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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's the general go to for an easy to use flashing and patch for commercial metal roofs? Apparently we are using about every product out there depending on who goes up on a roof and we need to stop that crap and standardize on something. I have one guy who loves that flex seal from tv another who uses zip liquid flash and another who just uses silicon then subs using whatever they feel like if they even flash their penetrations. I've found turbo poly seal online that looks really good and I like that it uses a kerdi band type fleece but can't determine if its legit or not. We're mainly making penetrations for kitchen exhaust fans, plumbing vent stacks, and electrical that we need to flash and water proof.

All our jobs are in north texas so sun and uv is a problem here. Is turbo poly seal with the silver coat legit? Zip liquid flash with some white paint or silver coat on top? Gaf acrylic flashing with a fleece strip of some kind?
 

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When a metal roof is properly installed, it will last a lifetime (generally 40-60 years). However, that can all change if a step is skipped or the wrong product is used during the installation process. Though metal roof sealant seems like a minor part of a roof system, it is an extra line of defense against water intrusion. Something as simple as using sealant can be what ultimately protects from a metal roof leak needing repairs.

more information:- plumbriteplumbing.com
 

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Lack of UV protectant means Flex seal will crack and dry out in a short time frame.
We use peel and seal by MFM on most new applications.
We use EternaBond for repairs of existing applications.
Masterseal Sonolastic for any "caulking" needed in these areas.
 

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Water can't get through a sheet of metal. It can only get through at laps between sheets, holes in the metal, poorly installed penetrations, poorly detailed flashings, etc. If the metal and flashing work is done correctly, very little sealant is even needed. Concentrate first on doing good sheet metal work. Smearing some goop over a leak just conceals the problem for a while longer.

Most metal roofing manufacturers offer seminars and product training which can be very beneficial to field personnel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
To clarify, we aren't doing the roof installs. These are existing buildings we just do the tenant finish out in and are making holes in existing roofs for exhaust fan installs vents etc. that we need to make sure are properly water proofed and sealed.
 

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To clarify, we aren't doing the roof installs. These are existing buildings we just do the tenant finish out in and are making holes in existing roofs for exhaust fan installs vents etc. that we need to make sure are properly water proofed and sealed.
I need a photo of your exhaust fan penetration to assist you
 

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To clarify, we aren't doing the roof installs. These are existing buildings we just do the tenant finish out in and are making holes in existing roofs for exhaust fan installs vents etc. that we need to make sure are properly water proofed and sealed.
Small penetrations such as vertical plumbing vents, furnace flues, etc. are typically done with Dek Tite Neoprene boots. Larger penetrations for things like; HVAC units, rooftop exhaust fans, skylights, etc. are typically are done using roof curbs. Every metal roof manufacturer has preferred ways that they want you to do penetrations while maintaining weathertightness. If a roof is under warranty and you do a penetration incorrectly, you void the warranty.

Get yourself educated on the various methods of doing this stuff correctly. KCC Manufacturing, L&M Curbs, R&S Manufacturing, etc. are all good sources for curbs. Dynamic Fastener is a great source for Dek Tites and all the misc. fasteners and specialty items. These places have personnel on hand that can guide you through what is needed to do a correct penetration. None of them will suggest smearing goop around the edges.
 
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