You could use DensArmor for all walls and ceilings. Just use Kerdi in the wet areas to tiled. No faced batts necessary then.The tub will along the west, south and east walls.
Tub/shower area will be completely tiled.
The questions:
On this exterior wall that will be tiled...
- Insulation...craftfaced with a VB or not?
The tub/shower area will be totally tiled, - from my reading, DenShield seems to be the product of choice for this application....and has VB characteristics.
The bath is rather small, [5x8 w/o deduction for tub]....using 2 different products would probably result in excess waste/cost....in the long run cheaper to use 1 product ~ even if that product is more expensive.
True?
Floor to be tiled.
Is DenShield a suitable material for the tile?
Stick with the standard CBU?
If you use Kerdi, why can't you use DensArmor in wet areas? What do you use to waterproof wet areas then?Celtic no vapor barrier behing tiled areas in wet locations, remaining can have. You want to use Dense Shield not Dens Armor for tile. I use purple for the remaining areas. 5/8" on ceiling for 16" o/c or 1/2" if 12"centers.
The only exterior areas is the south wall and a small portion of the roof.....is a VB even necessary on interior walls?Celtic no vapor barrier behing tiled areas in wet locations, remaining can have.
That is generally my plan ~ unless there is reason [personal experience, preferences, codes?] not to.You want to use Dense Shield not Dens Armor for tile. I use purple for the remaining areas. 5/8" on ceiling for 16" o/c or 1/2" if 12"centers.
Vapor barrier on the warm side are the rules for us. Especially in a damp enviorment. Add a fan with a humidistat to run. Ideally they run long enough to clear the moisture. You dont put vapor retarder in tiled areas because the tile acts as a barrier. Double barriers trap moisture.The only exterior areas is the south wall and a small portion of the roof.....is a VB even necessary on interior walls?
You could probably use anything behind Kerdi since it decouples the two materials. I myself am less familar with the Kerdi system but should learn since it may become an industry standard. More time and more expense. The cement board requires waterproofing behind the board or a redguard protective on the surface.That is generally my plan ~ unless there is reason [personal experience, preferences, codes?] not to.
Purple is actually called XP mold resistant drywall. Look it up. They chemically treat the paper. I believe DensARMOR is supierior but it does cost more and requires more finishing. Its not must.If you use Kerdi, why can't you use DensArmor in wet areas? What do you use to waterproof wet areas then?
And why not use DensArmor instead of purple? Purple has paper, DensArmor doesn't. Paper = food for mold.
Maybe you should get new tile guys. Schluter products have been around since the 80's. Any tile setter that doesn't waterproof a wet location is plain irresponsible. There's no excuse for not educating one's self on new procedures. Waterproofing is not just an improvement, it's a necessary method to stop mold and rot.It may be an improvement over the various other substrates ~ but my tiles guys have never used these membranes systems
I found the trick is to primeThe purple board is easier to finish than the densarmor, for me at least, I just had a few issues with the fiberglass matting.....
I found the trick is to prime
with oil (CoverStain) and
½" nap roller.
Build your own texture to hide
their texture.
It even looks pretty damn nice
with semi gloss.
I won't argue the point about purple XP board. If it is truly mold resistant, fine. However, using paper and then treating it with chemicals or just using wallboard without paper seems like a no brainer to me. And I know first hand, it takes no extra prep work to finish off DensArmor. Prime & paint. Done.
Maybe you should get new tile guys. Schluter products have been around since the 80's. Any tile setter that doesn't waterproof a wet location is plain irresponsible. There's no excuse for not educating one's self on new procedures. Waterproofing is not just an improvement, it's a necessary method to stop mold and rot.
You do not use a vapor barrier behind Kerdi or other membranes. They are a vapor barrier and if you use an additional one behind them, you'll create a moisture sandwich.
You want a full-proof and easy way to construct a bathroom, use DensArmor, Kerdi and Kerdi-band with non-faced batts for insulation. What's easier than using only 1 type of wall material? For the floor, make sure it will structurally handle your tile installation (deflection), add exterior-glue plywood and then Ditra. Install a proper ventilation system.
That bathroom will stay mold and rot proof for a long-long time.
Yes, we have used Panasonic fans too. We recently switched to Nutone with the built-in humidistat. This is simply because we cannot get customers to actually use the fan all the time. This way, it goes on for them. Sucks but it seems the only way to get people to use them.On one other note, I have been using Panasonic exhaust fans for the last 4 years and they are outstanding! Definately the best quality fan I have seen on the market. They also provide a lot of information on the proper way to install the exhaust vent, something that is overlooked quite often.
