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Preserving the Past
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have to start thinking about how to go about cutting the top rail of these balcony railings so that the rail (1') fits over the top of the cap of the balustrades (shown w/no primer yet).

My plan was to make a jig for the rail that would allow me to cut the rail at the caps angle, 9 deg. The problem is that I can't find a finish saw that is larger that 24". The best I can come up with is this thing; http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=03P52&FamilyID=3092
I'm not to sure if this would cut clean enough for my needs. Any one have one of these? Can you get a clean cut?

Here's the pic's of the rail and balustrade caps. Maybe someone has a better idea?

Thanks
 

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Ask bass!

I'd make a router jig using guide rails at your 9 degrees. Then a really big plate for the router. Could take more time to set up the jig than it took you to make that beautiful cap. I'll bet Bass has done goofier things than this. Hope he's got time to offer a suggestion.

MIKE
 

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Preserving the Past
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I'd make a router jig using guide rails at your 9 degrees. Then a really big plate for the router. Could take more time to set up the jig than it took you to make that beautiful cap. I'll bet Bass has done goofier things than this. Hope he's got time to offer a suggestion.

MIKE
Me to! I'm not sue if I could find a 12" long router bit.
 

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Capra Aegagrus
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Hmm. Stoopid maybe, but trying to think outside the box. How about cutting the cap rather than the rail? That way you wouldn't have feather edges.
 

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Preserving the Past
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hmm. Stoopid maybe, but trying to think outside the box. How about cutting the cap rather than the rail? That way you wouldn't have feather edges.
Some of the rails and caps were done that way. I think the one's in the picture above were done that way and they all tended to open up and let water into the balustrades and then rotted them out.

The one's that were coped held up much better so we want to go that way this time around. It's much more forgiving too when things start moving due to change in season.
 

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I would like to offer up a scientific approach to that cut, however i would probably end up using my circular saw and my belt sander, the first few would be a little slow going, by the last one i would be a champ, G
 

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Preserving the Past
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I would like to offer up a scientific approach to that cut, however i would probably end up using my circular saw and my belt sander, the first few would be a little slow going, by the last one i would be a champ, G
No doubt that a belt sander will be used in the "fine tuning":shifty: no matter how we end up cutting it.
 

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Still have all my fingers
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I'd make a router jig using guide rails at your 9 degrees. Then a really big plate for the router. Could take more time to set up the jig than it took you to make that beautiful cap. I'll bet Bass has done goofier things than this. Hope he's got time to offer a suggestion.

MIKE

This sounds the best way to me :thumbsup:. Build a cradle to hold your piece upside down and run the rails up @ 9 deg. I would use a plunge router to save some time.
 

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Artisan Carpentry
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Just in case you don't have the bucks for the Mafell band saw... build a router jig with sloped guide rails at 9* spaced the width of the rail to be milled. Set the rail in the jig upside down. Make a large base for the router that is just over 3x's the width of the rail and add curbs that hang down from the router base and keep the router on the guide rails. This will allow the router base to move back and forth on the guide rails as you plow out the cut area.

Clear as mud?

Looks like Mike and Berg already have you set up.
 
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