Your best bet would be to do a sample piece first. Depending on how your sample turns out (if you like the look or not) go from there. Pine is porous so you may want to start with a sealer - of course this will mean your stain will be lighter so you will have to tone it afterwards to get the right colour. Seal coats should go over your stain once it's dry followed by topcoats. Make sure all your products are compatible with eachother so you don't have issues. Talk to a cabinet supply store in your area they should be able to assist you with the right products for your door.

 

Use a wood conditioner first, then follow up with the stain and a good ext grade poly, GMOD

 

Do not use Poly (I have never seen ext. grade) if it will be exposed to sun light.
Use marine varnish instead.
Poly will not stand up to the UV rays given off by the sun. It will become opaque,brittle and crack.

Edit: Pine is quite soft so I would say the marine varnish is a must. Two or three coats should provide a strong "shell".

 

Do not use Poly (I have never seen ext. grade) if it will be exposed to sun light.
Use marine varnish instead.
Poly will not stand up to the UV rays given off by the sun. It will become opaque,brittle and crack.


http://www.deftfinishes.com/Trade/Products/details.cfm?ProductID=5


I used this once, i have not seen it in a couple of years, GMOD, it was used on the Spaceshuttle, a few UV rays there i bet:laughing:

 

Stain

I prefer Cabots stain, also wood recommend to pre stain the door. As far as a exterior varnish Sikkens makes the best product out there. It is a 3 step process and is expensive but in the long run you are better off.

 

I have gotten pretty good results taking a wet towel and moistening the pine wood first. This makes the grain swell. Then use a latex stain while the wood is still a little damp. Try it on a sample piece first.

 

Poly is no good for outdoor. You can also try spar urethane for a outdoor finish also. we refinished a door a few months back with that.

 

sand/condition/stain/Mcclosky SMV

IMO , sand the entire door to 180 in stages, than I would Use a wood Condition before you do anything else so you avoid blotchy areas in the staining-The grain structure is not as dense as hard woods and a conditioner will give you a better even application.

Stain- Mohawk/NGR and for the clear finish
Clear coat -Mcclosky manOwar Spar Marine Varnish

Good luck! :thumbsup:

 

Yes, but his question was...can he use deck stain? I wonder if a clear coat will adhere to it?

 

Thanks for all the input guys (and gals!)
The stain I had left over from my fence was already tinted the color I would like, but if this type of stain is not good on a pine door I will certainly get a fresh gallon of whatever is recommended.
So if I understand correctly I should first use some kind of wood conditioner, then the stain, then a marine spar varnish.
Someone mentioned pre-staining the door . How exactly does that work?

 

Deck stain,

If he wants to -however decks and doors are not the same applications - It is the top coat that will keep the tone of the stain -UV factor- not the stain itself. Personally-I think he would get better results using a good stain meant for this type of application. I wouldn't use deck stain on a door ,an alcohol based NGR / die or rubbing stain is what I would use. :thumbsup:
Brian

 

A transparent exterior stain will work fine on the pine door, and since it absorbs into the wood more than it lays on top, I'd imagine a good Spar varnish (marine varnish) would adhere just fine. A wood conditioner is more or less a clear stain base meant to pre-fill the thirsty pores of the pine that cause the blotchy-ness.

We used to stain front doors on these big contemporary McMansions around here without any further topcoat. If the door was exposed to direct sunlight and rain, it would be ready for another coat in just a year or two.

 

Jer,,

Pre-staining:definition- wood conditioning- that's all,:thumbsup: