I know there are a lot of hammer threads on here, but I have a really specific question that I haven't been able to get anywhere with. For school next year I need a 22oz.-28oz. smooth face framing hammer, the first one that came to mind was estwing but I was wondering if you guys could throw some other options out their that fit this criteria that you have either liked or hated!
Grant9454
skip estwing imo if you like your elbow
try this one: http://www.toolbarn.com/vaughan-103-01.html
quality hammer with a wood handle, not outrageously expensive and made in u.s.a :thumbsup:
try this one: http://www.toolbarn.com/vaughan-103-01.html
quality hammer with a wood handle, not outrageously expensive and made in u.s.a :thumbsup:
I was looking at the Dewalt hammers the other day at home depot and I really liked the feel but the school is strict with the hammer being at least 22 oz. I had never heard of vaughn until I started this search but Ive read a lot of good reviews about them, have you had good luck with them? That hammer looks like a perfect fit!
If you're about to enter the trades, a 22 oz. wood handle "framer" will suffice.
You may find the need to get your "angst" out with a 25 or 28 oz. (if they even make them anymore ), steel or wood handle.
Don't fight that urge.
Bang around awhile with those and see how they feel.
...weighing you down throughout the day
...shock absorption ? (what is that?)
When you learn to drive a framing nail, it will matter very little about the hammer head ounce.
(sometimes you have to smash a few fingers and bend a few nails before you learn how to swing a hammer.)
FTR:
14 oz. Stiletto smooth face with a wood handle;
But I'm a remodeler that bounces back and forth between framing and trim.
This handles both well.
You may find the need to get your "angst" out with a 25 or 28 oz. (if they even make them anymore ), steel or wood handle.
Don't fight that urge.
Bang around awhile with those and see how they feel.
...weighing you down throughout the day
...shock absorption ? (what is that?)
When you learn to drive a framing nail, it will matter very little about the hammer head ounce.
(sometimes you have to smash a few fingers and bend a few nails before you learn how to swing a hammer.)
FTR:
14 oz. Stiletto smooth face with a wood handle;
But I'm a remodeler that bounces back and forth between framing and trim.
This handles both well.
First off, what is this "school" you speak of? Is it an apprenticeship training program or something of the like?
If so, they "recommend" a 16-20 oz straight claw. That's about it.
Secondly, it's your arm, your hammer, you're swinging it, not anyone else. I'd get what I wanted. But if rules is rules and you're one to follow them, get what they tell you to.
As for some actual help, look toward Dalluge or Vaughan. Maybe even Stiletto. But I think it would be tough to find a 22-28 oz smooth faced hammer. Most of them at that weight are geared toward framing with milled faces.
If so, they "recommend" a 16-20 oz straight claw. That's about it.
Secondly, it's your arm, your hammer, you're swinging it, not anyone else. I'd get what I wanted. But if rules is rules and you're one to follow them, get what they tell you to.
As for some actual help, look toward Dalluge or Vaughan. Maybe even Stiletto. But I think it would be tough to find a 22-28 oz smooth faced hammer. Most of them at that weight are geared toward framing with milled faces.
When I did the school portion of my apprenticeship you pretty much didn't need any of the tools they listed... The teacher said the list is basically there because you should have these tools at that point in your career. It would be beyond ridiculous for them not to accept a proper framing hammer under 22oz I bet they just don't want you showing up with a 16 ounce curved claw finishing hammer...
Thanks for the responses so far guys, the school I'm going to is just a technical college with a carpentry program its not the union apprenticeship program. As much as I would love to take a look at the stiletto hammers they are a little to expensive right now and would kill my tool budget. The vaughn hammers look really good and I also came a cross a Hart smooth face framer with a steel handle that looks a little more comfortable than the estwing.
I love these hammer debates-----a hammer is like a tennis racket or a golf club---
The 'best' is what works well for your arm and swing----buy a good quality one to start and then see how it works for you---what is perfect for one carpenter might not be the best for you----
Back in the old hand nailing days, I used a Vaugn---worked well with my style--now? My hammer is used mostly to move things around and the air nailer drives the nails--
The 'best' is what works well for your arm and swing----buy a good quality one to start and then see how it works for you---what is perfect for one carpenter might not be the best for you----
Back in the old hand nailing days, I used a Vaugn---worked well with my style--now? My hammer is used mostly to move things around and the air nailer drives the nails--
I would go wood handle. The head weight is the same, but the overall hammer weight will be less than steel or fiberglass, so the swing will be more effective for driving a framing nail, and you arm will like it more too.
Smooth face hammers are not meat tenderizers like the milled faces are, so they won't tear the skin off as easily, but they are not flat faced either. The convex smooth surface of the smooth faced hammer will make contact with the nail head in one small area and stick to it as well as any new milled face hammer. The face will not be damaged from using hardened concrete nails like the milled face is. And once a milled face is worn smooth, it works like it was originally smooth anyway. If the hammer is making contact with the nail-head in more than one spot the sticking power is reduced exponentially by the increased striking area of the head face and is more likely to slide off and hit the wrong nail. So the transition time from new to worn smooth is the most dangerous to your fingers with the milled face hammer.
Also, a good technique to learn is to set the nails with a light glancing blow, or a shallow eliptical swat, that moves the hammer head away from the thumb and fingers during/after the strike. I find that holding the nail point off the surface a little helps set the nail also, by giving it a little punch speed before it meets the surface. The added space provides a little more overall escape room for those fond fingers and the smooth face will not grab the nail head sideways on the starter swat.
Keep a rhythm too. Three swings on a framing nail is not bad, two is better, and a light to-the-side tap to keep time while fumbling the next nail into position. The sound of money making framing music, nails a'popping and saws' a singing. :thumbup:
Cuss'n yo hammer, is not part of the song. :no:
Good luck in school!
...
Smooth face hammers are not meat tenderizers like the milled faces are, so they won't tear the skin off as easily, but they are not flat faced either. The convex smooth surface of the smooth faced hammer will make contact with the nail head in one small area and stick to it as well as any new milled face hammer. The face will not be damaged from using hardened concrete nails like the milled face is. And once a milled face is worn smooth, it works like it was originally smooth anyway. If the hammer is making contact with the nail-head in more than one spot the sticking power is reduced exponentially by the increased striking area of the head face and is more likely to slide off and hit the wrong nail. So the transition time from new to worn smooth is the most dangerous to your fingers with the milled face hammer.
Also, a good technique to learn is to set the nails with a light glancing blow, or a shallow eliptical swat, that moves the hammer head away from the thumb and fingers during/after the strike. I find that holding the nail point off the surface a little helps set the nail also, by giving it a little punch speed before it meets the surface. The added space provides a little more overall escape room for those fond fingers and the smooth face will not grab the nail head sideways on the starter swat.
Keep a rhythm too. Three swings on a framing nail is not bad, two is better, and a light to-the-side tap to keep time while fumbling the next nail into position. The sound of money making framing music, nails a'popping and saws' a singing. :thumbup:
Cuss'n yo hammer, is not part of the song. :no:
Good luck in school!
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