No. No. And no.

2009....we use metal hardware. ALWAYS.

 

But why, why or why? You're suggesting that erroneous material would be allowed on TV?

It has worked well in the past and looks to me like it would save labor. One thought I had was that glue would be a good idea. Bolting might make it more acceptable to the inspectors. I tend to see notching as decreasing the size of your joist though.

I'll try to remember to ask at the code enforcement office next time I go in. Thanks for the respected input form both sides of the fence.

Good Luck
Dave

 

That is how I was taught in late 70's. It doesn't fly today though. I like the idea of a larger rim and I suppose after that is bolted on to code and the appropriate hangers are installed you can then apply a ledger under the joists and ofcourse that would pass any code. But why bother?

 

Ledger strips all the way, all the time. I do use a larger band than I do on the floor joists. If I need 2x8 for the joists, I use 2x10 for the band. Much faster, cheaper, easier, and better than steel in my opinion. I feel that be the time you put a nail in every hole in the joist hanger, you have almost mutilated the band and the joist.

 

Ledger strips all the way, all the time. I do use a larger band than I do on the floor joists. If I need 2x8 for the joists, I use 2x10 for the band. Much faster, cheaper, easier, and better than steel in my opinion. I feel that be the time you put a nail in every hole in the joist hanger, you have almost mutilated the band and the joist.

I stayed at a beach house in the outer banks of your state and ALOT of deck work in that area, and i saw these ledger strips on alot of the decks. Pretty new too, wont fly up here tho:no:.

 

By the way, this does pass code in my area as long as you have three nails through the ledger strip and within an inch and a half from each corner of the joist. May not in yours though.

 

I always hate to disagree with Greg :no:
but, I have done, and I just did.
A low deck (7" above grade) that
intersects with a higher deck at a
30º angle, I've got 5 joist 12"oc
spanning @1' - @4' from beam to
ledger.
I've used ledgers in other situations
and can't see a problem if everything
is sized and attached with care.

Again, no disrespect.:thumbsup:

 

It may be more about the band seperating away from the joists than actually supporting the load. I'm sure someone on here will chime in shortly with all kinds of studies from Simpson. I like many others just comply with the inspectors in my area who are Gods that you must worship.

 

I like many others just comply with the inspectors in my area who are Gods that you must worship.

Truly where the rubber meets the road.

Good Luck
Dave

 

I have seen guys still doing that here. 2x12 ledger, 2x8 joist, 2x4 nailed to 2x12 under joist. I don't think they'll pass with notched joist & 2x2 strips deal anymore like they used to tho.

 

R502.6 Bearing. The ends of each joist, beam or girder shall
have not less than 1.5 inches (38 mm) of bearing on wood or
metal and not less than 3 inches (76 mm) on masonry or concrete
except where supported on a l-inch-by-4-inch (25.4 mm
by 102 mm) ribbon strip and nailed to the adjacent stud or by
the use of approved joist hangers.

A ribbon is a ledger. And most places a ledger has to be nailed with 3 nails under each joist.

That is IRC Code.

 

R502.6.2 Joist framing. Joists framing into the side of a
wood girder shall be supported by approved framing
anchors or on ledger strips not less than nominal 2 inches by
2 inches (51 mm by 51 mm).

Again IRC.

 

R502.6.2 Joist framing. Joists framing into the side of a
wood girder shall be supported by approved framing
anchors or on ledger strips not less than nominal 2 inches by
2 inches (51 mm by 51 mm).

Again IRC.

Nominal means "in name only". 1 1/2 " actual

 

Ledger strips on decks = another good place to collect rain & debris = quicker rotting :clap: However, it is better than nothing

Needless to say I use hangers - unfortunately for most HO's around here they hire the guys that just use a couple of nails for the joists (no strips or hangers), bury the 4x4 posts anywhere from 6" to 18" in the ground, slap on some decking & call it a day

 

I have had to do it on rare occesions wheere they dont want to look at any ugly metal connectors.

 

Take your hangers to a powder coater and the problem is solved. The last job I did, I had 20+ powder coated in for $75 in one day. You can have any color in the rainbow.

 

now that's a great idea Greg:thumbsup:would look much better under a raised deck

 

They look sharp to say the least.

 

I haven't seen anyone mention the use of isolation tape to separate the metal hangers from the now copper-based treatement of the wood. I have attended several seminars (one was the KATZ Road Show) and all mentioned the need to not trust the metal in contact with the treated wood. They were also big on fastener failure and suggested stainless only, with hot-dip and coatings running a low second best. Any opinions? BTW I can see huge advantages with the powder coating idea - probably great insurance and a lot better appearance on decks where the underside is visible - A nice forest green, perhaps??

 

I'm going to let you in on a little secret....Grace spends a lot of money telling people that you need to wrap a whole deck in Grace products. I use Vycor where it's needed, but taking advice from a manufacturer whose best interests are served by selling a lot of product should be taken with a grain of salt. ACQ has been phased out almost entirely in my area.

As for what you see at seminars, I have seen $100 worth of flashing and 2 hours of labor go into a $200 window. Reality and what you are pitched are two different things IMO.

 

Maybe 5150 worthy....But I do entertain! MYSELF!!

I have my own private carnival in my mind!!!

 

Maybe 5150 worthy....But I do entertain! MYSELF!!

I have my own private carnival in my mind!!!

Any bearded ladies @ this carnival???

 

dAMN YOOUR FAST!!

 

Told you I have a carnival, and I am ALWAYS on the "Tilt-A-Whirl"!!