This is pressure treated that got skinned with composite, but it's the same concept.

 

I think you could get away with 1/2" deep(maybe 3/4"), every 1-1/2".

Just makes sure all your kerfs are square. I used a square on all my kerf lines. Otherwise it won't bend correctly.

 

My approach for building in the radius is to build up 1/4 '' rips to the 1 1/2'' frame width with clamps and titebond 111.

Cutting in kerf always seemed to be an invitation for rot and stress.

John, www.deckmastersllc.com

 

keft is the easy way. building up with titebond is the hard way but way better product.
Here in bc the keft rots very fast. I love it :thumbup:

 

My suggestion would be to use 2 layers of 1x material glued with Titebond 3.

 

With a curve that slight 1'' would most likely be fine.

Good to see another OKC Guy !

J.

 

I've done it many times, usually building up with layers. Thickness depends upon the radius you are bending it to.

TB3 would be great, but I find that it skins over too fast. I usually use Epoxy, by West Systems.

 

I've done it many times, usually building up with layers. Thickness depends upon the radius you are bending it to.

TB3 would be great, but I find that it skins over too fast. I usually use Epoxy, by West Systems.

Why wouldn't you get guys to do your stuff for you, and not retire. Once you have the knowledge to make stuff like that it's a marketable skill.

 

Your right about TB 111 it has to be worked real fast to do stuff like that.

I usually have a few hired guns helping when I do jobs like the ones on my site.

John. www.deckmastersllc.com

 

So it does seem like kerf cuts would work. I talked to someone in person and he suggested I resaw the redwood 2x8 into two or three pieces then laminate them. I am leaning toward kerf cutting if only because it is more streamlined. The plan is to put horizontal blocks between the joists cut to the contour of the curve for more support and cutting into redwood would not expose a less treated core of PT. Although the railing for the curved section won't come until a couple days later, I am planning to screw and bend couple 1x4 planks on the inside of the railing posts to support 2x2 balusters. Do people think the 1x4's would cooperate, even over time? Any tips on how to secure the 2x2's without too many screw heads facing the interior?

Mike, were there any seams along your curve and if so, how did you join them? Also, did you use a router to flush cut the deck boards?

 

Here's how I cut radiuses.

 

Here's the thread on it

http://www.contractortalk.com/f50/gnarly-cut-around-pool-coping-149800/

 

These may or may not help you with your railing. The posts were capped with finials.

 

I've done it both ways. Like Mike I lay it out with cardboard just like the k=top guys lay their patterns out to be cut in the shop. I prefer layering over kerf. If done properly both will last a long time. No need to cut in pieces on radius you described. Over time this will fail faster. Tight bond with a notched trowel for layering and plenty of clamps just like a bent rail for interior stairs. Again I would not cut in pieces. If your going to kerf 1/2" is plenty with bend you describe. Like Mike said use your square and space evenly so you don't break it and order an extra just in case since you have never done it.

 

Forgot to add as far as kerfs I would go 3=4 inches on spacing. If you go closer than that it may snap depending on bend. I would order a few extra 2x8s to practice with before install. Yea it's a little more but better to snap one of those than your finish piece. Remember cedar/redwood is softer than pine so be careful and yes you can do it.

 

I've used 1/2" PVC pipe to get and oblong that followed a sidewalk.

 

It is also possible to simply bend a wet 2x12 PT.

With an curve that slight and long this would work fine.

John www.deckmastersllc.com

 

We get people ask to have radius decks, as long as we give it away, they want it. Soon as they have to pay a premium the interest wanes; immediately.

 

Really Steve, after the set up is complete, the clamps are bought/made , and a little experience is had.

It's not that much more trouble/time than standard.

J.

 

Really Jon, after you buy a bulldozer, and a dump truck, and a loader, it's not much more work to be an excavator.

Having the tools to do the job correctly doesn't mean that now we need to "give it away"?

 

It's all in knowing how Hombre.

Comparing dirt work with wood bending is a big stretch but I understand your frame work of reference .

J.

 

You must be misunderstanding me, we have bent joists, railing, fascia and so on, people were wanting radius decks as long as we gave it away. we did 2 to get the pics, even installed radius edge w/bent deck boards to match the radius in the show room on a 900 sq. ft. trex origins deck, put a pond in front of it, had bushes, so on. Set the whole thing up real nice.

Once we started to charge for it, the interest went away.

Which is what I was saying.

Do people really pay money for this stuff, or are you guys giving it away?

 

Im the same way ill bid a little lower to get that job with killer pics.

Its like some one said on this site. If you want maple crown moulding done to perfection and cheap... its just not happening sister.

 

Folks do pay for work in the radius Yes.

John

 

the fine citizens over here don't

 

I beg to differ

 

Mike, I am curious why you had to make a template out of 1/4" material to run the router bit against instead of simply running a 2" flush-cutting bit with a bearing on end against the curved rim joist already present? Would it be too much to ask of a double bladed bit and rather more of a job for a spiral bit?

 

If you'll look closely that rim is far from an acceptable guide. It's very uneven, and not round. The picture I posted at the start of this thread with the kerfs is another deck. I did run the router along the rim on that one. With a bottom bearing. With that said in hindsight I would've made a 3/8" template on top. Simply because the radius came out so much cleaner and smoother. :thumbsup:

 

not enough for me to do, when there is so much other better work, and you can go bolt your railing to all the kerf cut bonds you want.
you'll pay for it in the long run.

 

its pretty easy if you kerf the handrail tho :thumbsup:

 

I am planning to simply vertical block behind the kerffed rim joist as rail post backing with 8-9 inch through bolts.