computer to show her where I learned about the BR-111.

Thanks,
Pete
 
#6 ·
1 thing to make sure of is that there are no hot water/heat pipes, ducts under the subflooring within 12' of the subfloor.

This will cause "hot spots" in the flooring and will cause the Cherry to run wild on you making oversized gapping in flooring.

they will correct in summer when heat not used, but in heaitng season, it can cause the floor .
You are only using 11/2 so nailing to beams can not be done.. i would recommmend this otherwise..
 
#7 ·
Any hot water pipes that run within 12" ( you said 12', I have to think typo) :D of the floor (if any, I don't believe there are) -- they aren't already, I will insulate and then go over with whatever O.D. Size insulation again. So that should fix, if needed, correct?

Next up. I can snap a line along joist lines and use 2" staples in those strike zones... if you think it is a good idea? Keep in mind that that the subfloor is 3/4" T&G maple (very very old house). Are saying that it is a good idea to try and strike as many joists as possible?
 
#8 ·
what size floor you putting in?
that will detemrine it..
it you have a plank subfloor, is it on a 45? if strait, you need to reverse direction..ideally,put thin underlay down 1/4"-3/8"

dont put floor same direction as subfloor..

dont bother changing nail sizes..not worth it and will be highly unproductive.
insulate pipes and or underside of subfloor to stop heat transmission to flooring..
 
#9 · (Edited)
The one room is about 110sf, then a smaller room area that is about 40. There is a room that follows out the door to the 110sf that is about another 125 sf.

The subfloor is down perpendicular to the joists and I was planing on putting down the new floor, most likely on a 45 (bias), OR opposite the sub-floor direction (which would be parallel to the joists).

I'll keep the nails all the 1-1/2" as per your advice.

How's that. :clap:

Edit:

Wife has ruled. Floor to be installed on bias:

 
#10 ·
I'm guessing that (like the picture above) when doing a bias, it looks best with the "run" of boards moving from you (so when you enter the room there is the "run" of the length of the board, not horizontal)?

Basically like the picture, if you were entering from the doorway in the picture?
 
#20 ·
I know, I know I was in a hurry! :D

It is not an open floor plan. What you basically have is an entry foyer with a 36" opening to the "Parlor" The parlor is like a "reception room" maybe 100sf-sh and if you are in the foyer, to the right are the stairs to the master suite and to the left there is a door to a small bedroom (about 140sf) The small bedroom is actually a 100sf room and then a small 40sf "nook" with a slight "step-down".

Directly in front of you, if you're in the foyer is a straight shot to the kitchen/sunroom/living area.

Does that help?

If not I can stop and draw a better pic. :)
 
#24 ·
i usually like to offset angles.. set it so the directions have the natural flow of entry to a space..

but i dont like 45s going all the same direction in the home...

nicer to create a "zig zag effect,if you know what I mean.

one home we did, the 45 pattern was layed out in zig zag,to natural eye flow of entry to the space.
by the time the floor was done, if you were able to to see it from above, it formed a perfect diamond.
 
#27 ·
The Brazilian Cherry I'm using is Bruce, not BR-111, however I'm happy to see that even with the BR-111 (a superior product v. the Bruce) -- you had many short pieces too... so it really *is* the nature of the beast as said here.

That work looks terrific!!!

I hope my floor comes out as well.

Did you nail or staple? (and what gun did you use?)
 
#31 ·
Yes. The subfloor is basically 3/4" x 2-1/4" flooring over the joists. This is an old bungalow style home and I have to guess the morons that built it, didn't think it needed a subfloor. (UGH!) -- so this IS the subfloor. The irony is that it is a solid and silent floor, then again it is over 80 years old.

Those are some very nice lengths -- where did you get them from?
 
#32 ·
unfinished floors will come in greater lengths if you get clear materials..you can also order "mill run" lengths and get average lengths of 4.5" and longer.

wont get those lengths in pre finsihed floors in any moaterials or manufacturer..i have however seens nice long bamboo packaged in 6 ft lengths.

but think logically..

manufacturers weed out alot of bad materials for their packaging and final prodcut..aot of waste is utilized and for simple carton packaging, the lengths have to be accomodating.
 
#33 ·
Another reason for the short lengths is the flooring has to be cut short enough so when boxed and put on pallets, it is short enough to fit sideways in an eighteen wheeler.
Thats why I have most of my flooring milled locally to get the long lengths. All those shorts look realy bad on 5" wide or just plank flooring in general.
This is a photo of a current job we are doing. 3000 s.f. 3/4 x 5 Brazilian Cherry. The shortest plank was 3' and the longest is 16'. The average length is 12'

 
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