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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello to all of you, I'm bidding for a renovation of 10000 sqft of a wooden flooring in a Castle. I would like to have your opinion about the best finish to use and also I will have to give a trainning about the cleaning. I will probably have a contract of maintenance once a year. So many finish on the market. The floor now is wax and check the picture.

 

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I'm not the right guy to answer your question, but holy cow, what a place.
Is it going to be a private residence?
Please keep the picures coming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Yes , private residence. 1768 year of construction. the roof / bricks works has been done last year, for the moment the electrical works are getting done together with the rendering of the wall. Next the carpenters will get in, for the renovation of the 450doors / windows / wall / it's so big that I prefer taking the floor only. Will keep sending the pictures if I get this job.
 

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Hello to all of you, I'm bidding for a renovation of 10000 sqft of a wooden flooring in a Castle. I would like to have your opinion about the best finish to use and also I will have to give a trainning about the cleaning. I will probably have a contract of maintenance once a year. So many finish on the market. The floor now is wax and check the picture.
Best finish would depend on what they want the floor to look like, how long they want it to last, hiw long you have to work, the ambient weather conditions, wether they want some sort of historically accurate finish, the amount of odor the client will tolerate and the layout of the rooms.

Need more info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I 'm thinking about 1 coat of sanding primer + 2 coats of wax. / but the maintenance will be tough.

1st possibility / floor 1 / 2 / 3 / 1 coat of primer + 2 coats of BONA TRAFFIc

Ground floor / 1 coat of primer or sealer + 2 coats of wax.

2nd proposition:

All Bona Traffix every where.

3 proposition

All floors finish with a POLY SOLID Blanchon.com / use for basketball flooring but in mat finish.

What other proposition , I will do a sample in a small room of about 150 sqft, divide the finish into 3 parts in the room and let them decide. I think that is the best way to go.
 

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i think you should do sealer and 2 oil wax..

thats would be most natural looking and period specific.

you can do the buffing and reapplication every couple years or as needed.
easy touch ups for scratches spotting etc..
 

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Keep in mind that people with that amount of money may prefer more maintenance to get their desired look. There will be a property manager on staff and maintaining the wax may become continued work for you.

Just explain each option in detail and let the owner decide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
In the book of charges, the varnish containing acide is not allowed.
I prefer the oil wax too, can I put it directly, I never use any sealer before applying
the oil wax, a nitro sanding sealer is ok,? which brand you advice. Tomorrow I finalizing the estimate and will be sending it.
Thanks a lot for the respond.
 

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In the book of charges, the varnish containing acide is not allowed.
I prefer the oil wax too, can I put it directly, I never use any sealer before applying
the oil wax, a nitro sanding sealer is ok,? which brand you advice. Tomorrow I finalizing the estimate and will be sending it.
Thanks a lot for the respond.

I believe the blanchon you use should be ok..,you can also get their associated oil waxes..I was on their site the other day and they do make it..so the system would be compatible.

you can also get poloplaz..i believe that is a french product..I used it once on a antiqued French Oak Job I did
 

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In the book of charges, the varnish containing acide is not allowed.
I prefer the oil wax too, can I put it directly, I never use any sealer before applying
the oil wax, a nitro sanding sealer is ok,? which brand you advice. Tomorrow I finalizing the estimate and will be sending it.
Thanks a lot for the respond.
yes..I would use the sealer..the oil wax alone wont be sufficient protection nor a good maintainable pallet..


the advantage to this is considerable..ease of application..wont have to worry about delivering perfect finishes on 10,000 sf for this type of clientele..

sped of application yet doing 3 processes that are quick.. big money..

work in sections and have it all come out identical..these things you really need to consider on a project like this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes I do, have been working with Blancho for the last + - 18 yrs. Never had any issue with their products, they do only one thing, finishing for timber. thank you very much to all of you, now just cross the fingers...
 

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I've always tried to use a finish on historic or antique floors that would look proper to the era. That being said hard wax oils not only look the part but are very durable and easy to touch up and maintain. Today's oils are state of the art finishes that wear very well. I personally would never apply a modern surface building urethane finish on an historic wood floor. There are several good ones to choose from depending on your location, here are a few. OSMO Polyx, Rubio Monocoat, Pallmann Magic Oil 2K, Eukula and Woca. These are all designed for heavy residential to commercial wear standards. All are very low to 0 voc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes the oil finish as OSMO POLYX would be fine, but only on the ground floor, since it's in oak. The 1 / 2 / 3 other floors are in a pine family ( Oregon pine I think, these are not good for oil or wax, varnish poly is best on these floors.Do someone aver oiled pine timber?
 
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