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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody out there have experience with this Green Glue stuff?

Got a client who would like some sound isolation for a home theatre room to keep movies from waking up the kids at night while still getting the full "boom" effect of their surround sound. Green glue seems like a reasonable option. I had a buddy mention the product to me. They don't need total isolation, just to deaden things quite a bit.

I read some reviews online and it seems that this stuff works pretty well actually. In looking at the spec sheet, I'm not sure sandwiching it between two layers of 1/2" is the absolute optimal way to go (with 5/8" providing the most bang for the buck since more mass = the name of the game it seems) but client doesn't want to rip out the existing 1/2" which is in good condition and the room is small to begin with...it looks like the results should still be pretty good with two layers of 1/2" and the Green Glue between. Basically plan is to do the following:

1-use 2 tubes of the Green Glue compound per 4x8 sheet (this is recommended amount per manufacturer)
2-overlap the seams when hanging the second layer of 1/2"
3-apply the Green Glue noiseproofing sealant (separate product) along the edges and seams
4-cross my fingers it sounds right and there are no call backs, hah :whistling


Anybody with more acoustical experience have anything to contribute? Not sure where to go with this whole thing, but I do like a challenge. :thumbsup:
 

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The bass will still cut through, but green glue as a product works well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's kind of what I've heard and read...that bass is one of the harder things to cut transmission of.

It seems like there are all kinds of things that can be done with staggered studs, resilient channel, etc, but we ain't gettin into all that mess! Going to try to stick with the 1/2" + green glue + 1/2" formula, more or less from a cost standpoint. Still think it should prove to be a pretty adequate improvement in the STC.

That is, unless anybody else has any particularly good tricks up their sleeve... ;)
 

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Have the installer program a "night time" button on the remote to cut the bass dramatically or turn the sub off. Make smooth bends with flexible duct work to reduce sound transmission in cold air returns and supply ducts.
 

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diplomat
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Anybody ever work on a movie theater? I always wondered what their wall design was.
 

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Golden view said:
Anybody ever work on a movie theater? I always wondered what their wall design was.
20g 2x6 studs to deck with 5/8 board hung on RC channel then A layer of homasote then another layer of 5/8 each layer sound caulked and topped off to deck with fire taping the wall was filled with mineral wool couldn't yell to a guy on the other side
 

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Anybody ever work on a movie theater? I always wondered what their wall design was.
Walls between theaters are two independent walls, two 6" metal stud walls with sound batts and three layers of 5/8 to the deck. All joints get acoustical caulk. Then 2" acoustical insulation gets stapled to the drywall and curtains go over the insulation.

IMO, Green glue alone is pretty much a waste unless you are using it as part of a system. You need to slow down, isolate, absorbe, and stop sound waves. Mass and isolation is best.
 

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GCTony said:
Walls between theaters are two independent walls, two 6" metal stud walls with sound batts and three layers of 5/8 to the deck. All joints get acoustical caulk. Then 2" acoustical insulation gets stapled to the drywall and curtains go over the insulation. IMO, Green glue alone is pretty much a waste unless you are using it as part of a system. You need to slow down, isolate, absorbe, and stop sound waves. Mass and isolation is best.
In my personal opinion rock wool is a much better sound absorbing material than fiberglass. Actually it's not an opinion but a fact as "rotten Cotten" is much more dense
 
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