Had a inspector tell me your not allowed to cut birdsmouths anymore in rafters. All I can see in IRC is 1/4 depth notch , 1/6 length depth?
Are birdsmouths allowed anymore
tyring hard
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I always pin the ridges with a common on the end. It locates all my intersecting points. This allows the hips to set themselves. If the measurements are right, the tops only fit in one place, where the corners of the hips plane out on both edges. The location on the plate sets itself by default, provided the building is square.:whistling
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True, just as I stated that I never finished a BM with a handsaw. In retrospect, I've had some bastard hips and valleys that were very exaggerated and did use either a handsaw or reciprocating saw to finish the cut.:whistling
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If you look closely at the first and second pics I posted, there is a steel plate sandwiched between LVL ridges. If I recall, it's around 38' long and has a pitch on either end of it. Scary getting that set and pinned in place, especially since one end bears on a CMU wall that didn't exist when the beam was set.:laughing:Ive been running my hips the the ridge and then cutting the key short. There's not much of a way to nail the ridge to key till you get the hips up. Just the way I've been doin it, maybe I'll try yur way next time
I agree with you, but 12" overhangs!?!?!
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If left up to me that's what I do- 12" gable oh's (barges) and 16" facia oh at eaves.
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we cut rafters all the time on the additions we do. and all of them get birdsmouths. the inspectors dont say a thing about it. if they do comment its just on how tight the cuts are
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Very, very common around here. Shaded windows when the sun is high (Summer) and plenty of passive solar heat when the sun is low (Winter). I'd say well over 95% of the homes I have framed are 12" overhangs. The rest were less than 2' with the exception of the HOH...4'.I agree with you, but 12" overhangs!?!?!
Typically, the larger overhangs are designed with level soffits that securely pins the rafter and prevents sagging of the tail, which still doesn't warrant finishing the BM cut with a handsaw.:no:
Take a look. Small sample of the broad picture as far as roof overhangs in this area.
http://www.contractortalk.com/members/loneframer-42046/albums/homes-i-have-framed/6046-001/
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That's pretty common up this way as well. 12" eaves always and the rakes are either 12' or a 2x6 with a furring strip wrapped in aluminum. If finished correctly, both ways look nice, but the 12" overhang gives a better effect.
I don't know about there, but in FL anything larger than 16" must have an engineers stamp. At least thats what a feller told me. I'm a roofer, not a framer.
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Might have to do with uplift more than anything. We deal with that in certain areas here, especially the coast.
He probably thought about how it's not allowed in i joists and i joists are so much better than dimension lumber
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That should have read 12" not 12'.
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They actually are allowed in I-joists, provided you follow manufacturers guidelines.He probably thought about how it's not allowed in i joists and i joists are so much better than dimension lumber
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I've done 5' overhangs on a house. crazy upside hangers onto triple lvl rafters and lots of uplift strapping. the triple Lvl rafters had a birdsmouth :thumbsup: engineer approved of course...
I agree totally! It's not a stair stringer. They only possible problem you could have by over cutting a birds mouth is making the overhang weaker. But you would have to really overcut. All it does is set up your overhang and give you a "stop" so your rafters are all set in the same distance from the ridge and you can maintain a consistent overhang. Any framer has built parts of a roof where there is no birds mouth. They all get hurricane ties anyway.loneframer said:
As this Q & A from the current issue of JLC shows,not only are birds mouths allowed,how do you get by without them?
http://www.jlconline.com/framing/q-birdsmouths-in-rafters-are-they-necessary.aspx
http://www.jlconline.com/framing/q-birdsmouths-in-rafters-are-they-necessary.aspx
Ive framed 1000's of roofs no lie. Still stick frame them in the south in high wind zones. Cant stand trusses. The rep is wrong that isnt non typical any more.
With reg to the dep. of cut rule of thumb as long as you have enough meat to = a 2x4 truss top cord then what is the issue?
In florida they are on the way stucco lathe is installed we stated doing plaster back in the 40's so I have some clue what I'm doing. Any way they want it only one direction or the openings of the grid if you get my drift. Any way I chalange the inspector because I know my state codes he wouldnt back down so I asked this next question. What direction should I place it on a ceiling or arched openings crickets.
With reg to the dep. of cut rule of thumb as long as you have enough meat to = a 2x4 truss top cord then what is the issue?
In florida they are on the way stucco lathe is installed we stated doing plaster back in the 40's so I have some clue what I'm doing. Any way they want it only one direction or the openings of the grid if you get my drift. Any way I chalange the inspector because I know my state codes he wouldnt back down so I asked this next question. What direction should I place it on a ceiling or arched openings crickets.
yep framed a few lindal cedar homes with them. lots of plywood blocking to fill the wb back in but 1/4 shy top and bottom cord
Now the have ripped 2x4 you place on the beams no set cuts. works ok imo
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Back to OP, how could you get by without one? What's the rafter to bear on, a single point of edge contact? THAT should fail an inspection.
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