Between 2 brilliant minds, you both couldn't figure out that you need an architect or engineer?

 

The other guy is the one paying for the project. He is the landlord. I keep telling him to consult an architect or engineer, but he just won't, saying it's going to "cost him too much", saying it's "only a Tiny house". Moreover, he regularly declines my advice on which materials and building methods we should use for a safe building. So I told him I won't be held responsible for structural defects.

 

This is is why structural beams are set in beam pockets.

 

If it is just twisting then you will probably be fine.

Andy.

 

You should walk away from this until he is willing to do it the right way.

 

It"'s most likely caused by difference in width of beam members, maybe due to uneven shrinkage. You might add a bolted vertical 4x, lapped over the inside of post and beam. The bolts will draw straight, & then drive shims under beam to post area as you tighten bolts.

 

Not sure if a stint in carpentry school makes one a professional, and telling someone you won’t be responsible is meaningless.

Why are you using PT for the beams? Are they in contact with the ground?

Pictures are really going to help. Hard to say anything at this point.

 

More misuse of PT lumber

 

Why do you say that?

I spec PT lumber for all kinds of things including post-and-pier if the lumber is within 12" of the earth.

Andy.

 

I would suggest asking your friend to be put in his will but you'll probably just get a condemned tiny house.

 

This all sounds so simple, the everyman used to hack together cottages from kits between post WW2 and the 80s and a lot of those are still fine.

Throw a few random through bolts and home made 1/4" steel brackets etc and she ain't going nowhere. This is not rocket science.

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Most decks around here are built with PT, even if their 8 ft off the ground.


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Yards here don't spec out PT if above ground. Stain and seal lumber with tape on top surface.

 

See how different it is,, PT is all we use except for form work where it will come off and go away.

 

Decks and mud sills get PT here.

Studs in contact with concrete, like around a cutout.

Never use them for beams under a house.

 

We have bugs and micro stuff that will eat the wood.

 

👍

Yep. Way different conditions up here.

Even where I am in far northern Cali, and close to the coast, it won’t rain for 6 months straight. Not a drop.

Might get 150 inches in winter, but then it just shuts off. 👍 Dry as dust.

 

Why not P.T.? Does P.T. warp? I was told to use P.T. for any exterior application. I also saw the Perkins Builder Brothers build the same 2x12 PT beam for a tiny house on Youtube. It appears Youtube may actually not be the most reliable source of information.

Went back to the site today. Here are some pictures. An old man with some building experience told me I might be able to straighten this out with a jack and some heavy gauge "T" straps. Thoughts?

 

Youtube may actually not be the most reliable source of information.

😂😂😂😂


You have a lot of problems going on there.

That’s just real sloppy work.

What is that black bracket on the side of the joist? 😳 That ain’t a joist hanger.

Those braces are……. Well…….

 

And that beam hanger…….What happened there?

 

I don't think it's that big of an issue, sloppy sure but do we think that beam is just going to roll over with joists in between and a sheeted floor on top? Maybe straighten it with a rimboard/joist going beam to beam to cover the ends.

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This should be fine. 😳🙄

 

@JacquesFarouche


It is commendable that you are persuading this trade.

However, there is a way to go about it. You need a few years of hands on experience, working with a reputable builder.

Jumping into working on your own right out of some type of school is never a good idea.

Schooling is good, when coupled with actual work under an experienced teacher.

And YouTube is not a teacher.

Anyone can post anything on there, good or bad.

And no type of education, YouTube or school, can take the place of a good apprenticeship.

 

If you don't believe knowledge can be shared online, what exactly are you doing on an online forum?

 

If YouTube was around when I started and it was my teacher, I wouldn't have been in the trades very long.

 

Youtube is absolutely a valuable resource, used appropriately. You just have to be able to separate the wheat from the chaff, which admittedly can be a challenge at times. My son has done quite well with it in his handyman jobs. He's too independent to take advice from the old man.

 

How much a PT beam will twist has a lot to do with the species and of course the moisture content.


Mike.
___
[emoji631] [emoji631] [emoji631]

 

You can select PT SYP that will stay pretty straight, but you have to read the rings on all sides to understand what the grain is doing and what there is for reaction wood.

You wind up passing on a lot of wood.

The best thing to do is get it fixed in place so it can't move before it starts drying.

Or you can stack and stick it, and let it aur dry for a couple weeks or so. Just don't have it in the sun.

 

YouTube is great once you have a few years experience, so you can tell what's valuable and what's bogus.

Or, you can watch the big name videos on a topic.

 

YouTube is great once you have a few years experience, so you can tell what's valuable and what's bogus.

Also every region builds different. Learning from a good carpenter in your region is the only way to go.

 

We use doug fur and it's pretty good. It's all treated here on island. Not sure of the nailing up the 3 -2x12, why not just use a 4x12?

 

You can get 2X12 any where. If you can read the lumber, you can nail them up so twist in one counters twist in another. Same thing with cupping and bowing.