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better header, lifting it.......

19K views 11 replies 10 participants last post by  skyhook  
#1 ·
hey guys,

i have to install a better header, heard of them but never saw one until this job we are doing now. it's two 1 3/4 x 7 lvls sandwiched over 3/4 steel flitch plate. the damn thing is really heavy i have a lull on the job but this is in the first floor of a cape house, it's going in down the center of the floor joists of the attic( cape and we built a shed dormer across the front of the house.
not sure if they make special jacks that can roll and support this better header so it's easier to install. i've heard of them but never saw them
i have bottle jacks but we just use them for jacking stuff up that's already installed. this we have to lift up 8' into a cavity that we'll cut into each joist. 24' long this beam is. it was hard for even 3 guys to even slide it in off the lull in through the wall cavity before we sheathed the wall. so it's lying on the floor now and i have to install it monday. i'm not even sure how we'll lift it i can get 6 guys there but this thing is a monster and i am not sure we can do it without someone getting hurt.

where can i get these beam jacks? i looked online to find them but couldnt' get any place that sold them. maybe i was searching with the wrong terms.

my only other solution and it won't get it all the way up into the cavity but it will get it off the floor 4' or so, is sticking the lull forks through a huge window opening framed in the one story addition we just built on the front of the house. but with forks on there, i can't get the beam all the way up. and another thing will be dealing with temp walls on both sides of the cavity because we are cutting that channel in the joists.
so those will be the way.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Primitive, - - but if nothing else, - - maybe you can rest each end on alternating (as-you-lift) doubled-up 2 X cleats (screwed into and across your temp walls, with temporary pre-cut 2 x's underneath them), - - you can raise each end up maybe at least 2' at a time, - - and this way you's only have to lift one end up at a time as you go. Left side cleat goes at 2', - - then right side at 4', - - then left side again at 6', - - etc.,etc.

It's actually a very safe (and cheap) method, - - and no jack to possibly slip out or any of that, - - just don't skip the uprights under the screwed-in cleats. You can actually have your uprights already installed before you even start lifting, - - and just keep alternately re-locating your two doubled-up cleats . . .
 
#3 ·
Can you get a come-a-long up in the attic/second floor to a good anchor point? I don't know what your interior looks like as far a open space. Once we had the same type of problem, lifting a paralam beam with limited manpower. We used a come-a-long and built an "A" frame support in the attic space for a 4x6 centered over the beam on the floor below and hung the come-a-long from the 4x6. The winch took the weight while the other two guys manuvered the beam into place.

You could even go up through the roof if the shingles haven't been installed yet.

Another thought, renting or borrowing one of those lifts they use to install ceiling-hung HVAC units.

Unfortunatly I am not close enough to give you a hand on Monday. :001_unsure:
 
#4 ·
I used a 16' in my house and put it up my self using a mini excavator to get it into the kitchen then using a wall jack making a tee pee configuration over the center of it I was able to just ratchet it up in place.
TomR's way sounds good also with the man power you have.
 
#6 ·
I've picked up a 24 foot 10"x 16" (or maybe 18") with one other guy. We did it much like Tom said although we had pallets of cement block on hand and just built pillars under the third points. If you use the third points for support you have less lifting to do when you pick up the alternating ends. This took us an entire day, but was still cheaper than getting a crane.

You could also build a strongback out of 2x6 with a crosstree on top gussetted with plywood, brace it well and then pick up your beam with a chain hoist. Just did this to lift a 20'-6"x12". Make sure you know how heavy this beam is if you are using hoists or come-alongs; you don't want to exceed the rated capacity.
 
#7 ·
I put a 20' long 8" steel I beam packed with wood recessed in a floor a few years ago. We usued a cleat system like Tom R mentioned. We would lift one side a couple of inches or ft nail a cleat to the wall then the other. We used 2 x 4s as levers to lift then when we finall got chest high we used 6 men to get underneath and it went right up easy. The cleats were scary but worked have 12's in your nail gun and dont leave any voids in between the cleats every couple ft throw a verticle 2x against the horizontal for extra support.
Good luck take it slow. Dont forget to have those cyinder blocks filled solid under the new post location. At least 2 courses by the piont load.
 
#9 ·
thanks for the help guys, i think we'll have 6 guys there total today, i ended up rounding some help from a friend of mine who's a roofing contractor and i've known him a long time. great hard worker, so we'll be ok. i was thinking of ratchet straps too, just fastening them up to the temp wall or up through the floor. the downstairs is completely open except for one room. the upstairs is clear but the ridge is 11' off the floor. we just installed two new ridge beams double 1 3/4 x 18 lvls. that would be a good anchor point for a winch but not really help us much for ratchet straps. i have good strong 2 1/2" wide ratchet straps and then 4 smaller ones, so if we used all of those plus have supports underneath them braced to the temp wall like described above, we'll make it work. most of your ideas are things i've used in the past, i just thought i remember seeing a nice set of beam jacks on a TV show one time, i think it was the silva boys up in mass. lifting some heavy beam up on this old house. i also have two big bottle jacks, a 20 ton and 12 ton, so we can get it up into place with those when it's close to installed.
thanks again guys, i'll let you know how it goes.
 
#11 ·
well. we ended up getting it in place. the lull never worked out, because once it was in the opening, we didn't have enough room above the boom to raise it up very much. so we just raised each end little by little until the whole thing was up close to being installed. one end had to stick into a block wall because the whole first floor the house is block. so that was the only part that took some time, along with cutting each floor joist out so the beam could sit flush up in the ceiling. once we got it close, bottl jacks raised it the last several inches and the joist hangers were put on.

thanks guys,
dan