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Glen
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1,504 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just made this up the other day and now I wouldn't want to be without it. A professional one is almost $300. Any one know of a cheaper one or have you also made your own? I found I had to switch to an Led bulb.
Regular spot lights break fast. Either from impact or just from shaking.
The LED is about $25. from Wallmart but has no filiment to shake loose or burn out. And it has a hard plastic shell instead of glass. It is a par16 4 watt flood. I wire tied the drop light to a piece of pvc 2 1/2 diameter that with the right cut done on my small table saw fits right up over the nozle holder. I use a longer PVC tube the same way as an extension when I need to stand up and blast a floor or somthing over head.
 

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Glen
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1,504 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks. I'm going to re work it so it is more forward to get less shadow. I may also make one with the larger led spot for when I don't need to be in a tight space, because it will be twice the diameter, but it will twice the light too. Hasn't anyone else tried this or bought one?
 

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Trial and Error Opperator
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2,018 Posts
"The LED is about $25. from Wallmart but has no filiment to shake loose or burn out..
I'm going to re work it so it is more forward to get less shadow"

Hows the light working? have you tweeked it yet

I saw one light that was $300. :w00t:

I just did a 37 ford truck and had a hard time seeing the inside, my hand held light keeped blowing...
Led sound like would be a good switch, no filliment to move around.

I think I might put one on a big clip and try it too?
let us know! :notworthy
 

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Glen
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1,504 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Actually I made a whole new one. This time I got an led on line that is 350 lumins. The walmart light is only 100 lumins. I used a snake like spot light extension that I found in Lowes. It lets me bend the light around where I need it. I will post a pic when I get back to work and the site that I found the light on. I think it was ledwarehouse.com. a par20 led light. the par means 1 1/8 inch diameter times the par. A par 20 is about 1.6 inches. 20 times 1 1/8. Still not too big to work with.
 

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Glen
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1,504 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The 100 is a par 16 so it has a smaller diameter and so a smaller spot. The 350 is a half inch wider so a much larger spot and three times as bright. I will return the walmart one, I kept the package. The one I just got was $35. I think. I actually signed up for a credit card from Amazon , which is whare I found the bulb,that gave me $40. free on first purchace so it came to me for free. It has an aluminum heat sink around it instead of a glass bulb like a halogen so it wont crack if it hits anything. No heat so it won't burn you. I'm sure I'll keep re designing the way it hooks to the hose.

The thing from Lowes I am using is meant to screw in to a spot light to extend it. It's $13. I bought a screw base for $2.00 in there electrical bins and a three prong plug end to wire to that. I got a two inch piece of pvc maybe five inches long and put the three prong adapter in the one side and ran the wires through and the screw base on the other side so its like one unit. that the extension can screw in to and I can plug an extension cord in the other end. I wire tied it to another piece of pvc that fits on to the nozzle holder like the one in my photo up top. I'll get a pic of it up here on Mon.
 

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any media master blaster
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166 Posts
You guys want a blast light- go to Home Depot and buy 5 led battery operated flashlights ( batteries included) for ten bucks tape two or three to the blast nozzle and throw em out when your done or use em 10x if your cheap like me.If the setup pictured above operates on 110 volts its dangerous and silly!
 

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Glen
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1,504 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I don't know about dangerous? Have you ever used a drill that plugs in ? Or like every other tool in the world? Of course I wouldn't stand in a puddle but then I don't usually stand in a puddle when I blast, do you?

Your idea is valid. There are always other ways to do things and I did ask for everyones input. This set up is only about $20.00 plus the bulb and it is much brighter than any flash light could be. I'm just trying things to see what works best for me.

If I can save even one blaster from my same "silly" mistake, my own sacrifice will have been worth it.
 

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Glen
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1,504 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just to mention, The light works also from my d.c. 12 volt inverter. I can run it off of the compressor with no major shock worries should I need to blast in a questional environment. Next time I blast a pool I'm going to have them drain it first anyway. Takes too long comming up for air.
 

