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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello again. Recently had a company come over and give an estimate on waterproofing our basement. Hit us to the tune of 23,000$ I said hell no. He wanted to install a 2nd sump pit and do an interior/exterior perimeter drain. Now I only have one wall causing issues. I asked why we can't just do an interior drain on that one wall to relieve pressure. This would be convenient because my sump put is along this wall. The way I see it we could just add the interior drain and dump into our existing pit. I need to also do some slight regrading to exterior of that wall and I want to add a "French drain" along that problem wall about 3' down against the wall itself. I figure some pipe with holes drilled and back filled with epa gravel will catch that surface water. Can anyone tell me if they have ever heard of someone doing an interior footer drain on just one wall to relieve that pressure.
3/4 of our basement is finished so we decided to remove a section of drywall and paneling for the two other corners of the basement. After doing so both corners looked dry as a bone and didn't seem to have any issues. I will include pics. But he kept useing his 10$ moisture meter placing it on the block wall/floor and reading high moisture. I'm no pro but that cheap meter same as my firewood meter would probably read high moisture on 99% of basements. Also behind finished sections is visqueen and styrofoam. Now behind the visqueen there is about 4-5 tiny tiny drops of moisture and he claims all this is a sure sign of footer failure. I do not think this is as bad as he makes it out to be. As I said only one wall/corner has an issue which is unfinished and is our utility room. Can anyone throw some advice my way on my current idea for a one wall fix. Thank you all again
Pics of bad wall and 2 opposite corners of walls that were covered. 2 other spots mid way between corner and wall were also removed showing no signs of moisture. All walls except problem wall all have dry grey regular good looking block

Also house was built in 79. Thought of another question. My sump pit currently has 2 drainage times in it. A solid PVC pipe which points directly toward foundation wall. The other is black abs perforated pipe. The black drain hardly ever has water coming out of it and when it does it barely trickles at all. Now the solid PVC flows a high amount when we are getting dumped on. Can anyone tell me where these or how these are run/function. Picture shows the only two pipes that discharge into the pit. Other ones are non function and just recessed capped from plastic pit
 

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Sounds expensive to me. I mean you could replace the half or the whole block foundation for that maybe.
 

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the solid pipe most likely goes to the drain tile on the outside of the foundation. the ABS is probably an interior tile already.

I would start at the exterior and make sure that downspouts discharge away from the house properly and that the grade is not low along the house, allowing water to pool along the house. foundation tile should only have to take care of ground water, not surface water, that should be taken care of by grading.

As for the condensation on the plastic, that is a sign of moisture migrating through the wall to a colder space (your basement) then condensation at the cold barrier (the plastic.

Excavating your exterior walls and installing waterproofing and a drainage plane would solve this. while you are there check your tile to be sure it is working.

Adding a run of tile on the inside of the wall, if there is none there will make a big difference. we have done this in basements where we run one or two walls and it solves the problem. drill holes through the wall right above the footing and insert plastic tubes to allow water to escape to the drain tile. these will be covered with concrete later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thankyou for replies. Re grading that side does need done. I am thinking of digging the first 3 ' down and if I find cracks I will follow them to footer depth and seal with hyd cement and cover with tar. If I do dig to footer level should I completely backfill with river and pea gravel all the way to surface? If I do a drainage tile should it be directly up against that block wall? Also I didn't know/think they did interior drains back In the 70s but I had no other explanation for that black abs in the crock. The solid PVC has a high flow rate during a good storm but the black never does
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
the solid pipe most likely goes to the drain tile on the outside of the foundation. the ABS is probably an interior tile already.

I would start at the exterior and make sure that downspouts discharge away from the house properly and that the grade is not low along the house, allowing water to pool along the house. foundation tile should only have to take care of ground water, not surface water, that should be taken care of by grading.

As for the condensation on the plastic, that is a sign of moisture migrating through the wall to a colder space (your basement) then condensation at the cold barrier (the plastic.

Excavating your exterior walls and installing waterproofing and a drainage plane would solve this. while you are there check your tile to be sure it is working.

Adding a run of tile on the inside of the wall, if there is none there will make a big difference. we have done this in basements where we run one or two walls and it solves the problem. drill holes through the wall right above the footing and insert plastic tubes to allow water to escape to the drain tile. these will be covered with concrete later.
The black pipe that you said was interior. Shouldn't that be flowing water? Also was it common for a house built in 79 to have an exterior perimeter drain and an interior? Just guessing but since that white PVC pipe flows so sell I'm guessing my exterior drainage is working fine. I stuck a tape measure through it and it goes 59" straight toward the foundation wall so we know that is an exterior atleast and with it flowing good I know she's not crushed... But that black pipe if it is an interior could be crushed/pinched what have you. Still trying to decide my plan of action. Which so far next year will be digging out both corners of that wall along with the wall itself and re sealing cracks and applying tar then back filling from footer to surface with wash gravel(within 1 ft). Also re grading after all of this. Does this all sound good ? With the questionable black pipe does it sound reasonable to get it scoped to see exactly what it is?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just took some photos and got elbow deep into That black corrugated pipe. It heads toward center of my slab I am guessing it was a precious floor drain that the previous owner covered with tile... So now I'm thinking if this exterior perimeter drain is just T connected into my sump pit. Once I dig down why not disconnect that and turn my system into an exterior sump pit? Is this possible or even a rational option? I see great advantages to have the outside water staying outside... Let me know thanks again
 
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