I almost always frame the walls on the ground and stand up monolithically. There is never a bunch of stuff in the way because they are always empty before we start.
If there are bulkheads and such Ill panel to it, and install a panel on layout under it.
The larger condsideration for basement framing is becoming fire blocking. Make sure you install your fire blocking before you build the wall no matter what technique you employ.
In a basement, I like to set up a vertical line laser and set the top and bottom plates to this. The line continues through and around obstructions and the plates are perfectly straight and plumb. A helper can stud up the wall after with little risk of error
It's often hard to find space to lay down a wall in a basement, and nothing more frustrating than overlooking the hump in the floor that makes it too tight to stand up.
Stick framing seems the only logical way between irregular fixed points like an existing basement
I would be tempted to take a few measurements along my wall length, average a stud length, pre cut them and stand the wall and wedge as necessary.
Steel studs are great for the builder; light, fast, straight, but that's about it. For the homeowner they suck. Hanging pictures, shelves, etc stink on steel.
Also from the ones we have demo, I have noticed that steel will rust away to nothing long before wood decays in the event of a bad sump pump.
You don't really want to average, you want to cut to the shortest height. Especially if you have tile floors overhead.
I use the C-channel for steel studs for the top and bottom plates set on a laser line as Larry describes. The advantage to the C-channel is the flange allows you to cut all the studs a little short and still secure them well. This is true for wood or steel studs you place. Steel studs get screwed in with mini's, wood studs get a 2-3/8" gun nail through the channel into the edge of the stud.
Don't forget all the fire blocking at the soffits and between the back of the stud wall, face of foundation wall.
Thats a very good point,
I also thought about using a steel stud track at the top and bottom, cutting studs to fit loose and nail em in, same concept as steel framing, non bearing applications only though
Steel track and wood studs?
I have thought about it but never done it. I see no practicle issue other than loss of strength.
Most basements here are with 3/4" so we can usually bump cut the studs in unison.
In post #5 I stated that is how I assemble the walls. Very forgiving, leaving the top 1/4 to 1/2" short keeps the wall from transferring to the floor joists. I looked at one home where the tile floor in the kitchen had a crack across its entire width. It lined right up with on of the dividing walls in the basement.I've thought about that too