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Remodeler
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure how well known Anderson patio doors are across the country but I'd like to make everyone know how AWFUL they are.

Living in MN in the flight path of Minneapolis airport, the Metropolitan Airport Commission (MAC) gives money for sound improvements (windows, doors, insulation, etc). I chose a new front door, swinging patio door, and sliding patio door. The work is contracted through Renewal by Anderson, so, even as a contractor, I was stuck having them install Anderson products.

The front door was Therma-Tru and no issues there. The swinging patio door is Anderson and other than their stupid locking system (hold handle up to lock door) it is fine as well.

The sliding patio door is the issue. It glides beautifully. It looks great.
It cannot be closed shut from the outside. That's right. The door will lock tightly with the latch ONLY from the inside. When exiting the door to the outside, the best you can do is slide it within 3/4" closed. I've had several conversations with a supervisor and have had Anderson service rep come out as well. The verdict- "It is designed to lock tight with the latch from inside". Absolute ridiculous. The value for the installation and the door was $1700. I could have gotten a $500 Home Depot special that at least closes.

I've installed Marvin, Pella, and Anderson. Anderson is by far the worst designed product. Wouldn't recommend Anderson to anyone.
 

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Remodeling Professionals
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1,267 Posts
Whoa there! Give it some time and the weatherstripping will loosen up a bit. All Andersen sliders act this way when new, the operating panel has to be shoved into the closed position and if you don't throw the latch it will pop open 1/2" or so. Does seem ridiculous but at least they don't leak. Make sure the latch side jamb is not bowed out in the middle, that will make it worse.
 

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KemoSabe
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14,233 Posts
I've installed several hundred Andersen patio doors over the years and can't say I've ever seen one that wouldn't close from the outside snugly enough to seal, at least loosely. True, they don't latch from the outside, but they are patio doors, not entry doors.

As for their hinged patio doors, lifting the handle engages the 3-point locking system, which I think is a great feature.

Dollar for dollar, I feel Andersen is of good quality and really like the appearance, fit and finish.:thumbsup:
 

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851 Posts
Yeah those Anderson doors must really suck. Maybe you should of gone with Andersen instead. Agree that not being able to install your own doors sucks but $1700.00 (depending on which series it is ) is a heck of a price. So you got a keyed lock for your door? I've always been very impressed with the lock system on the swingset doors. Really whats not to like?
 

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KemoSabe
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14,233 Posts
well hows this nice feature on an andesen out swig and what happens when you open the door past 90 deg
Can't say much about that design issue, but that bottom hinge looks like it needs to be properly adjusted. I'm pretty sure if the trim wasn't proud of the jamb, it would swing a full 180, minus the handle set. By the looks of it, the bottom leave needs to be adjusted away from the jamb. Another nice Andersen feature. The hinges are adjustable in/out:thumbsup: and up/down.
 

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Renaissance Man
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6,818 Posts
Dollar for dollar, I feel Andersen is of good quality and really like the appearance, fit and finish.:thumbsup:
agreed, except that perimeter sealant job around the glass - I've had several in which I cut out and replaced the sloppy fingerwork in the corners :shutup:
 

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agreed, except that perimeter sealant job around the glass - I've had several in which I cut out and replaced the sloppy fingerwork in the corners :shutup:
Calling bs on this one. That silicone is set with a machine. They don't use their fingers at the factory. So you've gotten exact color match sealent from the factory? Sold and installed their doors for 30 yrs and have never rebeaded the glazing and you've done several?
 

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KemoSabe
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14,233 Posts
agreed, except that perimeter sealant job around the glass - I've had several in which I cut out and replaced the sloppy fingerwork in the corners :shutup:
I've never seen any manufacturer who doesn't get some sealant squeezeout on the glazing. Agreed, sometimes it's worse than others, but for warranty purposes, I wouldn't touch it. That's what I would tell the HO too, if I ever get a complaint.:thumbsup:
 

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KemoSabe
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14,233 Posts
is it me or does that wrapped casing look like its crowding the frame? We generally case with composite brickmold and I've never had a complaint
These doors aren't delivered with brickmold. Most of the home's I've installed them in get J-channel tight to the jamb.

In any case, I could count on one hand how many times I've installed out-swings. I'm not a big fan of any outswing door, period.

If those hinges were designed with a bit more projection, it wouldn't be an issue. It might cause the door to rub on the keeper side during operation though.:whistling
 

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Renaissance Man
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6,818 Posts
Calling bs on this one. That silicone is set with a machine. They don't use their fingers at the factory. So you've gotten exact color match sealent from the factory? Sold and installed their doors for 30 yrs and have never rebeaded the glazing and you've done several?
I didn't necessarily mean fingerwork per say, although it sure looks like it. And no...i don't have factory sealant - i cut the whole bead out and re-tool myself using 100% white silicone.

What's your beef :furious:
 

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Renaissance Man
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6,818 Posts
I've never seen any manufacturer who doesn't get some sealant squeezeout on the glazing. Agreed, sometimes it's worse than others, but for warranty purposes, I wouldn't touch it. That's what I would tell the HO too, if I ever get a complaint.:thumbsup:

The Frenchwood doesn't have squeezeout - It's a machine tooled joint that looks like a finger smudge in the corners...Now the Hurd casements (wood)...that's serious sqeezeout.
 

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even if its flush it still hit i had to make the trim sit about 3/8 below the outside edge of the frame...it would hit standard 1''j,and if you were using foam...that drip detail is too big or it needs to be cut at an angle
 

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Well you could of possibly cost the homeowner the warrenty if theres ever a claim. The factory offers 4 colors thru core product. all your installs white? Why would you reglaze a door. I've seen the corner where the tip is dragged away. If it bothered you why not go over the corners a bit and leave it at that. Seriously you cut out the silicone and redid it?
 

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KemoSabe
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14,233 Posts
even if its flush it still hit i had to make the trim sit about 3/8 below the outside edge of the frame...it would hit standard 1''j,and if you were using foam...that drip detail is too big or it needs to be cut at an angle
Tom, that would be eliminated if the hinge leaves projected out, even another 1/8 inch. Swung 180, that would put the door 1/4 inch further away from the jamb. The problem is, the further the hinge projection, the faster the opening gets to tight to allow freedom of swing. Those doors don't have bevels on the latch side, so they get tight quick. I'm sure R&D at Andersen are aware of this.:whistling
 
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