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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have some folks that have a 16' garage door opening and the lintel above is not up to the job. It's bowing by maybe 1" so all the joints are cracked and they want it repaired. Anytime I've done a new construction double car garage the steel is already mounted by the framers and i'm pretty sure it's an H beam with a brickledge welded to it. If I needed to do that it would be a huge headache and I won't be doing it (too busy to really do it any way but i told them I'd give them a price)

My code book only shows up to a 10' span, which is 3/8" x 3.5"x5.5". Anyone have any span charts that go passed 10'. I'm guessing that a 1/2"x 3.5x 7.5" would do it (theres a good steel fab shop around that can get in lots of different sized angle) but I don't really know. There are 15 courses above the lintel
 

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Who is the fella here who does flying additions and whatnot with no angle irons at all!

Crazy,

but I dont know how big to make it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh, you mean Brunothedog and the rebar in the back of the brick??? Not for this job. Like i say, don't really want to do it, but I told them i'd give them a price and they are family of a friend
 

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A method we use sometimes, 2 2"X12" wood headers with a flitch plate sandwiched between them. The flitch plate is a 1/8" x 10" steel plate. We then stitch bolt bolt a 3.5" x 5.5" 1/4" angle to the header. Works every time with no problems.
 

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Smarter than the brick...
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We have to put spacers behind the angle iron sometimes to get it close to the face of the wall, the 3" doesn't leave much of a ledge. We use 4" x 4" x 3/8" if it is stone over the door.
 

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Thanks, I've often thought about attaching the angle to the framing but never done it.
Depending on which way that roof load is displaced or other load factors that "framing" needs to include a header...e.g. LVL, built up or otherwise for you to bolt an angle to it.

I pretty sure you know this...just don't bolt into a non-load bearing gable wall or such.
 

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For 12'-16' span, angle iron must be minimum 3" x 5" x 5/16" with 8-12" overhang on each side (that overhang would be best practice) for load bearing wall (code requires 4" minimum overhang on each side)... and that is for residential construction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
For 12'-16' span, angle iron must be minimum 3" x 5" x 5/16" with 8-12" overhang on each side (that overhang would be best practice) for load bearing wall (code requires 4" minimum overhang on each side)... and that is for residential construction.
My code book stops at 10' for a 3.5x5.5x3/8" And code was changed in '99 here to 6' bearing either side, that's non load bearing, veneer only. Load bearing needs to be engineered
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Depending on which way that roof load is displaced or other load factors that "framing" needs to include a header...e.g. LVL, built up or otherwise for you to bolt an angle to it.

I pretty sure you know this...just don't bolt into a non-load bearing gable wall or such.
Yeah that's the problem. The garage is a gable end. While obviously there is a header across the garage door, I can`t imagine it`s too much. House is too old for an LVL. At best 3- 2x12`s with some ply added, and that is doubtful.

I might need to call an engineer friend
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
No one has any span charts? I've looked online and they either stop at 10' or 12'. I'm pretty certain that the one that is present is a 3.5x 5.5 x 5/16 (at a glance the steel looks like it's "the big steel")and it is not working. The house is about 40 years old and the angle is deflecting by at least 1"
 
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