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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm just finishing up with a 12'X12' Redwood Deck. Today, i cut in the stairs and began brainstorming the wheelchair ramp.

I never realized how much a of healcut is on a 1:12 slope, until this afternoon...

My dilemma is, i'm using 2X8X20' ConCom joist and the Inspector obviously said "no Way" on the heals bearing on a concrete pad. I just went through my Simpson book to find a Saddle or some kind of nifty piece of hardware to use. I didn't really get any good ideas, though.
Maybe something like a HUC28Z, inverted hanger???



The only other thing i can think of is... notching at the heal cut and bearing the joists on pressure treated green plate. This option seems cheesy, because if i cut into the heal, there just won't much wood left!

I honestly tried a thread search, but got very flustered.



I'm just starving a Framer, what would the Deck "Guru's" suggest?
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What would be wrong with a treated sill to bear on, come to think of it redwood is naturally durable wood as well. 3" minimum bearing. I recently bid one and I myself. I never built one yet but I was planning on forming a concrete slab sloped with the ramp to complete the end and would also act as a cleat for the end of my joists.
 

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They let you use construction common for joist there? No treated lumber in Idaho?

The ramps I did last year the inspector here allowed the heal cut to land on concrete, TYP lumber tho.
 

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I total agree Al, using com grade redwood for joists is a no no. If fact its not real good for anything outside.


JonMon knows a really easy way to make that joint with double 2x4 pt laying flat waze. :shifty:
 

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If you do use a treated sill, make sure it is ground contact rated. Not sure what you guys get out there, but almost everything readily available here is "Above Ground Rated" SYP except for 4x6, 4x4 and 6x6. I have to special-order Ground contact stuff.
 

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There's pics of a ramp on this thread -

Here's some shots of another ramp I built - Joists taper to nothing - plywood extends beyond and lip gets screwed into concrete.

If you're using reg. untreated wood for your joists, to pass inspection, you have to have an impermeable barrier between wood and concrete.
Slap some flashing tape on the heel cut, there you go - there's your barrier.

Mac
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm pretty sure that i will end up building the frame of the landing out of landscape railroad ties. I can strategically place them directly on the dirt. They seem to hold up trains, right?

I can then cover the top with 2X6 redwood to match the deck.

I think that i can then bear the heals of the joists on the top of the redwood landing. I plan on milling down a few planks to make a smooth transition between the ramp and deck...

This deck is on an old farmhouse with absolutely NO landscaping. After standing back and studying the entire picture, i think this option will turn out pretty slick!


I've been checking this thread often, and i really value all of your input.

I'll post up pics when i can...
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Flashing Tape... NICE!!!

Thanks Mac!

I checked out your thread during my thread search, just before i started this one.
Lots of great info!!!
:notworthy
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Update...

Well, we decided to go with the concrete landings and this is what we've got so far...















I'm guessing a few members here could tear me apart with the pics that i've posted, but everything IS built to local building codes!


Now, to finish up the ramp, i think i will be bearing the heels of the joists on galvanized straps and Ramset beveled Pressure Treat to finish the slope.


Please feel free to add any suggestions!!!
:notworthy
 

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You went through all that work and couldve just done a sloped slab that flattens---- like an elevated triangle with the end notched out to pick up the end of the joist. The way you have it now it needs additional footings and the will shrink.
 

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2x6 pt vertical block between your stringers - attach blocking to concrete w/ screws or expansive anchors. Nail stringers to blocking.

That will give your wood a more secure connection to the concrete than the narrow tapered strips bearing on the concrete.

Or, if you had the room, you could have the framing set 3/4" below the concrete and have your plywood die into the edge of the concrete. That way, the transition would be better and you don't have to worry about a transition piece.

Mac
 

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