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It always goes like this in my world....

Plumber: tell me exactly were the finished floor will be.

Contractor: It will be right here, look I have it marked on the plate, I figured it all out adding the mud, thinset, and tile.

Plumber: Great, now go get coffee, I'll get it done.
 

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The Grand Wazoo
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Duravit makes several different styles of floor mount wall outlet toilets that might solve your problem, just saying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I don't think everyone ( Maybe me ) knows the situtation and there are no pics so let me try this .
Exactly what the problem was. With a combination of raising the floor with 3/8" sheet good before 1/2" Durock and thinset (talked HO out of wood) and shaving flange we made it work out. There is a transition at the door, just made a 8" threshold with a dado'd back and slid it in from hallway side over bathroom finished floor. Unsuspecting eye will never see transition.
 

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Goin' Down in Flames....
Highwayman
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Thanks for comng back and filling us in.

It's always nice to see how other Pro's dealt with a problem. :thumbsup:
 

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Exactly what the problem was. With a combination of raising the floor with 3/8" sheet good before 1/2" Durock and thinset (talked HO out of wood) and shaving flange we made it work out. There is a transition at the door, just made a 8" threshold with a dado'd back and slid it in from hallway side over bathroom finished floor. Unsuspecting eye will never see transition.
Thanksfor coming back... but I'm still confused....8" threshold... that's a step.

Just curious.

Best\\Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
3/4" Maple select board 8" wide. The dado made the part over the tile right around 3/8" but the nose over the hallway hardwood was still the full 3/4" thick.
 
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3/4" Maple select board 8" wide. The dado made the part over the tile right around 3/8" but the nose over the hallway hardwood was still the full 3/4" thick.
Duh on me....:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Thought you were talking a transition height....:laughing:
 

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All these plumbes in here and none of you have ever used this? You don't have to have the factory slip end of a connector to use this. You could cut your 3" or 4" connector off flush with the floor and this flange will slip down into the tee/90/coupling. The bottom of this piece is tapered, and it's got a rubber grommet that can slide up or down to adjust to the size you need.

The farther you push it in, the tighter it gets. Find the sweet spot, then screw it to the floor. I've used these on really old houses that have old lead flanges or broken cast iron flanges. Never had a leak.

Flange.JPG
 
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