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Livin the dream...
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
What do you guys do on the tops of your shower curbs?

See pic for the situation.

I'm thinking of ordering a solid marble or granite piece to cap the top of the curb and knee wall.

Didn't know what is simplest way to handle it with ceramic tile???

I'm thinking I'll make it the exact width of the curb. No overhand in any direction.

Then I'll double up bull nose tile and run them up the vertical end of the knee wall. I'm worried that if I go with a solid piece up the vertical part of the knee wall I won't be able to get the seams to look right.

Thoughts???
 

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Most often I order a solid granite threshold ----you need it to overhang the tile--this will hide your cuts----ask the granite company to cut a groove on the back side about a 1/4" in from the bull nose--this makes the water drip off the slab and not roll under and get the curb wet----(or framing)

Tile can be used---if granite is not in the budget---just make sure the curb and framing are well waterproofed---
 

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I have already used the marble thresholds they sell at Lowes and home depot. you have to make your curb to suit there width but you definitely want the over hang even if it is only 3/8" it looks nicer. they only sell them in two colors and certain lengths. but you can seam them and grout between them with epoxy grout.
nicko
 

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Talking Head
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A tile supplier should have several different threshold stones for you to choose from. I would only use them on the horizontal but that's a personal preference.

I tile my curbs, you can use bullnose or Schluter profiles to finish the edge. Using a stone threshold is easier IMO.
 

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I like the rondec look also, works well with a budget tile like the 12x24's everyone uses.
I would also put a roof or ceiling over that bathroom.
 

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Carpenter
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In a situation like yours we generally have our tile guy install marble on top of the knee wall and saddle. Generally with a 1/4 to 3/8 overhang. On the vertical, or jamb sides, we use tile.

On lower end jobs we get a saddle from our supplier and they work well. I think you can get them in a few different widths.

On higher end jobs we line all three sides with marble or granite - whatever the customer wants.

I attached a couple of pics to give you an idea. I know I have better pics somewhere - even one of the exact situation you are doing. I'll see if I can find them.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Lee
 

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Livin the dream...
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A tile supplier should have several different threshold stones for you to choose from. I would only use them on the horizontal but that's a personal preference.

I tile my curbs, you can use bullnose or Schluter profiles to finish the edge. Using a stone threshold is easier IMO.
Do you end up ripping the bullnose or can you make it work out with two pieces? I'm using a kerdi curb so it starts out at 4.5"
 

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Talking Head
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Do you end up ripping the bullnose or can you make it work out with two pieces? I'm using a kerdi curb so it starts out at 4.5"
Are you talking about ripping the width down on the bullnose? If so then the answer is "sometimes". I almost always have to rip at least one of the pieces.

I try to have the joint fall under the glass so it disappears when the door is closed. I usually try to cheat the glass closer to the outside of the curb if there's a halfwall so the HO gets a little bit of shelf there. If it's right next to the vanity I might go the other direction so the shelf is next to the vanity. The nice thing about using a Schluter profile or making your own Jollys for the edge is that you can have a single piece across the width. It's more time consuming though so it's done for appearance, not for cost.

Tile is very versatile, I don't do a lot of showers but every one lends itself to a different combination of profiles depending on the space and the tile selection.
 

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Hair Splitter
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I've done it pretty much every way. Sometimes the bullnose is not too wide, sometimes I rip them to size, but mostly I do solid thresholds and caps. I like using the counter material to pull everything together, but also like to match the tile when the design dictates it.

As for making sure it is well waterproofed, that goes without saying no matter what method you use to finish it. The curb should be waterproofed inside and out.
 

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I'm thinking of ordering a solid marble or granite piece to cap the top of the curb and knee wall.
This often looks good If you tie it in with vanity top and other horizontals, window ledges. . .

