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Maker of Fine Sawdust
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just used it on some shutters I built. Sprayed it in my spray room through a pressure pot gun. I thinned it 8% to get good atomization. Great coverage and very little grain raising. It dried pretty fast. I had 19 shutters to do and by the time I finished the last one I was able to sand the first one and it sanded to a nice dry powder. Very impressed with it. Usually I use fresh start Alkyd.

Anyone else try this? Any comments about it?
 

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Maker of Fine Sawdust
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The one I am using says it is a stain killer. It says you might have to do two coats to get rid of bad bleed through, but it does say it is a stain killer. I am using it on Spanish Cedar, so far no bleed through. Only been a few days though, and the wood wasn't releasing pitch either.
 

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Curmudgeon
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11,706 Posts
I'd love to hear how it works
over time.
I'm afraid to try any waterborne primers
since I've had some kind of problem
with every one so far.
I like the idea of them, just been burned
too many times.
 

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Maker of Fine Sawdust
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What kind of problems we talking about?
 

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Curmudgeon
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What kind of problems we talking about?
Bleeding, flaking, peeling.....
pretty much what you'd get
with no primer.

I'm not knocking the BM,
just not anxious to be a
crash test dummy again. :laughing:
 

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Administrator
Maker of Fine Sawdust
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I didn't know I was priming your shutters :laughing:
 

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Maker of Fine Sawdust
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
The paint that the HO picked out was Sherwin Williams Duration, I had MoorGard® 100% Acrylic Low Lustre Latex House Paint speced out in my contract but she wanted the SW color and the formula BM had didn't matche the color on the card. SO she wanted the SW to make sure the color was correct. She paid for the paint instead of me, so what am I gonna say? I know it was a quality paint, not some Baer crap :laughing:. I have heard good things about Duration [here]. I went to the SW outlet to pick up 2 gallons and asked the guy about the specs, specifically for spraying. It is listed as a 7 mil thick wet coat, 2.8 mil dry. Holy crap, talk about thick. The Ben Moore is speced out at 2.8mil wet and 1.6 mil dry. The guy boasted how it covered better than the Ben Moore. Gee, I should hope so, at 250% thicker application it better.

Well, I put it in my pressure cup gun, thinned 8% and it is still so thick it won't spray with a nice atomization. You gotta remember I am a finisher, not a painter. I sprayed the backs of the 2 small shutters and let them sit for a bit. It wouldn't lay out smooth. So I through in another 8% and tried again. Played with the gun a bit and got it pretty good. I doubt I put it down at 7 mil, but it is possible. It was pretty thick. Laid out nice.

This was just the backs, and they will never be seen again. The fronts will get two coats. Tonight I'll spray the fronts with the first coat and tomorrow the second - then vacation in RI for a week. They should be plenty dry by then.
 

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I don't like the acrylic fresh start, Ive had adhesion problems with it, perhaps it was a bad batch but I can't afford to find out
 

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Maker of Fine Sawdust
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Did you sand the primer before you top coated, or just put the paint on without sanding?
 

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Store Owner
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83 Posts
If people have problems with primer...typically its self inflicted. The substrate needs to be clean, dry, chalk, and mildew free. New wood needs to be sanded...must be sanded. Not sanded with 400, just enough to break any glazing, and open the grain. 80-100 grit is usually fine.

Yeah, duration is thicker, compare spread rates too. Its roughly half what Moorgard or Aura is.
 

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Back from the dead...
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6,646 Posts
Bleeding, flaking, peeling.....
pretty much what you'd get
with no primer.

I'm not knocking the BM,
just not anxious to be a
crash test dummy again. :laughing:
Bleeding can happen with all waterborne primers. Really depends on the substrate you are going over. Flaking and peeling are usually due to operator error. See below.

If people have problems with primer...typically its self inflicted. The substrate needs to be clean, dry, chalk, and mildew free. New wood needs to be sanded...must be sanded. Not sanded with 400, just enough to break any glazing, and open the grain. 80-100 grit is usually fine.
:thumbsup:
It's all I use. Have been for years with no problems.
It's B M's best latex primer.
:thumbsup:
 

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Curmudgeon
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11,706 Posts
Bleeding can happen with all waterborne primers. Really depends on the substrate you are going over. Flaking and peeling are usually due to operator error. See below.


:thumbsup:

:thumbsup:
Hmmm, don't usually sand
old window muttons and sash,
I'll admit.
But the same procedures seem to
produce better results with oil.
 

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If people have problems with primer...typically its self inflicted. The substrate needs to be clean, dry, chalk, and mildew free. New wood needs to be sanded...must be sanded. Not sanded with 400, just enough to break any glazing, and open the grain. 80-100 grit is usually fine.

Yeah, duration is thicker, compare spread rates too. Its roughly half what Moorgard or Aura is.
Nope... the primer went over a sanded clean surface, imo a primer should do better than that! Don't get me wrong I like BM products just not this one!
 

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paper hanger,painter
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916 Posts
Bleeding can happen with all waterborne primers. Really depends on the substrate you are going over. Flaking and peeling are usually due to operator error. See below.


:thumbsup:

:thumbsup:
I hope that poor boy does not grow up having to wear that hard hat:w00t:

He is cute though, must take about 99% from his mother.:laughing:
 

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Store Owner
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83 Posts
Nope... the primer went over a sanded clean surface, imo a primer should do better than that! Don't get me wrong I like BM products just not this one!

Has to be a moisture issue. If something peels like that and was prepared properly, the only reason left is moisture.

On a side note, try Sikkens Rubbol DEK (oil) or Rubbol Solid DEK ( latex). If you have problem areas ie. window sills, this product is amazing for them. It uses microporous technology, it allows moisture to pass through the film resisting peeling. You don't prime with this product. Prep as normal, then 2 coats.
 

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Has to be a moisture issue. If something peels like that and was prepared properly, the only reason left is moisture.

On a side note, try Sikkens Rubbol DEK (oil) or Rubbol Solid DEK ( latex). If you have problem areas ie. window sills, this product is amazing for them. It uses microporous technology, it allows moisture to pass through the film resisting peeling. You don't prime with this product. Prep as normal, then 2 coats.
Nah... no moisture involved, just failed badly. Since it gets so many good reviews perhaps it was bad batch
 

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Store Owner
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Nah... no moisture involved, just failed badly. Since it gets so many good reviews perhaps it was bad batch
Were they stained before? I know when homeowners use products like Pledge on their wood, it can cause this. I've also known people to Pledge painted trim and similar surfaces....I wonder if your problem wasn't caused by this. Just food for thought. :shifty:
 
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