What is the best way to handle base board space above floor around tile areas? Is 3/4 all the way around to high? Would you rip down the base over tile?
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That is what I am referring to. Typically I keep base up 3/8 above subfloor for carpet. This particular tile is 3/4" high.if you are referring to transitioning from carpet to tile, I rip the base over the tile area down.
No. I am doing exactly what the picture shows. Tile is layed. Now its time to install base.Are you talking about putting the base down before it's tiled? I wouldn't do that. I would rip it down after the tile is laid.
I'd prefer any base installed prior to carpet to have NO gap. So for me you'd have to rip the bottom off the base that sets on the ceramic. I doubt there's a FIRM rule across our industry. Carpet layers have different opinions on this but I want to USE the base to secure my stretch by wedging it in tight to that gully I'm leaving with my tackless strip. If the base is up in the air and I'm slipping underneath then only the pins are holding the stretch. I like to LEAN into the power stretcher so I'm not coming back to re-stretch.....ever.That is what I am referring to. Typically I keep base up 3/8 above subfloor for carpet. This particular tile is 3/4" high.
Wanted to probe and see if ripping the base was SOP.
If he's holds the base 3/8" up for carpet and the tile is 3/4" he only has a 3/8" difference. Like someone else said he only needs to rip the transition piece if it stops at a cabinet, etc. Depending on the aesthetics of full base and 3/8" ripped and where the other side ends, he might want to rip it all down.3/4" is pretty extreme height difference.
That is what I am referring to. Typically I keep base up 3/8 above subfloor for carpet. This particular tile is 3/4" high.
Wanted to probe and see if ripping the base was SOP.
Yes, either plain rip or scribe.That is what I am referring to. Typically I keep base up 3/8 above subfloor for carpet. This particular tile is 3/4" high.
Wanted to probe and see if ripping the base was SOP.
I'm fairly certain in the past 6 years I've never seen scribed base. Everybody just puts on shoe and calls it a day.MIKE ANTONETTI said:Scribe , that's funny, there is certainly a lack of that going on.
Because scribing it would look like crap. It accentuates the problem. Shoe tends to hide inconsistency better than scribing unless the base has a very wide flat area.I'm fairly certain in the past 6 years I've never seen scribed base. Everybody just puts on shoe and calls it a day.
There aren't many situations where it buys you something, but I run into them every ~2-3 years on OLD floors. If it's ~3 1/4" base, I can usually bend it to follow, but wider base doesn't bend so well, so that may get scribed. All depends on the floor and the base. A generic reply to the generic "SOP" question - either way is OK.I'm fairly certain in the past 6 years I've never seen scribed base. Everybody just puts on shoe and calls it a day.
I think what you're thinking about here is if you were dealing with a hardwood floor, for instance, and it isn't totally flat along the edges. What you're dealing with here isn't really an inconsistency, it's a level change. It's the same issue with really old houses, where you know what level the top of the base needs to be at one point, and you know what level the top of the base needs to be at another point. Do you rip all your base in the high areas or do you put one end of the base a the level you need it, put the other end at the other level, and scribe to get the angled rips. Or use some experience. Options are good.Because scribing it would look like crap. It accentuates the problem. Shoe tends to hide inconsistency better than scribing unless the base has a very wide flat area.