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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this has been discussed at length and I've done my reading and have a few questions.

I'm not sure how old the house in question is but at least 10 or 20 years old I believe. Never had any moisture issues so far.

I'm planning to go with attaching 2" XPS (taped joints and spray foam edges and cracks) to the walls, then framing 2x4 walls with R-13 unfaced and in front of the foam.

I see talk of gluing the foam to the block wall, what product gets used for that? Does the gluing eliminate the need for a fastener? Also insulating against the rim joist should be done with foam as well it seems, is 2" ok there?
 

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I done the Same thing on a basement recently. If I was you I would skip the fiberglass. They have a z channel that you nail to the wall and it holds the foam in place. Tap the joints and your good to go. I used the Dow board as the owensCorning rep said their board not not act as a vapor barrier when tapped but Dow says there's does.
 

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I done the Same thing on a basement recently. If I was you I would skip the fiberglass. They have a z channel that you nail to the wall and it holds the foam in place. Tap the joints and your good to go. I used the Dow board as the owensCorning rep said their board not not act as a vapor barrier when tapped but Dow says there's does.
+1

Forget that fiberglass. If it ever floods the fiberglass acts as a wick. You will have to tear all the drywall off and remove the batts to prevent mold.

With foam board or closed cell foam all you have to do is remove the base and drill a 5/8 in each cavity behind where the base goes. Commercial cleaners have big fans they bring in and can dry the cavity out with just that small hole. Can't do that with fiberglass.

Closed cell foam is the cats meow for basement walls and the safest bet to not get called back because of moisture issues.

You have to be very careful where place the vapor barrier as you can create dew point in the wrong spot and have big problems.

Again, I would never put batts in a basement if I had the choice not to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I done the Same thing on a basement recently. If I was you I would skip the fiberglass. They have a z channel that you nail to the wall and it holds the foam in place. Tap the joints and your good to go. I used the Dow board as the owensCorning rep said their board not not act as a vapor barrier when tapped but Dow says there's does.
Are you able to shoot the z to the wall with a powder actuated fastener?
 

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You're on the right track. Like others said, skip the fiberglass. I like 4-6 tapcons with a fender washer per sheet. We have used the panel adhesive that you apply using a foam gun before but you still need a few fasteners until the adhesive sets.
 

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Xtrememtnbiker said:
Are you able to shoot the z to the wall with a powder actuated fastener?
I used the lead anchors where you drill a hole and then knock them into the hole and expand them. Dewalt make a tool that goes on a sds drill that has 2 ends and one is your drill end and one has a end to impact the fastener in. I can't remember the name of the fasteners.



image-1075826729.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I used the lead anchors where you drill a hole and then knock them into the hole and expand them. Dewalt make a tool that goes on a sds drill that has 2 ends and one is your drill end and one has a end to impact the fastener in. I can't remember the name of the fasteners.



View attachment 106609
Is this the tool? Pin anchors they are call it seems. It says you have to use a dewalt sds bit with it but I have a bosch sds hammer. Are they compatible?

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW5517...UTF8&qid=1390361014&sr=8-1&keywords=DW5517PAD
 

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I used the lead anchors where you drill a hole and then knock them into the hole and expand them. Dewalt make a tool that goes on a sds drill that has 2 ends and one is your drill end and one has a end to impact the fastener in. I can't remember the name of the fasteners.



View attachment 106609
Pin drive anchors


If you want added insulation, you could use mineral wool in front of the XPS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So if I use the z track system with pin anchors and get my foam attached. Lets say the walls are close enough to level and square for a basement (I'll get my dad to check on his next meeting with the client) is using tapcons and and attaching flat 2x4s an option as a way to avoid losing space? Is it possible to shim them at all to make adjustments?

Or is it just a better option to stand up 2x4 walls since you're talking about 2 extra inches added but would get perfect walls that way?
 

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The wiring becomes an issue because all your boxes have to be shallow mount. And yes the walls have to be very good or you'll spend a lot of shim time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Pin drive anchors


If you want added insulation, you could use mineral wool in front of the XPS.
The last basement we did before knowing about the foam method we used roxul on and it went well. The climate here in VA is mild compared to the rest of the world... lol. I guess it's a matter of what the client wants for cost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The z channel is designed to attach the drywall directly 2 but its rare around here to get walls that dead level and straight. It's just as quick to put a 2x4 wall up then that way you ain't got to cut into the foam to run cables. The z channel is cheap.
That was my thought on the standing the walls up. That last one we had places where it was touching the block wall almost out to 2" gaps to be square and level. I'll just highly recommend to dad that we do it that way. Thanks so much guys for all the advice.
 

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Are you able to shoot the z to the wall with a powder actuated fastener?
Yes, just make sure you wear really good hearing protection or else you and everyone around you will be deaf as a post and hear ringing for the rest of your lives.

I did a job in a new church basement. They had block walls but were complaining how cold it was when the women had sowing downstairs so I used 2" XPS and z channel. Fastened with powder actuated gun (one of the nice semi auto one is the cats meow). Drywalled over that. Worked out well in that situation. Nice thing was electric was already ran with conduit so I didn't have to screw around with that very much at all.

I like your style. If you continue to seek out information before starting a job you are going to be one of the best for sure. :thumbup:
 
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