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Best way to hang drywall on corners?

18K views 23 replies 15 participants last post by  sandshooter 
#1 · (Edited)
Im hanging a room currently and wondered if anyone puts the beveled edges on the outside and inside corners when possible so that there's a perfectly square corner. I have always cut the bevels of on corners and end up with a bump out on them corners. Does that make any sense? Here's what I mean below. Text Wall Ceiling Wood Notebook




 
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#4 ·
scottktmrider said:
It really doesn't matter cause the corner gets floated out anyway. if posable I won't put a recess on the outside corner cause its harder to clinch the bead on and it wants to twist
The corner being floated out is the thing in hoping doing it this way will solve. I have hung this one corner this way so will see how it turns out. So far with a level across it its a much more square and tidy corner. No mud on it yet though.
 
#5 ·
So did you have to add a stud so that the other side breaks on center? In a whole house, that would add up to a lot of studs and time. I am not much of a drywall finisher but I have hung a lot over the years. Never had any finisher complain about the corners.
 
#7 ·
Warren said:
So did you have to add a stud so that the other side breaks on center? In a whole house, that would add up to a lot of studs and time. I am not much of a drywall finisher but I have hung a lot over the years. Never had any finisher complain about the corners.
Most of the time I do drywall I put the framing up. Can't say it uses up any more studs than normal though. Never have paid attention. On this one it was on the side of a closet so it was a half sheet anyway.

What I don't like about the corners done the normal at is they kick out 8th of an inch. I'm sure most people don't even notice it but my anal ass does and it annoys me.
 
#12 ·
I would not put bevel edges on an outside corner. I use a six inch drywall knife to check my corners as I put them on. If the knife hits the board before the bead, you got trouble when you try to fill the corner bead. I was taught to use fibre tape on all my beads as well. Might be a bit extra but sure beats cracked corners.
 
#14 ·
I've often thought about it. Never done it. We always hang horizontal. Not that we haven't ever done stand ups, just very rarely.
I think we might think about it more when we install base. I usually have to go to a 46 degree (sometimes almost 47 degree) to get the outside corner to meet properly. That's when I think about the beveled edge.
For corner bead, I haven't seen a clincher for at least 20 years. Mostly I see fine mesh plaster bead (Kal coat bead possibly). It gets stapled on and the mud holds it in place.
Lately I have been using a different drywall guy. He insists on vinyl corner bead. Still stapled in place. No problems so far.
 
#16 ·
It won't make a difference once its taped cause the corner will be filled with mud,
The only thing is you will have to twist the bead so it sticks out past the bevel so it can be floated past the bevel
I try not to put bevel on the outside corner but if it works out all the way down the wall if I throw up a full sheet I'll do it
 
#17 ·
Normal outside corners I would not worry a whole lot about this procedure. But one hanging soffits and custom shelves with drywall the recessed Edge does make a difference and makes it flatter.

Putting a bead on requires a little bit of skill but the recessed edge is about a 1/8", which is about what the corner bead takes up.

Just think about that for a second.
 
#18 ·
I am currently drywalling a basement, and am trying the exact same thing. Lots of short walls/runs, so in a lot of places I am standing sheets up to avoid 4' joints. I'm putting the bevel on the outside corners.

I'm not a pro drywaller, so I don't have the insight they may have, but I want to give it a try in the hope that it will allow me to use less mud to feather it out. We will see.
 
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