Could you use pocket screws? Is the outside of the cabinet visible??
Azek face frame cabinet
I am going to make an exterior cabinet out of Azek or KOMA, if they like my price :w00t:. Anyway it will be a PVC product.
I want to make a simple face frame with inset doors and fasten it to a carcase with the standard 3/16 overhang on the sides (like you see in standard kitchen cabinetry).
Two things I am unsure of:
1. How do I fasten the face frames to the carcase without using stainless trim screws thru the faceframe into the end 'grain' of the carcase? I know I can use PVC glue on any joints but I don't think this will be enough. I thought about biscuits, but don't think they will work wood to PVC.
2. Same issue with the rails of the door and face frame. Normally, for wood, I run the pieces on the router with the stile and rail bit and glue up. Anyone ever do such a thing with PVC? I am thinking I will get too much chip out on the face.
Any suggestions on these end to end connections?
I am going to try some test pieces before I begin this (still haven't even put a number to this yet :laughing
If I can figure this out, this will be one cool project when done.
I want to make a simple face frame with inset doors and fasten it to a carcase with the standard 3/16 overhang on the sides (like you see in standard kitchen cabinetry).
Two things I am unsure of:
1. How do I fasten the face frames to the carcase without using stainless trim screws thru the faceframe into the end 'grain' of the carcase? I know I can use PVC glue on any joints but I don't think this will be enough. I thought about biscuits, but don't think they will work wood to PVC.
2. Same issue with the rails of the door and face frame. Normally, for wood, I run the pieces on the router with the stile and rail bit and glue up. Anyone ever do such a thing with PVC? I am thinking I will get too much chip out on the face.
Any suggestions on these end to end connections?
I am going to try some test pieces before I begin this (still haven't even put a number to this yet :laughing
If I can figure this out, this will be one cool project when done.
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they actually make plastic biscuts
on one job i was doing there was a45 deg bay window ,on the back patio i thought it would be kool to build a combination out door cabinet/bay window support to close off the wasted space under the window
on one job i was doing there was a45 deg bay window ,on the back patio i thought it would be kool to build a combination out door cabinet/bay window support to close off the wasted space under the window
The outside is visible and I have thought about using pocket screws. If they work, they will all be inside the cabinet and unseen from the outside.
I am not sure of the holding strength of screws in the center of the PVC.
That stuff seems too grainy on the inside.
I am not sure of the holding strength of screws in the center of the PVC.
That stuff seems too grainy on the inside.
hmmm (brainstorm) I wonder if Azek is hot air weldable
well it is pvc ....intresting:thumbsup:
Good idea but how the heck would you do that without melting it all to $h1thmmm (brainstorm) I wonder if Azek is hot air weldable
Tom, where did you see plastic biscuits? That may be the answer :thumbsup:
pvc welding is neat. I used to make blower housings, ductwork and fume hoods for acid proof lab workstations. painted all the metal parts with epoxy BIG BUCKS
...make your own plastic biscuits w/ the table saw...
I wouldn't trust pocket screws to hold this together-too much abuse especially for a free standing unit. How about instead making a wood/plywood carcass inside for strength and then skin it w/ 3/8" on the sides and regular 3/4" for the front (talking Azek here). Not sure if it's ok to bond pywood and Azek-wonder if 'foamboard' adhesive works? I'm using PL200 for my sheetgoods to adhere it to the backing material-can't speak yet of it's durability in terms of the bond.
I wouldn't trust pocket screws to hold this together-too much abuse especially for a free standing unit. How about instead making a wood/plywood carcass inside for strength and then skin it w/ 3/8" on the sides and regular 3/4" for the front (talking Azek here). Not sure if it's ok to bond pywood and Azek-wonder if 'foamboard' adhesive works? I'm using PL200 for my sheetgoods to adhere it to the backing material-can't speak yet of it's durability in terms of the bond.
