I have some folks that have a 16' garage door opening and the lintel above is not up to the job. It's bowing by maybe 1" so all the joints are cracked and they want it repaired. Anytime I've done a new construction double car garage the steel is already mounted by the framers and i'm pretty sure it's an H beam with a brickledge welded to it. If I needed to do that it would be a huge headache and I won't be doing it (too busy to really do it any way but i told them I'd give them a price)
My code book only shows up to a 10' span, which is 3/8" x 3.5"x5.5". Anyone have any span charts that go passed 10'. I'm guessing that a 1/2"x 3.5x 7.5" would do it (theres a good steel fab shop around that can get in lots of different sized angle) but I don't really know. There are 15 courses above the lintel
Oh, you mean Brunothedog and the rebar in the back of the brick??? Not for this job. Like i say, don't really want to do it, but I told them i'd give them a price and they are family of a friend
Depending on which way that roof load is displaced or other load factors that "framing" needs to include a header...e.g. LVL, built up or otherwise for you to bolt an angle to it.
I pretty sure you know this...just don't bolt into a non-load bearing gable wall or such.
Yeah that's the problem. The garage is a gable end. While obviously there is a header across the garage door, I can`t imagine it`s too much. House is too old for an LVL. At best 3- 2x12`s with some ply added, and that is doubtful.
A method we use sometimes, 2 2"X12" wood headers with a flitch plate sandwiched between them. The flitch plate is a 1/8" x 10" steel plate. We then stitch bolt bolt a 3.5" x 5.5" 1/4" angle to the header. Works every time with no problems.
We have to put spacers behind the angle iron sometimes to get it close to the face of the wall, the 3" doesn't leave much of a ledge. We use 4" x 4" x 3/8" if it is stone over the door.
For 12'-16' span, angle iron must be minimum 3" x 5" x 5/16" with 8-12" overhang on each side (that overhang would be best practice) for load bearing wall (code requires 4" minimum overhang on each side)... and that is for residential construction.
My code book stops at 10' for a 3.5x5.5x3/8" And code was changed in '99 here to 6' bearing either side, that's non load bearing, veneer only. Load bearing needs to be engineered
No one has any span charts? I've looked online and they either stop at 10' or 12'. I'm pretty certain that the one that is present is a 3.5x 5.5 x 5/16 (at a glance the steel looks like it's "the big steel")and it is not working. The house is about 40 years old and the angle is deflecting by at least 1"
The charts you are looking at are for loose angles, that is why they stop at 10 or 12 feet. Spanning a 16' opening is not a loose angle, it has to be bolted to the framing, and as such there are entirely too many variables for a simple chart.
With 3' of masonry to support and assuming a sufficient framing member, then then a 3x3x3/16 bolted 24" OC could be sufficient. It depends upon the framing, not the angle.
Yes I've been assuming loose steel lintel. You're saying the 3.5x5.5 but bolted to the framing. No idea if the framing is up to it. They have another quote, maybe I'll let the other guys do it. I have zero desire to get into adding filtch plates or adding to headers etc...
Ok, so I got the job, the couple told me what the other quote was and it was nuts, I'll make excellent money charging 1/2 of the other quote. I'm going to get a 3.5x7x 3/8 or whatever is closest and bolt into the framing. I put in a caveat for insufficient framing.
Best part is I can do it at my covenience. Since it's an easy setup I'll wait until really cold weather. thanks for the help guys
That's why I put in the caveat about the framing being adequate. Personally I doubt that it will be, but we'll see.
I know there's not supposed to be any pricing talk but.... the other guy(doing foundation work) quoted $12,000 to remove the approx 350 brick, the lintel a couple light fixtures and replace with new (except light fixtures). i figure I'll have about $1000 in materials including heat and I'll do it easy in 8 days or less myself, 5 if i can find a labourer by then, more likely a lot less, my price was a little less than 1/2 the other guys
I think the foundation guy got a quote and just doubled it. that and he probably saw an older couple who were nervous about the brick falling on their car and got crazy greedy
Prolly, but I lay stone almost as fast as I lay brick...there's 16' of soldiers as well as quoins to rebuild. Remember I didn't really want to do this job so I bid it like I was dragging my ass.
Couldn't tell you. The garage door if framed by 2x6's and the steel rests on the 2x6 along with some decorative trim. That is all bowing, but...the garage is drywalled and the drywall inside isn't cracked at all. I would think that the drywall is attached to the header.
Yeah I'll get someone to spec whatever is needed if it comes to it. I figure if there is at least 2 2x12 with some plywood and it hasn't deflected at all i'll probably live with it. The steel will still do 75% or more of the job, what is it carrying 150lbs per ft or so, and really only 1/2 that, a 3.5x7x 3/8 is a pretty decent piece of metal
Yeah it's going to be heavy. We just put in an 8' H beam at the job I'm on now, 8' x 8" wide x 6.5" high, I'm guessing at 5/16" Took 3 of us to lift it into place basically one side at a time, plus there was only 2" extra space on each side of the pocket. that sucked, but it went smoother than I would have thought. Helps when the guys you have helping are of the same mind how to go about it
you are way over with the 7" high. 3/8 4 X 4 is plenty with lags. save the folks some money and your back.
This is not rocket science, rust probably caused the initial damage. The framing from 40 years ago is better than today by far.
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