Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm prepping my ceiling for a tongue and groove install over a drywalled ceiling. There was a 2 and 1/2 inch difference from the lowest and highest point in the ceiling , so i installed furrying strips made from 3/4 - 1-1/2 inch plywood screwed into the ceiling joists which are sistered 2x4 spanning 20 feet with 24 inches on center. I shimmed all the plywood strips down to the lowest point with my laser and storypole referencing the lowest point.

Assuming my laser is within an 1/8th accurate in a 21 x 20 foot dwelling space, i am within a 1/8th to a 1/4 inch level and flat across the span of the ceiling. Now that its time to prefinish my ceiling material , i am wondering if anyone here has ever put hardwood flooring on the ceiling? I can't really find good pics of it done, but I think some oak or maple flooring on the ceiling wood look good and weigh less than 3/4 inch tongue and groove SPF from my local lumberyards. Home Depot offers white pine T&G, at the expense of semi crappy milling.

I'd appreciate any response, criticisms, etc. from anyone that cares enough to get to this point in my post!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
570 Posts
We did one w/v-groove on a kit remodel looked really nice. Have never done hardwood flooring on a ceiling. If you do I’d go w/neutral color not too light or dark as trends change. Of course that depends on the cabs etc. How old is the house.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,062 Posts
I’m thinking of how heavy a flooring gun is.


You may do better with T & G or ship lap or faux ship lap.

Even LVP glued in place seems easier than flooring.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I can think of a lot more reasons not to do it than I can think of reasons to do it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Forsure, thank you for the input. Sometimes you appear in inappropriate settings, such as when visiting my grandma in mexico, where i have to sleep on the floor next to my brother, but this time your appearance is welcomed, Morning Wood

:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Not sure what kind of spf you are talking about, but in my mind, hardwood weighs more than softwood.
3/4" thick Spruce , Pine, Fir etc. What i don't like about it is that it's real knotty, which is not a problem but the grain pattern is real boring and all the boards are yellow. HD near me has clear white pine with very few knots, but the chamfered and milled edges are real crappy, i would have to route all the edges to get a consistent look
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
We did one w/v-groove on a kit remodel looked really nice. Have never done hardwood flooring on a ceiling. If you do I’d go w/neutral color not too light or dark as trends change. Of course that depends on the cabs etc. How old is the house.
What finish did you use for the T&G?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I’m thinking of how heavy a flooring gun is.


You may do better with T & G or ship lap or faux ship lap.

Even LVP glued in place seems easier than flooring.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I was gonna face nail with a 15 or 18 gauge nailer, I was just looking for something that looks better than the T&G SPF i can get in my area
 

·
Box Builder
Joined
·
6,306 Posts
Forsure, thank you for the input. Sometimes you appear in inappropriate settings, such as when visiting my grandma in mexico, where i have to sleep on the floor next to my brother, but this time your appearance is welcomed, Morning Wood

:thumbsup:

I would use a T&G material designed more towards what you are doing. Better lengths available. It will not be as heavy as flooring. It will be easier to apply blind nailing or face nailing. It will also be cheaper. You could use a panels or finger jointed if painted.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
570 Posts
Blind nailed, a light stain to match cabs & poly. I’m sure your lumber yard/mill has something heads above Home Cheapo. We never buy any kind of finish product @ the box. If you haven’t already, establish a relationship w/a reputable supplier. Better service, product & price. Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
472 Posts
I would recommend that you look a little harder for other T&G options. I've used cedar (knotty), either beech or butternut which also had a fair amount of knots and yellow pine which was almost all clear. All were readily available in my area.

I usually prefinish with polyurethane.
 

·
90%-er
Joined
·
1,253 Posts
Did my entire 900 square foot main room with pine tongue and groove a few years ago.
Absolutely love it.



Edit: these boards were attached with a swerve of liquid nails on the back of every piece, then face nailed with 18ga finish nails into the trusses. I snapped chalk lines on the drywall before-hand to mark the trusses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,704 Posts
I got with a log home supplier and got aspen. I had some time, and was able to wait for them to be somewhat close on a way to a delivery. Price was way better than I could get locally, but that was 20 years ago.


Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
862 Posts
Buy prefinished 3/8 material. Construction adhesive and 15 gauge in the tongue.

Any lumber liquidators stock should be fine. Youre not walking on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Did my entire 900 square foot main room with pine tongue and groove a few years ago.
Absolutely love it.



Edit: these boards were attached with a swerve of liquid nails on the back of every piece, then face nailed with 18ga finish nails into the trusses. I snapped chalk lines on the drywall before-hand to mark the trusses.
Looks real nice my friend , how did you finish the boards? Also do you think it can be done with 2.5" 15 gauge nails and no construction adhesive ?
 

·
90%-er
Joined
·
1,253 Posts
There is no finish on them. They've been up there for three or four years now and I've had no warping or sagging of any kind.

Aa to the nails: I would never be comfortable with just nailing something like this. Trim screws/French head screws would be a different story. But if you're gonna just nail it like I did, I absolutely would have the glue too. These pieces are long, heavy, and they are obviously interlocking. So if one starts to fall down, it's gonna take the adjacent ones with it in a cascading mess.

The liquid nails was a very cheap insurance policy to make sure that doesn't happen. I have a battery powered caulk gun, so it was about five seconds and a no-brainer to put a bead of glue on the back.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top