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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure if this is the right forum for this. I have people asking about Azek and was just wondering if anybody out there has been using this stuff and how they like/dislike it.
 

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...jammin
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I don't install it (well, I have, but it's not my primary, I help out my buds that do sometimes)
I have had some interesting feedback on it this year from my buds that do install it regularly:

The mold/mildew thing is a little tricky
Now I'm on the corner of river and ocean here, the land of rust and mildew, so any problem like that can be amplified by the climate I work in
Severe humidity, all year 'round, (except for a nice deep freeze for 2-10 weeks)

The problem my buds that install it have, is that 'round here the Azek trim can get mildew pretty quick, specially on the ends
The thing is, they can always run up a ladder, squirt some X-14 and touch-up paint some painted wood if it gets spots after a few months
Not so with the Azek
The guys I know that install it here would rather not
They all say it's the customer that wants it

It's enough that I've asked for samples to experiment on a mildew removal, sealer and painting system for it
I think I will be getting calls in a summer or two on it, and need to know how to deal with it
 

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I've used Azek about a half dozen times. Filling the nail holes presents a problem if you are not painting it. Caulk doesn't fill them enough and you are left with small indentations of which a picky client might not like. They say you can paint the stuff, but I don't like the adhesion even from the special primer the store recommended. Although I did paint a whole single family homes worth of Azek trim about a year ago and is holding well today.
 

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I use it fairly often, - - mostly as either fascia-boards and/or as risers for two-tone composite decks (the white risers 'accent' the white composite railings).

Personally, I like the stuff. A little pricey, yes, - - but then, I'm not the one buying it, the customer is.

I fill nail-holes with GE white silicone caulk, - - wipe the excess off (one time only) with a dry paper towel. Works just fine.

I've never had occasion to try painting it yet.


P.S. They also work well for 'kick-plates' under exterior doors.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Tom, Have you ever made a radius curve with it? As in over top of a half round transom? I read a little about the stuff and it says it can be thermoformed...just doesn't say HOW to thermoform it. I used it only once at a customers insistance and all I did was trim around a door and two sidelites.
 

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No, Tim, - - can't say I've tried that yet, - - but it really doesn't sound like a problem, - - Azek is more or less 'solid PVC', - - I imagine you could make a luanne form (slightly less than the inside radius you need), - - then torch or 'heat-gun' the top (unexposed) side of the Azek, as you bend it against the luanne while it's hot, - - and then secure it in place 'til it cools off. I say 'slightly less' on the radius, figuring it may have a slight 'memory'.

I'll be in my shop at least part of the day tomorrow, - - if I have any azek layin' around, - - maybe I'll do a quick experiment. Don't worry about me, - - there's a fire hydrant right in my front yard!! :cheesygri
 

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Now I'm takin' for granted your talking about a curved 'transom-jamb', - - or are you talkin' about a curved 'transom-casing'??

If it's casing that's probably even easier.

Let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It would be exterior transom casing. Guy has existing 5/4X8 that was done in about 6 pieces and everything is starting to rot.
 

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That's how I would tackle that, - - with 4, 5, or 6 pieces (depending on the radius and the width of the Azek), angled together at either 22 1/2, 18, or 15 degrees, (repectively). First I'd bevel the piece along it's width to get the 'basic' casing profile, then I'd cut the necessary angles 'continuously' out of the same piece of Azek, - - with the same side facing up, so as not to have any variation in shading. The edges can than be glued together with PVC glue (try to find a 'clear' primer), - - then cut the radii with a jig or band saw, - - then break out the router for some detail, - - at the very least a 'bead' on both the inside and outside edges of the radii.

Gotta' make the cuts a little on the fast side, - - after all, it's plastic.

Hope he's payin' good, - - lotta' work for one piece!!


P.S. You could probably make the job a little easier and look even better at the same time by using a 'key' up at the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Tom, that's what I was planning initially but once I started reading Azek's sales brochure I saw that they said it could be thermoformed and it showed a picture of exterior casing work done in two pieces.
 

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Thermoforming PVC is challenging to the novice, it involves ovens and jigs.

If you want more info, ask. This ain't goin' to be cheap. You may want to see what your local millwright will charge, I can almost assure you that he will be less expensive.
 

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Whatever you do, - - don't listen to Teetor, - - unless you got an absolute minimum of 50-Large to spend on plasma cutters, double radii laser-molders, Nasa-style computer modules, etc. :cheesygri

Seriously, - - I still say the quickest, cheapest way out for a one-time gig is to (manually) make it yourself.
 

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I have worked with the stuff and like it for it's low maintance and it's as easy to work with as wood. I made raised panels for a bay projection and have a project which requires replaceing 6" trim over a circle top window. The way to bend it is to heat it to 250 degrees and bend it around a form. Heat blankets work best but a little pricey for just 1 or 2 projects so I will be using a sonatube and a torpeido heat. If you mill Azeck you should close the pours with denaterd alchol.
 

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I've only installed Azek on two houses over the last summer and I will never use it again. First off all it expands and contracts more than what the manufacturer promises. Every joint is glued,but when it gets below 0 degrees,I've noticed it breaking loose of the glue. Also your using round headed nails because as it expands and contracts,it wallows out the nail holes. Over time,your trim will drop lower and lower on the sub facia untill you see the holes below your nails. You ever see this stuff after a good hail storm? Your three quarter facer looks like someone went after it with a ball peen hammer.Not to mention if your doing soffit,it requires about twice the blocking as wood....oh,and if your framers were'nt the greatest,the facer will show every imperfection. This product does not act like wood,it's like cutting paper. I've been building for thirty years now and I'm not a fan of experimental products. (untill they're proven) I think this junk will look like hell in fifteen years. It is the home owners who want it. I now talk them out of it. There are thousands of homes in this country that are over a hundred years old with the original wood trim still on them.
If you bid a structure with this stuff,it takes longer because of the additional blocking and the glueing. Bid accordingly

I do not recommend it.....it's plastic for goodness sakes!:no:
 

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Azek can be heated and formed, and it's not that tricky. TimNJ depending on where you are in NJ the Azek rep is very helpful and always willing to visit a job and give advice &/or walk you through the process. He has helped my customers out on several occasions. The alternative is buying a premade piece to fit that transom. The only company I deal with is Millwork Unlimited because they really use Azek, many other companies making PVC millwork are out there but don't use Azek. To the original topic

I work in northern NJ and Azek is outselling wood trim by a wide margin in my particular market. Majority of customers are very happy with it. Many architects are specifying Azek.
 

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I just went back to look at a job I had done in Azek 3 years ago ...looks like the day I did it... The job was in Hunterdon Cnty, NJ. I use MH Ready Patch to fill the holes...fill the holes, let it set for a few min and wipe it off with a damp cloth, fill it one more time and wipe again. Caulk looks like hell, and the Ready Patch seems to be holding up. I also use 2 1/4 SS Trim Screws to attach the Azek, and 16 awg trim nails for small moldings and what not. I like it, it is nice stuff and the HO always seems to love it the first time they see the job completed.
 
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