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Renaissance Man
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
install will include Fypon fluted pilasters, door header and small pent roof overhead.

Capping turned out be hiding lots of sin as I unbutton this 20 year old Caradco...
 

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Renaissance Man
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
These older row houses are fun, fun ,fun. Solid masonry openings and furred with plaster on the inside make for some challenging decisions when trying to make things fit.

I'll be adding 4" plus extension jambs and 3 1/2" colonial molding in clear pine to match the interior and I'll be staining it with Minwax Pecan polyshade.

Door was ordered knock-down, so I'll be building it on site.

Beefed up the header and cemented a level threshold to start things off right.
 

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Renaissance Man
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here's the pent I built to go over the door, not much, but it's what he wanted to shed the door a bit. It'll get some down lighting when complete and it'll certainly help me flash the top of this door against driving rains.
 

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Renaissance Man
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice job! The 400 series Frenchwood is my favorite patio door hands down!
I dunno, I got a couple Marvin gliders coming up next and I do like them as well. I will add, Andersen finally stopped gooping sealant to the exterior perimeter glazing. I always bitched about this as I've had many with bubbles and imperfections in the sealant and it freaks me out.

Don't know when they stopped this, but it's only on the corners and bottom now :thumbup: Very nice door it is... I would agree!
 

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Always Learning
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superseal said:
I dunno, I got a couple Marvin gliders coming up next and I do like them as well. I will add, Andersen finally stopped gooping sealant to the exterior perimeter glazing. I always bitched about this as I've had many with bubbles and imperfections in the sealant and it freaks me out.

Don't know when they stopped this, but it's only on the corners and bottom now :thumbup: Very nice door it is... I would agree!
We have only ever installed one Marvin slider and it does still operate perfect after 12 plus years. The A-series from Andersen are decent as well!
 

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trim carpenter/remodeler
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I dunno, I got a couple Marvin gliders coming up next and I do like them as well. I will add, Andersen finally stopped gooping sealant to the exterior perimeter glazing. I always bitched about this as I've had many with bubbles and imperfections in the sealant and it freaks me out.

Don't know when they stopped this, but it's only on the corners and bottom now :thumbup: Very nice door it is... I would agree!
About 1 1/2 years ago was when I started seeing them like this.

I am seeing some doors that have air space at the top of the stat panel. From the inside of the unit, look at the top where the doors meet. If you see any daylight, remove the three screws in the head bracket on the outside and move the panel in about 1/16" or so
 

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Renaissance Man
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Since the Eagles suck and it was so nice out today,...I decided to go in for a few hours and hang the roof and get whatever else I could get done. A little jump start on the week if you will as the weather is a changing around these parts.

Anyway, fypon crosshead needs 7" clearance from top of door so that's where I set it.

Used stainless 5/8" sleeve anchors 5 1/2" long and they went in nicely. Each one grabbed like they should so no problems with this thing going anywhere anytime soon.
 

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Renaissance Man
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Put another coat of Pecan Polyshade on the interior and finished up the shingling and flashing work.

Tomorrow I'll run some soffit and fascia capping along with some LED lights and that'll wrap up the roof. Fypon should be in shortly so I'm told, then I can get this job done so I can sneak a round of golf in before the weather really turns :sad:
 

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Renaissance Man
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
First thing on the docket today is spot point a couple of holes and cracks in the brickwork in close proximity to my roof...This wall needs cleaning and pointing, but for now, I gotta make this flashing work :whistling

Next up is furring out the soffit area since I'll be running Alcoa protech perpendicular to the house. Looks like the light cans will fit just right :thumbup:

A little vent on either end and solid down the middle, a little fascia capping and flashing sealant work and this roof is a wrap :clap:
 

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Renaissance Man
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
The light housings are simple 4" CE damp location rated cans and I'm using retrofit 12W LED plug-ins. Super simple even a superseal could do it :whistling

51,000 + hours lamp life, the brightness of a 50W incandescent which burns cool, plug and play,... it's all good :thumbup:

They're even on a gimbal in case the guy wants to screw around with them a bit :rolleyes:

Wonder if that fypon will be in tomorrow, could really use it right about now...
 

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Renaissance Man
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Raining pretty good this morning so I was in no rush to get to work... did however stop over a put the forth and final coat of polyshade on the interior and since it mostly stopped raining decided to hang a storm door that was also part of this project.

What a dreary day :sad:
 

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Renaissance Man
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So my Fypon order took longer than expected to get in and I scooted to another job in the meantime... It ended up coming in last Monday, so I picked it up from Allied later in the week.

Finally un-boxed it today so I could paint it up prior to install tomorrow and it was a perfect day for paint...60+ degs., very sunny and quite windy. Loaded the HVLP with MAB Sea Shore acrylic semi and shot away. That paint was dry before it even hit the surface :thumbup:

I gave the owner the choice of fluted with the plinth built in or the two piece pilaster/plinth block assembly. He chose the one piece, rather then me seaming in the plinth, but it comes at a cost I told him...They only make them 90" and the excess gets cut off the bottom only. With the one piece pilaster, we'll be chopping off most of the plinth block and will be breaking the golden rule of the plinth being 1.5 to 2 times the width in height. He seemed fine with it so that's what I ordered.

Bottom line is this...Plinth measures in at 13+ inches and is door is a standard 6'8"/80" inches in height. I'll be walloping off about 9" of that plinth for my fit and I'm beginning to think it might look a little funny with only 4" to 5" max left exposed.

Anyone else feeling my pain?

I could shave some off some of the top if I really had too,... thinkin' maybe removing some of the flat stock that extends between the two top projections on the pilaster to gain a few inches on the plinth.

Suggestions welcome!
 

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Always Learning
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It means more work...can you take it out of the middle and glue/biscuit/pocket screw it back together? Paint it and call it done? Maybe too much time involved...show the client what they will end up with and see if they will cover the extra time...
 

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Renaissance Man
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It means more work...can you take it out of the middle and glue/biscuit/pocket screw it back together? Paint it and call it done? Maybe too much time involved...show the client what they will end up with and see if they will cover the extra time...
The owner already agreed to it as far as I'm concerned...it's just my anal retentiveness that's driving me to find a slightly better balance without spending too much time.

I was hoping to make the splice at a projection so I could easily hide it. I think I'll just make sure he's there in the morning to confirm this is what he wants.
 

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That Fypon kits looks cool. Wouldn't be in love with tiny plinths, but most people would probably never notice it.
 

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Renaissance Man
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So my layout only left 3" of plinth block and I told the owner I really think it's going to look odd if we don't do something.

Another idea popped into my head to just shave off the top molding complete... Made the suggestion and he agreed :thumbup: I mean, this is a back door and top is pretty ornate as it is. It wouldn't change the appearance much and we get to keep more plinth which IMO is more aesthetically pleasing.

Damn good Idea that was :whistling :thumbup:

Man, had to wear the hoodie today...much colder and super windy, going into the 20"s tonight.
 

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Renaissance Man
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Since when have they had white tapcons :blink: No matter the color actually, the heads will be buried anyway.

Fypon needs to be secured mechanically and glued to the substrate or so says the specifications.

PL premium is the choice of adhesives, in combination with stainless trim screws and tapcons for the masonry. Full perimeter glue and fasteners at 12" O.C. and it's up.

Perimeter will receive Quad sealant once the glue sets up and I'll sand, prime and paint the fastener fill/MH ready patch tomorrow. One final shot of paint, a little threshold work and this one's a wrap.
 

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