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any media master blaster
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166 Posts
I really don't wish to go any further with this but 120volts near the destructive outlet of the nozzle is not cool why do you think electric controls and available lights are low voltage not to mention explosion proof.

For your own use this is great but get OSHA on a job site with this and the operator might be paying one of those 7k fines.JMHO
 

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Glen
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1,504 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My thread so I will go further. Low voltage dead man and such because they run off the "low voltage" compressor batery.

Explosion proof is is for exhaust equipment that is working with paint fumes that could explode, I own a paint booth. Blast media will never explode and there is no explosion proof nozzles or dead man switches for blasting for this very reason that I am aware of.

You can run it off the inverter so it is NOT 120 volts. it is 12 volt D.C.

The reason the commercial blast lights, check out construction equipment and supply company, are designed with a Low voltage light is so they are marketable for a mobile operation. They advertise it can run on EITHER 120 ac, that's right it says 120 ac OR 12 volt dc.

Mine will not electricute anyone who tries it like I do with 12 volt from an inverter. And osha would be just fine with it for this reason.

I'm not trying to pick a fight but why be such a downer over this goofy little project of mine. And you jumped to a few conclusions that I think I have explained away.

I like to show off my experiments and I think most people in here are glad when anyone shares anything.

Peace
 

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Just to mention, The light works also from my d.c. 12 volt inverter. I can run it off of the compressor with no major shock worries should I need to blast in a questional environment. Next time I blast a pool I'm going to have them drain it first anyway. Takes too long comming up for air.
using the 12v inverter,get a cheap utillity light(rubber enclosed) from your local autozone or the like and run E cord with minor mod for cheap and durable long lasting light source.REPLACEMENT BULBS ARE CHEAP and so is utillity light.figure it out,it's so easy a caveman has done it.
I never had any issues running 110v 150w flood light in any blasting situation in thousands of hours in confined or exterior work on government work of any kind.wes what has changed for lighting requirements.also i never attached my light to the hose,and never will as i prefer being mobile and not attached.
 

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My thread so I will go further. Low voltage dead man and such because they run off the "low voltage" compressor batery.

Explosion proof is is for exhaust equipment that is working with paint fumes that could explode, I own a paint booth. Blast media will never explode and there is no explosion proof nozzles or dead man switches for blasting for this very reason that I am aware of.

You can run it off the inverter so it is NOT 120 volts. it is 12 volt D.C.

The reason the commercial blast lights, check out construction equipment and supply company, are designed with a Low voltage light is so they are marketable for a mobile operation. They advertise it can run on EITHER 120 ac, that's right it says 120 ac OR 12 volt dc.

Mine will not electricute anyone who tries it like I do with 12 volt from an inverter. And osha would be just fine with it for this reason.

I'm not trying to pick a fight but why be such a downer over this goofy little project of mine. And you jumped to a few conclusions that I think I have explained away.

I like to show off my experiments and I think most people in here are glad when anyone shares anything.

Peace
Dust collectors can go boom and sparks generated while blasting can make certain confined space situations go boom:shifty:.
 

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Glen
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1,504 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah any dust can do that in the most extreme situations but they sell regular corded blast lights and fans that are sutible for a leagle blast booth . you can't run a regular light or fan or cord in a spray booth.

This light is cheap just $30 bucks and 350 lumins bright 50,000 hours of use. A regular bulb might hit 40 lumins

I don't think there has been this much concern over Afganistan, wow. We all must need a new subject somone help.
 

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We've used 120volt lights on the end of blast nozzles for years in all kinds of tanks and have never come close to being shocked. You always use a GFCI on all power equipment anyway's. I have always used a drop light socket end and used 100 watt or larger spot light bulbs. Never had a issue. There cheap too. You have to use the ones with a thick glass face. All that happens to the bulb is the face get's frosted from the bounce back.
 
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