We always used 2x's and drywall.

 

I would put up 2x4 frame with a PT bottom plate or isolate the bottom plate from the floor, then us a moisture resistant drywall(personally, I like GP Densarmor; have had water get on the top of a stack of it and the water just beaded up with no penetration.)

BTW, what's this doing in the business forum?

 

Stick built frame then drywall. As dustincoc said use a moisture resistant drywall. I would also leave a extra large gap at the bottom but covered up with base.

As I suggest for any basement Expecially finished ones I would install a good battery back up sump pump system.

 

I like steel studs and drywall for basement build outs.

 

Extruded polystyrene then 2x4's. Buildingscience.com has some really good info on proper insulation and moisture management in basement remodels.

 

If theres no water issues..

2" foam board with caulked and tapes seams. This will act as a vapor barrier.

Fiberglass insulation in rim board joist bays

2x4 pt plate with a sill gasket underneath.

Conventional wood framing with M.R. drywall. If you want an additional r value you can fill the stud bays with unfaced insulation

For basements i dont like metal due to it transfering cold and vibrations more than wood.

This is what I do. I'll paint on a couple coats of Drylok, then foam board (thickness varies). I'll leave about an inch gap between the foam and stud wall. PT plate and gasket underneath, yes. I use faced insulation in the walls, I've heard views on either faced/unfaced being used.

 

Basement panel systems are ugly and a giant waste of money. They come with high pressure sales, cover nothing warranties, and hideous seems every 4 ft.

My favorite ones are the ones you have to buy a special clip for to hang a picture...

Owens Corning is about the worst I have seen. In Dayton, Ohio we finish basements with conventional construction at a fraction of the cost these wall panel companies charge.


Better?

 

Basement panel systems are ugly and a giant waste of money. They come with high pressure sales, cover nothing warranties, and hideous seems every 4 ft.

My favorite ones are the ones you have to buy a special clip for to hang a picture...

Owens Corning is about the worst I have seen. In Dayton, Ohio we finish basements with conventional construction at a fraction of the cost these wall panel companies charge.


Better?

Same thing in Columbus :thumbsup:

 

Basement



First of all you need to determine how much moisture is in the basement.
After doing this you should use the following, steel studs, stainless screws,Roxul insulation (if needed) and either paperless or purple MR board. Remember to have good air flow year round this will prevent mold and mildew in the future. Also I would use the Dry core system for the floor.

 

If theres no water issues..

2" foam board with caulked and tapes seams. This will act as a vapor barrier.

Fiberglass insulation in rim board joist bays

2x4 pt plate with a sill gasket underneath.

Conventional wood framing with M.R. drywall. If you want an additional r value you can fill the stud bays with unfaced insulation

For basements i dont like metal due to it transfering cold and vibrations more than wood.

 

Fiberglass insulation in rim board joist bays

Rock wool or Roxul would be a better choice for the OP's location.

 

If you use foam board and faced insulation you will have 2 acting vapor barriers which will lock in moisture.

 

You want to be careful in a basement with vapor barriers. The walls can only dry to the inside. You want to make sure that whatever you insulate with has a permeance level that will allow drying to the interior. An actual vapor barrier is not a good idea. A vapor retarder is ok.

 

Just to clarify, when you say wall you are talking about a framed basement wall, not the foundation wall? Blocking the vapor from the foundation is a good thing.

 

Well foam board which is what i use has an acceptable perm rating.

 

Why do you say that?

 

Fiberglass will wick moisture, rock wool and Roxul won't. If you get condensation in the batt (and this will probably happen at the OP's location some time), it won't wick to the rim board. Also doesn't support mold growth.