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box wainscoting & chair rail

19K views 32 replies 7 participants last post by  loneframer 
#1 ·
I have a picture that a customer gave to me and it looks like there is SHEETROCK painted white under the chair rail instead of wood panel
with "box wainscoting" made with base cap.

Is this standard for a "box wainscoat" without a wood panel behind it?

Semi-gloss white?

any ideas?

Thanks Guys
 
#5 ·
that is spectacular!! holy crap!!!

so it has to be wood behind the base cap, not white painted sheetrock, Right?
The curved staircase has 2 layers of 1/4" rock over 8" centered studs, nothing else. All the trim is over rock, stud nailed and painted semi-gloss white.:thumbsup: All the trim is MDF.
 
#10 ·
All MDF. The chair was pretty stout, as was the base, but I whooped up on it pretty good.:laughing: The panel molding is actually the top of some left over baseboard that I ripped down.:whistling The remainder of it got used in the garage.:thumbup:
 
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#15 ·
That's true, although, I have two bids out on identical foyers directly across the street from each other as we type. They're in a tract development and I hope my name travels in both directions, from one end to the other. It ain't really that cheap in a furnished home in a 2 story foyer, with crown and wall panels throughout.:thumbsup:
 
#26 ·
I knew that is where you were going.

The answer to that is, c) it depends:laughing:

With folks around here losing 20% of their homes value in the last 4 years, I'd be happy to staple rope lighting up as chair rail for them.:laughing:

For me, I'll do anything they ask for, so long as it can be done professionally and profitably. Very few people are willing to put out the additional funds for the real deal, especially when most folks don't know the difference.:thumbsup:
the sad part is they don't notice.

Yep, and that's the kicker, so many don't even notice the difference...just in price. :blink:

When I'm quoting something like this, I'll draw it up both ways...the real way...and the "faux" way, and with a price for both.

I try to sell the frame and panel as more authentic, but for the most part at 3-4 times the price, it's a no go.
Like I said, depends.

I sold another real deal paneled job. So either I am too cheap or I did ok.:laughing:
 
#22 ·
Yep, and that's the kicker, so many don't even notice the difference...just in price. :blink:

When I'm quoting something like this, I'll draw it up both ways...the real way...and the "faux" way, and with a price for both.

I try to sell the frame and panel as more authentic, but for the most part at 3-4 times the price, it's a no go.
 
#24 ·
Loneframer,

I don't mean to unkind and haven't commented when you've posted this pic before, but all the transitions from rake to level at the landing drive me crazy.
Actually, you have mentioned it before, but thanks for reminding me.:thumbsup:
 
#30 ·
Room Property Wall Door Furniture


Real "panel molding" steps down in elevation. This has a 1/2" elevation change. If you make your frame with 3/4" stack then the panel is 1/4" thick.

This was shop made and brought to the house and trimmed to length. If you miter your panel molding to be slightly loose, you can tack the miters together with pins and glue then lay the panel molding frame into your opening and carefully pin it in place. Roll the whole assembly over and squeeze some glue in the small voids between the molding and frame. Then finish up by gluing and pinning the 1/4" panel on from the back.

This method can be done pretty quick with a little planning.

Or you can tack some base cap right on the drywall. Same thing.:whistling
 
#33 ·
View attachment 37997

Real "panel molding" steps down in elevation. This has a 1/2" elevation change. If you make your frame with 3/4" stack then the panel is 1/4" thick.

This was shop made and brought to the house and trimmed to length. If you miter your panel molding to be slightly loose, you can tack the miters together with pins and glue then lay the panel molding frame into your opening and carefully pin it in place. Roll the whole assembly over and squeeze some glue in the small voids between the molding and frame. Then finish up by gluing and pinning the 1/4" panel on from the back.

This method can be done pretty quick with a little planning.

Or you can tack some base cap right on the drywall. Same thing.:whistling
That's how they do it in Cali....:thumbsup:

 
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