Didn't know what is simplest way to handle it with ceramic tile???
The simplest way, not the cheapest, is to invest in profiling equipment. A wet polisher and 3/8 profile wheel will get you on your way for less than $500. The ability to make custom sized bullnose will take your bathrooms to a new level because you can make elegant solutions to site problems quickly, Deep niches , double sided caps for walls and thresholds, no more needing to miter 90 deg corners, rounded benchs are all now easily fabricated and can be set on the same day as the rest of the tile.
 

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Paul
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Granite, Silestone, quartz, marble, etc. I try to incorporate the same material into the curb top, corner shelves, and niche sill. If planned ahead, and you have a slab shop connection, it turns out not much more expensive and imo looks a lot better than standard marble from a box store.
 

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Paul
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This often looks good If you tie it in with vanity top and other horizontals, window ledges. . .

The simplest way, not the cheapest, is to invest in profiling equipment. A wet polisher and 3/8 profile wheel will get you on your way for less than $500. The ability to make custom sized bullnose will take your bathrooms to a new level because you can make elegant solutions to site problems quickly, Deep niches , double sided caps for walls and thresholds, no more needing to miter 90 deg corners, rounded benchs are all now easily fabricated and can be set on the same day as the rest of the tile.
Agreed - if the vanity is being done the sink cutout alone can be used for accents that will really look custom for little money.
 

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If you are luck--you will eventually find a granite fabricator that you can work with--I send a lot of customers to one shop---and they bend over backwards to help me when I need a shower seat or curb----nice to have friends in the business---
 

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T

The simplest way, not the cheapest, is to invest in profiling equipment. A wet polisher and 3/8 profile wheel will get you on your way for less than $500. The ability to make custom sized bullnose will take your bathrooms to a new level because you can make elegant solutions to site problems quickly, Deep niches , double sided caps for walls and thresholds, no more needing to miter 90 deg corners, rounded benchs are all now easily fabricated and can be set on the same day as the rest of the tile.
Can please give us more info on profiling equipment? A stationary machine or handheld?

I am coming across many tiles lately that do not have a corresponding bullnose tile or waiting extended periods of time for the bullnose to be shipped to my supplier.
 

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Chief Reporter of Spam
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What do you guys do on the tops of your shower curbs?

See pic for the situation.

I'm thinking of ordering a solid marble or granite piece to cap the top of the curb and knee wall.

Didn't know what is simplest way to handle it with ceramic tile???

I'm thinking I'll make it the exact width of the curb. No overhand in any direction.

Then I'll double up bull nose tile and run them up the vertical end of the knee wall. I'm worried that if I go with a solid piece up the vertical part of the knee wall I won't be able to get the seams to look right.

Thoughts???
I don't know why but this site won't upload any photos from my pc or Note2...
Try and see if you can get a 1/4"x8" bullnose or something to that effect.
www.aloneeagle.com/hummelstown-remodeling-contractor
 

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Can please give us more info on profiling equipment? A stationary machine or handheld?

I am coming across many tiles lately that do not have a corresponding bullnose tile or waiting extended periods of time for the bullnose to be shipped to my supplier.
Well the first step, in my opinion, is a wet polisher I use a FLEX but most will do. They range from $300-400. for the machine. Then get the Velcro backer and the wet diamond pads, (you can run them dry they will wear faster though). and I suggest a wet/dry profile wheel they run around $100 These can be purchased online if you do not have a supplier in you area. all told you are looking around $500-600. You can pick them up on line.

Once you get going with bull nose and word gets out that you can do them you may get enough volume that you can get a Bulldog. Used $1500-2000 new $3200, tooling is around $2500 for a set (mill-polish) so if you can find a used one with good wheels (wheels need to be run at different profile angles -from batch to batch- so you dont square them off. The Bulldog is much faster and I am able to produce around $150/hr when I am making custom for other setters. Here is another junky video from a week or two ago.

Finishing custom bullnose. I use the following. enrich N seal for stone and polished porcelain. White, almond, tan grey rustolium epoxy for base color. Some of the stone look spray paint to do splatter Im not a super fan of it. grout colors for with a tooth brush for spatter is what i like better, I have a full spectrum of Tec colors.
 

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