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Hardwood floors/custom cabinets
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Install looks good, but a little more effort could have been made to make the rails & newels match the floors.
 

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Good with wood
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
painterman said:
Looks good... but dude that baseboard looks a little funky
Yeah I know. I'm not sure who did it. But I agree it's James brown funky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The rails, newels and treads are unfinished. The rail is sanded smooth from the supplier. The only thing I installed was the rail, newels and balusters. As far as the continuity goes, I know the inspector and asked him about it and he gave me the thumbs up. Thanks for all of your thoughts. It was my first time doing newels and balusters. Something I usually sub out but it was for a friend of mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
painterman said:
Return it on itself .. change the direction downward...not sure how to explain it.
I get what you're saying. I would have ran the base a lot differently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
rrk said:
Next time cut the newels, the top of the newel is almost 5' above the floor
Will do. I cut 8" off of those already. Thanks for the heads up. I was nervous about cutting them too much since the upper part of the newel is hollow.
 

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Design/Build Remodeling
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Next time cut the newels, the top of the newel is almost 5' above the floor
Yep! rrk brings up a good point I didn’t catch originally. The rail should hit the newel below the cap and above the top trim piece. Here’s one we did with just about the same layout. Don’t sweat it – we’re just trying to help for your next one :thumbsup:

 

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the newell is meant to be hollow! Take the offfall piece and use it as an anchor. Glue and screw it to the floor or step and the hollow newell slides right over it with glue of coarse. titebond or any regular wood glue works great. Dont use PL it flexes to much
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
DaVinciRemodel said:
Yep! rrk brings up a good point I didn’t catch originally. The rail should hit the newel below the cap and above the top trim piece. Here’s one we did with just about the same layout. Don’t sweat it – we’re just trying to help for your next one :thumbsup: http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/d...tleton-entry-staircase-remodel-after.jpg.html
Point noted. That looks great man. I appreciate all of the info and tips I get from you guys. I'm looking forward to the next one now!
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
spartancc said:
the newell is meant to be hollow! Take the offfall piece and use it as an anchor. Glue and screw it to the floor or step and the hollow newell slides right over it with glue of coarse. titebond or any regular wood glue works great. Dont use PL it flexes to much
The newel already had a block to mount to the tread. I glued it titebond and lagged it to the tread. Then I glued the block, set the newel on top and put some good nails in it. Where I mounted the rail was solid and above it where it should have gone was hollow. I was just a bit nervous about strength. I do agree though that it would look better and will do it that way next time. Thanks for your info man!
 
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Maker of fine kindling
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Is the wall mounted rail tight to the wall?
I think you need brackets that will make for a grab able rail.
 

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pinwheel said:
Returns on the ends & brackets show in the first pic, so I'd bet that's finger room.
I see said the blind man. I'll be quiet.
 
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