You want the best but want cheap, that doesn't work.

 

So anyone who is budget conscious is cheap? I could use titanium. I use this forum to try and get ideas from others. I agree that a lot of the time you get what you pay for, but that isn't always the case. Plastic work boxes for electrical work are a fraction of the cost of the metal. They work perfectly well, are quicker and me (and every electrician I know) see no reason to spend the extra money and make more work.

 

You think felt isn't the best but what is recommended might be too pricey. There's a difference between being budget conscious and sacrificing quality. I'm not suggesting using the most expensive, how do you know titanium wouldn't have an adverse effect.

Plastic boxes versus metal boxes doesn't even relate.

 

Bearskins are .45 each.

One roll of painted coil could give you 360 pieces of flashing at 5"x8". That's .20 each or better.

Not sure how much cheaper you really want to be. Felt is around .02 each.

 

I seal the ends and put Grace underlayment under the joint, about a 12" x 12" piece. I leave about a 1/16" gap at the joint. The underlayment will shed the water just fine because there is 6 to 7" of underlayment stapled above the joint.

 

Thank you. I appreciate the constructive reply. Since I am using Grace Syn 15 on the roof, it saves not having to buy other material.

 

Use the aluminum you tore off the last reside job. That's basically free minus of course you won't get paid on the scrap. Honestly, sounds like a nickel holding up a dollar question, there are better ways to increase your margins.

 

I would not use any product that breaks down from UV rays. We use painted aluminum coil stock.

 

Can I ask why you don't like felt? I use 20minuite Tar paper and think it works just fine, plus there's no worries about colour matching since black is basically just a shadow.

 

Tar paper breaks down in sunlight. It'll take a while, but eventually it'll wear a hole.

 

30# felt splines is probably the best you can do for cheap. Tons of houses from 100 years ago with wood siding are still standing and had felt or rosin paper behind siding and no splines at siding butt joints. In my experience, I have never removed any kind of horizontal lap siding where butt joints in the field have contributed to any kind of water intrusion where sheathing needed to be replaced.

Make your own from black/brown coil stock leftovers is 2nd cheapest. Have the low guy bend up a few during slow/down time.

 

Thing is most all of them 100 year old houses had the butts joints tight with no gap. Face nailed so yes the papar lasted forever. Unlike today where there is anywhere from nothing to 1/4 or more .

 

we color mach painted aluminum coil stock cement siding dose shrink who wants to see black lines all over the place

 

^^^^^^^the wining answer is.....^^^^^^^^

Anyone NOT using color match is rolling the dice. I had a CertainTeed failure a few years ago. The only reason it didn't look as bad as it could have was the color match tin.

My only material I'll ever use.
Plus you need it for the proper flashing around window and roofs.

 

I use vinyl roll flashing. I use a piece about 5 inches wide by 10 inches tall.

 

30 lb felt done...

 

We use 26ga sheet metal chopped to fit what ever profile we need. It's not very expensive.
Using paper is nonsense.