Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
to make it short just bought a house to rehab and the walls are shot as well as the celings there is a bout 5 layers of wall paper that dosent want to come off so im thinking it would be easier to just dry wall over what is existing other than try to tear it all down to the studs what is the best method for doing this? im new to this kind of job so any help would be appreciated.;
 

·
Contractor
Joined
·
46 Posts
what have you done to try and remove the paper? did you try it by hand with a scraper? Did you steam it? Did you try chemically removing it? How old is the house? The walls and ceilings are shot? how so?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
well one room of the house is completely shot i had already tore it down to the studs due to a leaky roof. the other rooms have some water damage and some cracks through the plaster. im sure that the wall paper could be peeled or sanded but would it be easier and nicer looking to just put up new dry wall?
 

·
Contractor
Joined
·
46 Posts
stringblade said:
well one room of the house is completely shot i had already tore it down to the studs due to a leaky roof. the other rooms have some water damage and some cracks through the plaster. im sure that the wall paper could be peeled or sanded but would it be easier and nicer looking to just put up new dry wall?

Well you could just put up new drywall. I mean if you tore down the plaster in the other rooms it's not worth doing the same here? If you have the means to dispose of the plaster and wood slats then by all means tear it down. Put in the time and do so. That's what I would do. If it were my home. Cause by covering it you're just hiding the damage or problem. But, if I didn't have the means to dispose of it(meaning paying for a dumpster) then if the wallpaper was too difficult to deal with and that was my only alternative then and only then I'd cover it. But, I know me. It would bother the hell out of me till I went back and ripped everything down and rerocked it kicking myself in the a$$ for not doing so in the first place.

But, if i was going to get a dumpster in the first place I would have ripped as much down as I was able too and rerocked everything. I know not always easy to do that especially if you have a family.

If the whole house is plaster, just wait until you decide to do the bathroom. The floor is concrete filled. That's a party and a half for your back. That's where the weight comes in. The walls are one thing but the floor (*^%()*%^(*%^ ha ha..make sure you get a demolition hammer. You'll appreciate having one if you ever tackle that job...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Hello again,

if we place drywall on top of plaster which is over bubbled wallpaper, do we have to use furing strips or can we screw the dry wall to the stud? The wall has laf and old plaster on it. Could a stud finder actually work in this case?
 

·
Contractor
Joined
·
46 Posts
stringblade said:
Hello again,

if we place drywall on top of plaster which is over bubbled wallpaper, do we have to use furing strips or can we screw the dry wall to the stud? The wall has laf and old plaster on it. Could a stud finder actually work in this case?
You don't have to used furring strips. What do you mean by bubbled? Is it the wallpaper or is it the wall? If it's that bad and it's in your way, then slice the paper. If it's going to interfere with your install. You don't need to use a stud finder. As long as you can make it through the plaster then you should hit wood. If you don't then just move your screw up a little or down a little. The wood slats holding the plaster up are only usually gapped about an 3/16 of and inch or so.
 

·
Contractor
Joined
·
46 Posts
stringblade said:
your saying that i can just ankor the drywall screws right into those strips? how about on a celing?

Well, if you have some way of screwing into the actual joist's then that's what you want to shoot for. A stud finder's not going to work because the joists as well as the slats are wood. If I was going to put up rock on a ceiling I would use 3/8". You can try to measure where the joist's are. But, unless you have access to the inside ceiling from an attic you really have no way of knowing. What you can try, I'm not sure if it will work, is use a magnetic stud studfinder. What it looks for is the nails not the wood. I'm not sure if it's going to work. But, you can give it a shot.

The only sure way of doing it right would be to gut it and rock it. Doing that you can also update the wiring too. Kill 2 birds with one stone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,265 Posts
Hammertime said:
I'm not sure if it will work, is use a magnetic stud studfinder. What it looks for is the nails not the wood. I'm not sure if it's going to work.
the house i grew up in has metal mesh under the plaster...it makes stud finders crazy
 
B

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Don't forget every door jamb will have to be dealt width because of the extra width of the walls
 

·
Contractor
Joined
·
46 Posts
stringblade said:
should 3/8 inch dry wall be used on the walls as well or just the ceilings?
That'll be fine, but I still say to remove the plaster. The wood slats are optional. But, like I said if it was me I'd just gut the room. Install some insulation and redo the wiring. You'll never have to worry about it because you know it was done right the first time. Leaves no room for future problems. If you're not ready to do that financially then wait until you can.

You're going to have some work ahead of you with the doors and windows to allow for the excess thickness of the wall. If you can't get the moulding off without breaking it then you'll have to try and match it or replace it. Think it through.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I agree on gutting and re-rocking. Do it one room at a time if finances and/or time are an issue. Like others say, you can upgrade the wiring while you're at it. Maybe even add or change windows, add a closet, etc. If the ceilng joists are 24" OC, it's best to use 5/8" drywall for fear of sagging when you texture and/or paint.

Hanging new drywall over old is more trouble than hanging over bare studs anyway. It's hard to find good meat to screw into and easy to fracture the sheetrock. Joints don't always end up flush which makes taping a *****. Like others say, you have to build up the jambs with rip stock plus add box extenders to the electrical boxes. I've had success removing and reusing trim with a firm paint scraper that has an offset in the blade (so you can get it flat to the wall behind the trim and the handle is away from the wall).

But then, I've ran into some nightmares when demoing older homes. I've seen some ugly s**t where they ran out of 2x's and scabbed two shortys together. Stuff like that. In the days of plaster and lath, framers were ofen sloppy and did not get nuts with straight plumb walls because the plaster was applied after the framing. Check for bowed studs with a straightedge horizontally across a group of studs. You can straighten studs by cutting a kerf and scabbing a 2x4 to the side. Misaligned studs can be built up with thin shimstock (homecenters carry it). Sheetrock has some give but not more than 1/16" per 16" stud bay to be safe.

For demolition, a large 24 or 30 oz straight rip claw framing hammer works pretty well. they have a lot of leverage for removing lath quickly. It will also knock in the nails the lath leaves behind quickly. If you do any rework to the existing bare structure, Freud makes one of the best nail eating circular saw blades I've ever used. Milwaukee's Sawzall Axe (nail imbedded wood) and torch blades (nails) kick axe too. Greenlee makes nail eating augers if you plan to rewire. Never use a spade bit in existing studs for fear of hitting a nail.

If renting a dumpster is inconvenient or doesn't work with your timeframe, you can get those contractor trash bags that home centers sell. They are very strong and won't break. Even with nail imbedded lath.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
don't make a meal of it

i have a graet deal of experience in over boarding and think it is brilliant.

Make sure no damp is present then procced to hack out for cables in walls or ceilings, remove skirting boards, architrave and mouldings. use 12.5mm board with 60mm dry wall screws find your first joist in a corner by hammering a large nail into the plaster to see if it hits anything then find your secound joist, you now have your joist spaceings ( in the uk this is 14 inches) and can measure and mark with hammering the nail as a double check.
Make holes in the existing wall/ceiling as you like and just board over.
Use 12.5mm batten around door/window frames to make up the extra width and fix your architrave or mouldings

I hope this makes sense and is helpfull
:Thumbs:

Keith
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top