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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a commercial vinyl tile 12X12... i think it's called vinyl....heck, im a carpenter not a tile man... hence the need for advice...

Its a 10'x10' laundry room, has com vinyl tile now.... has some holes in it from i assume moving the fridge, appliances around... about 15 years old... can the holes be filled and lay over the old with new? What's the best adhesive to use if it can be done? Any other tips... tricks you care to share... Much appreciated... I know nothing about vinyl tile... just doing this for a H/O that has been very good to me and want to get the job done right for him...

There is a wash/ dry, fridge and freezer that will have to be taken out and put back in... how long should i wait to put back on the new tile?


About all i know about this job is that i know how to cut and measure
(in that order:thumbsup::laughing:)
and how to lift appliances... That's about it and that if it can be over layed... it might be good to offset the joints from the new and old tiles.... just guessing that'd be good to do... I cant say for sure what brand of tile it is.... there's no box.... no literature, no instructions... was bought at a yard sale i guess. These are good folks that are kins old and on a set income... so i want to do a good job and use what they have.... can this be done? I told him i would ask the pro's here on the site and get back to him on do'ability.

Any help appreciated.
 

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Flooring Guru
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offsetting the joints are a great idea and highly recommended.
You can strip the old floor to make sure the adhesive sticks to the old product. Who knows what was put on there in the first place. Wax? Get it off of there.
Fill any holes with portland based cement.
Use the proper adhesive from the manufacturer.

Remember, any lifting of the old product, will transfer over to your new floor.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks wizard...

I wouldnt have thought to strip the floor... thanks for that one!!!!
Any good pruducts to strip with any reccomendations?

Adhesive is a big ???? for me too.... I got no clue... but what ever it is will probably come from local box store....

as far as cure time??? Read the directions on the glue i guess right?

The biggest hole is maybe half a golf ball in size. others are just nicks.

Thanks again in advance, "one time floor man"
 

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Flooring Guru
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Armstrong floor stripper - found at any flooring store.

Armstrong 750 adhesive - also found at above mentioned store

yes...please read instructions and use correct trowel.
 
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You have to learn the difference between vinyl, linoleum and VCT. Commercial vinyl tiles are mostly VCT but can also be pure vinyl (PVC).

If it's VCT you can use "clear thin spread". Key word to pay attention to here is THIN. read the instructions on the side of the pail and use the small notch trowel shown on the instructions. THIN THIN THIN. Too much glue is the biggest and most common mistake.

If there's an "embossed" surface on the existing tiles you'l have to smooth that with an leveling product. If the existing tile is smooth, sound and solid it will make a perfect subfloor and you can just patch any holes and cracks. Strip off any wax and let that dry thoroughly before you do any patching. Don't layout the seams to overlap----common sense. Let the adhesive dry fully before you lay into it. Smoke a cig, go have lunch, make a few phone calls. DONT LAY INTO WET GLUE!!!!!!

Most appliances are pretty lightweight and can be lifted and slid into place easily without damage to a new vinyl tile floor. If you've got some 1950 cast iron 10,00 pound machines cover the floor with luan or masonite and roll it in with professional moving dollies. NO PLASTIC WHEELS-----EVER! Are you crazy? Take those plastic wheels off all your appliances and all moving dollies. Throw them right in the dumpster. If you meet the guy who invented them insult his looks, his heritage and his mother's cooking. If someone tries to rent you or loan you a dolly with plastic wheels give him a dirty look and exclude him from your next party.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Awesome guys... thanks... i would have read the instructions on the adhesive...but would not have guess the adhesive needed to dry first.... cool... i feeel like there's hope yet!!!!! Wish me luck guys... will let ya'll know when i get the job done and how i did. Could be a few days.

Anyhow, once again... CT is an awesome wealth of knowledge and helpful as having a third hand... "preciate it guys... have a good'n.
 

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Interior Renovations
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Keep a rag and some mineral spirits with you. Wipe of any excess glue that may squeeze up when you put the tiles together right away. I know the glue should be tacky and not be able to ooze, but it seems to always happen somewhere...
 

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Keep a rag and some mineral spirits with you. Wipe of any excess glue that may squeeze up when you put the tiles together right away. I know the glue should be tacky and not be able to ooze, but it seems to always happen somewhere...
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It's a better idea to scoop up that goober before you lay over it. The glue will dry clear. Any wet spots will be very yellow just like it comes out of the bucket. Wipe, smear or scrape the wet spot away so none comes up between the tile. This is pretty important. It's not a good idea to go rag and solvent happy smearing glue all over the face of the tile and into the seam. My rags and thinner live out on the truck. It's rare that I have to clean VCT with any solvent. I'm a professional.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Guys, the floor turned out friggin excellent... so glad i came here for the tips and tricks. I did buy rags and mineral spirits... glad to announce they lived in the van and will get returned... unopened...:clap:

That make me a pro? i really liked this vct stuff... i can see the trick is to let the glue dry very well.... as i did. And be carefull when applying the glue...

It looks excellent. i couldnt be prouder. the joints looked good, i cut it in nice and used a jambsaw on the door trims... Levele dout nice with the floor patch i used (Kinda gritty stuff) but looks perfect and seems stuck really good.

The only thing i need to know now is what should i have charged for the job? tree fiddy? I got a fifty five dollar tip. no joke. i only charged the guy 200 for the job. Originally he wanted laminate... i said i would do it... but the water scared me (utility room) he took the advice and got vct instead... was more work, took longer but i feel it was the right way to go. He was pleased and i even waited for his wife to paint to put all the appliances back in a couple days later.

Was a success in every way, thanks guys. Ct saves the day once again. If you ever have any shingle questions let me know... my specialty... peace, and thanks again.
 

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You did remember to seal it all before they go and get it wet somehow didn't you?:whistling
 
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