Good idea but how the heck would you do that without melting it all to $h1t
Tom, where did you see plastic biscuits? That may be the answer :thumbsup:
http://www.bondfill.com/products/bond-and-fill-biscuits.htm
I've dabbled in Azek a little.:whistling If you use Christy's Red Hot adhesive with slight clamping pressure and let it cure for 24 hours or so, the joint will be virtually unbreakable. You may be able to use a spline of the same material to keep things lined up, but you can usually do very well without it. Clean up any squeezeout with a rag soaked with Goof Off immediately. This adhesive will literally fuse the two mating edges together.:thumbsup:
I agree with the pocket screws. Not so much on the plywood. I would be afraid of moisture and rot or swelling between the materials....make your own plastic biscuits w/ the table saw...
I wouldn't trust pocket screws to hold this together-too much abuse especially for a free standing unit. How about instead making a wood/plywood carcass inside for strength and then skin it w/ 3/8" on the sides and regular 3/4" for the front (talking Azek here). Not sure if it's ok to bond pywood and Azek-wonder if 'foamboard' adhesive works? I'm using PL200 for my sheetgoods to adhere it to the backing material-can't speak yet of it's durability in terms of the bond.
Might work if I could guarantee EVERY seam and joint was water tight. This things going to have inset doors on it as well so I know water is going to get in.
I didn't know Azex came in 3/8" I thought only 3/4" and 1/2".
I like that Bond & Fill. Looks like it just might be the ticket. Turns out my main lumber supplier is also a dealer according to the website. :thumbup:
I'm going to look for that Christie's Red Hot also
You will not be sorry, I've tried others and this is the ticket in my opinion. Look back at my first post. All connections were made with Christy's and these pics were taken at least 2 years after completion of the jobs.:thumbsup:I'm going to look for that Christie's Red Hot also
Azek sheet goods are available in 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 and 5/4 thickness. I have gotten them up to 4x10 sheets very readily.I didn't know Azex came in 3/8" I thought only 3/4" and 1/2".
So do you use the clear PVC solvent glue or the stuff in the tube they sell for fences?You will not be sorry, I've tried others and this is the ticket in my opinion. Look back at my first post. All connections were made with Christy's and these pics were taken at least 2 years after completion of the jobs.:thumbsup:
I am actually going to make the door similar to the one you pictured. Nice stuff BTW.
So that door was solvent welded only? No other fasteners?
Why not build the box out of 3/4 or 5/4 sheet goods, then use adhesive to mount the faceframe?:thumbsup:I thought about biscuits, but don't think they will work wood to PVC
.
That's my plan. Use a 3/4 sheet ripped to the dimensions I need. I was only aware of Oatey PVC cement. I know I can separate pipe welded with that stuff so I know it isn't super strong and wasn't sure it would hold.Why not build the box out of 3/4 or 5/4 sheet goods, then use adhesive to mount the faceframe?:thumbsup:
I have worked with this stuff when budget allows :whistling. I love it since it's rot free. Don't love the dust cutting it makes so much.
I am not sure if I am going to use a sheet for all the pieces or not. I hate getting 16' dimensional stock and only needing 8' or 10'.
This is what I prefer to work with. One tube will go a long way. I did every connection on my house (the siding chronicles thread) with a little over one tube. That door is two sheets of 3/4 with the 3/4 overlay frame. I used a few 18 guage SS brads to tack everything in place until the adhesive set along with some clamps with blocking to spread out the pressure. It is 100% Azek, fairly heavy and I used 2" screws on the hinges. As I said this pic is at least 2 years after the completion of the project.:thumbsup:So do you use the clear PVC solvent glue or the stuff in the tube they sell for fences?
I am actually going to make the door similar to the one you pictured. Nice stuff BTW.
So that door was solvent welded only? No other fasteners?
So how do you treat the rough edges?
I posted a thread about the raised panels and decided against them.
I will still have rough edges on ripped or routed pieces though
I posted a thread about the raised panels and decided against them.
I will still have rough edges on ripped or routed pieces though
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