This is the most important part, IMHO. No matter how well you match the spray, if you don't pay lots of attention to this step, it will look terrible.D.E.P.S. said:Blending is the key. I use hot mud and bust it out about 8-10 inches around the repair. I sponge the mud out towards edges as it is almost fully set. Keep sponging until the old knockdown is popping through the mud on the last 4-5 inches all around. Keep an eye for any ridges or mud build ups that will show edging................ Just keep feathering!
Skip trowel it! :thumbup:Not to steal the topic, but I have to do a knock-down tomorrow, and doing the entire ceiling area of 117 sq. ft.. Done some in the past without issues to big. But a spray is out for us, don't do enough. We have always rolled the mud on with a paint roller. My question is, and I know it is hard to be sure of what, BUT what size nap roller do most of ya use?? I do have some flex in the texture for it is not beside another in the area, just close. Thanks
Post a pic when you get a chance. I'd like to see what you are trying to do. I like picking up on new things.Thanks, BUT!! that is not the look we want or need? MY bad! What it is, what we call a knock-down in the area with about 30 coats of paint!!!! There is the variables, low spots, high spots, BUT no sharp edges to say??? Hard to explain! No camera to shot with, and my phone is a old as me! Sorry I have no more info than that,, I need to get a smart phone, then go back to learning how to us it!
Thank you. :thumbsup:Hey Paul, how do you get to skip and not skim a large area? Is it a dry mud, or some wrist action applying?
Nice look! I'm gonna have to try that:thumbsup:
True and false.This is a problem in the drywall industry. Each geographical location seems to have thier own terminology as to what different textures are called.
Any texture applied with a roller will not give you a knock down pattern, at least in my neck of the woods. It will give you some kind of pattern, but I wouldn't know what to call it.