Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been reading the forums and would prefer not to get into a discussion about the viability of Aura. With that said...

I had a helper paint the inside of a door the other day with Aura, eggshell finish, and when I went to look at it he'd really botched it up. In too many places you could see where the paint had 'pulled' (for lack of a better word). In other words, there were gloppy streaks. I was not pleased. To show him *how* to paint the door I did the outside and sure enough, I ran into the same problem. Having a great deal more experience than he did I was able to correct most of it as I went along but I have to say the experience was a startling one. Moreover, as Aura dries nicely flat on rolled and brushed walls, it did not dry down on the door all that much and in order to get the second coat (on the inside of the door) to look presentable I had to have him sand down most of the "glops". This took up time, which is money.

On walls, the Aura is sweet and I like it a lot, especially how my cuts blend with rolled areas with finishes that I've never succeeded in getting with the Wall Satin. But on pre-primed trim and that primed door, the Aura felt like I was painting with thick, liquid plastic. It's not that I had a tiny bit in the pot and a gummed up brush, but it really felt as if the paint was drying almost on application and before I could smooth the strokes.

I have since apologized to the helper and showed him how to compensate. But I've never had this problem with other paints and, as I've said, it doesn't happen when cutting in walls, just on primed wood.

Has anyone had this experience before? And if so, what did you find made it work better?

Thanks,

J
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,102 Posts
When using Aura, I add 10% dilluter. Theirs. Makes all the difference. Gives longer open time, reduces brush drag. We got into this while spraying with HVLP system.

We also will use the Aura primer so everything is compatible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's what the guy at the paint store suggested. I didn't think it fair I had to buy yet another product but that does seem to be the solution.

Thanks for that.

J
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,102 Posts
I usually add 'Floetrol' to my latex paints, but this is not compatible with Aura.

I agree it's an added expense, but hey, just pass it on to the customer. If they want the Aura, they got to pay :thumbup:

Oh, and for the real painters here, my painter doesn't spray, and I do - got into it for my cabinet work. I'm not claiming to be a painter. I sub that unless it calls for HVLP work.

Just thought I should confess before I get into trouble.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
487 Posts
I added Floetrol from the start because I had heard of difficulties brushing the pc and it didn't help. It does makes for a real nice sprayed finish though.
 

·
A bit abrasive.
Joined
·
1,529 Posts
It is the nature of the products with the waterborne enamels.
It is best to put the right guy on the brush when it comes to SW ProClassic and/or Aura.
I have been really kickin' chicken with the Sologloss from SW, it lays out like oil and goes on with ease. Recently I used SW Black Bean (last color at the bottom of the color chart) over white satin trim and it brushed over in one coat (I use a 3" Corona oval Bronson for everything). Covering over the white was a breeze!
But again lay it on, brush it down, walk away. Overworking the paint will cause ropey yuck on your jobs.
I do not recommend using additives, the paint should work just fine right out of the can.

I think it is awesome that you apologized to your worker, that takes some doing.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top