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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a pallet of 3/4" x 3-1/4" Brazilian Cherry, Bruce bran (not related tot he teak question. We went with BR-111 and all I can say is THANK YOU too all whole steered me toward BR-111. Wife loves me for it!). I'm curious as heck to know, I've opened 3 or 4 boxes so far, and so far there has been exactly TWO full length pieces (48") (the size of the box)... the rest are around the 22"-28" range. Is this typical with the species, or did I get screwed? or what? I love the finish (pre-finished "Natural") and I love look and feel of the wood, but I just wonderin' over the length.

Thanks, Pete
 

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topsail's trimcat
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thats the nature of the beast when it comes to exotics, you get what you get, the wood is cut based on what they can get out of the tree
 

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Brazilian cherry always comes boxed in shorter average lengths and the sizes are sually very similar.. as you go along, you will find boxes with longer materials..

the packaging and milling is done in brazil and in some instances, CHina..

you need to open a bunch of boxes at once and form the floor, dispersing lengths and setting proper staggers so you dont form H patterns and have joints too close.. some boxes will have more shorts and somre longer..

disperse the lengths accordinlgy through the room so you dont build a brick house
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You know what... you're friggin' right AGAIN! I had one box with 1 4'er and then I had another box with 4 4'ers --- basically have them acclimating now (I'm doing the job myself -- application is a coastal area, so I have to be very careful.) Once I am 100% happy with the moisture stabilization and number off my meter (ordering a Lignomat E/D Mini Moisture Meter (unless you like something better)) then I will drop the Aquabar B (roll down so coil faces down with a 6" overlap @ seams.

Job will be stapled with Bostich 1-1/2" staples.

I'm brute - framing is much more forgiving than finish work.

I'll keep a piece of masking tape on the "pad/shoe" of the gun to protect the finish.

Plan on predrilling all ones I can't get at with gun.

This Cherry is some heavy/hard stuff.

If you have any other hints/tips... spill the beans.

And actually I specifically called my wife to the computer to show her where I learned about the BR-111.

Thanks,
Pete
 

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1 thing to make sure of is that there are no hot water/heat pipes, ducts under the subflooring within 12' of the subfloor.

This will cause "hot spots" in the flooring and will cause the Cherry to run wild on you making oversized gapping in flooring.

they will correct in summer when heat not used, but in heaitng season, it can cause the floor .
You are only using 11/2 so nailing to beams can not be done.. i would recommmend this otherwise..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Any hot water pipes that run within 12" ( you said 12', I have to think typo) :D of the floor (if any, I don't believe there are) -- they aren't already, I will insulate and then go over with whatever O.D. Size insulation again. So that should fix, if needed, correct?

Next up. I can snap a line along joist lines and use 2" staples in those strike zones... if you think it is a good idea? Keep in mind that that the subfloor is 3/4" T&G maple (very very old house). Are saying that it is a good idea to try and strike as many joists as possible?
 

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what size floor you putting in?
that will detemrine it..
it you have a plank subfloor, is it on a 45? if strait, you need to reverse direction..ideally,put thin underlay down 1/4"-3/8"

dont put floor same direction as subfloor..

dont bother changing nail sizes..not worth it and will be highly unproductive.
insulate pipes and or underside of subfloor to stop heat transmission to flooring..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
what size floor you putting in?
that will detemrine it..
it you have a plank subfloor, is it on a 45? if strait, you need to reverse direction..ideally,put thin underlay down 1/4"-3/8"

dont put floor same direction as subfloor..

dont bother changing nail sizes..not worth it and will be highly unproductive.
insulate pipes and or underside of subfloor to stop heat transmission to flooring..
The one room is about 110sf, then a smaller room area that is about 40. There is a room that follows out the door to the 110sf that is about another 125 sf.

The subfloor is down perpendicular to the joists and I was planing on putting down the new floor, most likely on a 45 (bias), OR opposite the sub-floor direction (which would be parallel to the joists).

I'll keep the nails all the 1-1/2" as per your advice.

How's that. :clap:

Edit:

Wife has ruled. Floor to be installed on bias:

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm guessing that (like the picture above) when doing a bias, it looks best with the "run" of boards moving from you (so when you enter the room there is the "run" of the length of the board, not horizontal)?

Basically like the picture, if you were entering from the doorway in the picture?
 

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Handle It!
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I'm guessing that (like the picture above) when doing a bias, it looks best with the "run" of boards moving from you (so when you enter the room there is the "run" of the length of the board, not horizontal)?

Basically like the picture, if you were entering from the doorway in the picture?

Run them 45 in the complimentary direction and the room would become "Weird". They need to run in the direction of the LONGEST VISIBLE span.
 

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Handle It!
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Ok... so you like the one on the right? (I'm just making sure, before I make case to wifey) :D

The flow of traffic SHOULD follow the pattern, so yes the one on the right. But I am NOT a Floor Guy. Wait for others to "Chime In".


Anyhow...........I ACTUALLY have to go to do some work today. Imagine that!!!! Chat at you later!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I know, I know I was in a hurry! :D

It is not an open floor plan. What you basically have is an entry foyer with a 36" opening to the "Parlor" The parlor is like a "reception room" maybe 100sf-sh and if you are in the foyer, to the right are the stairs to the master suite and to the left there is a door to a small bedroom (about 140sf) The small bedroom is actually a 100sf room and then a small 40sf "nook" with a slight "step-down".

Directly in front of you, if you're in the foyer is a straight shot to the kitchen/sunroom/living area.

Does that help?

If not I can stop and draw a better pic. :)
 
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