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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have zero interest in the wood haters talking about how they hate wood. :whistling;) Transcends and Fiberon are great, but some clients want a patina'd Ipe deck.

In the past Ive used mineral spirits to wipe down the back side of the ipe and using Liquid Nails, now we have been using TB III and mineral spirits. Always EB - TY for me.

What do the pros use on oily wood like Ipe?

Thanks in advance. :thumbsup:
 

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Must admit, I've never done that with decking, it's always oiled.
When I'm working with Teak, I wipe it with laquer thinner, then varnish.
Skip the varnish.
Why not just let it age naturally?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I wipe it down so the glue will stick to the joists. Oil reacts negatively with water based glue.

THIS deck will age and grey naturally.
 
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GC/carpenter
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According to Redwood use Tite Bond 3 as quickly as possible on the ends. You can get better info from the wood guys on here.
 

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John Hyatt
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I am not sure I understand all of your inquire.
'
I don't wipe the Ipe down at all top side or bottom side I can't see the reason to do that.

When we back up the fasteners I use tightbond construction adhesive the non green kind on the joists.

Tightbond 111 or 11 or the construction adhesive used on any SA lumber needs no prep.

JonMon www.deckmastersllc.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ive never wiped down the topside, just the bottom side to remove the surface oils. I realize the oils from in the wood could still neutralize the adhesive, but it allows it time to setup. That was my thought process anyway. Probably read it in JLC or DB when I started doing it.

Good to know that its not necessary, its time consuming.

BTW, its TB 3 we use as well. Just always confuse 2 for 3 and think of 2 as TB. Lol
 

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John Hyatt
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Back in the day some recommended wiping the SA with acetone if you can believe it. These were the same Folks crying about voc. Acetone is solid voc. Funny World.

After 15 years + putting down SA lumber I can say without any hesitation there is no chemical prep needed. It has to be " clean " of course but You already know that.

Using the clips with Ipe the install should include adhesive on the joists. Not really for the hold down power but to somewhat even out the bad mill that comes with PT lumber and provide a layer of protection from the water leaving the frame in the first few important weeks.

The popping sound that happens sometimes when the Wallet walks on a clip deck is a common complaint. Heavy bodied adhesive will reduce your chances of this condition. Also be sure and follow the clip instructions do not jam up the boards into the little clip trying to make the clip/screw not show.

Go Get Em JawMan !

JonMon www.deckmastersllc.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Fortunately for me I made that mistake with pushing the boards together on my old bosses time when I was right out of high school.

He caught it during install though.

Get back on the biscuit cutter, Rook. Lol
 

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I am not sure I understand all of your inquire.
'
I don't wipe the Ipe down at all top side or bottom side I can't see the reason to do that.

When we back up the fasteners I use tightbond construction adhesive the non green kind on the joists.

Tightbond 111 or 11 or the construction adhesive used on any SA lumber needs no prep.

JonMon www.deckmastersllc.com
J I think Jaws means he is wiping the bottom of the ipe clean of it's natural oil to help it adhere as a back up for the clips. You use face screws and plugs so your process would require / need a cleaning.

Jaws. I never use clips and wood framing. I have used clips with metal framing and only once. I did use triple poly adhesive caulk but did not wipe back of ipe at all. I got it from my mason supply house use it for almost everything. It is incredibly strong to the point of breaking plywood on another project or having to cut the board with sawzaw from joist. I did visit the deck recently after 7-months of install and a really hard winter for some add ons and except for the normal shrinking of ipe wood there no creeking or movement that could find. I walk stopped and jumped on the all of the 1500sf of it and nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Why no clips? We have done a few dozen with clips and both glues and never had a problem. Are you getting are dried or kiln dried?

The reason I posted the topic was just out of curiosity to what adhesive yall are using, but I am curious to hear all installation methods pluses and minuses.
 

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I've never wiped down any ipe before glueing. Have always used pl400 for the glue, works well. I've seen those Eb-ty's fail so I never used them, always the Extreme Ipe Clip because it uses a screw into the ipe decking not just the joist. Those that I saw that failed may not have used glue, I don't know.

Did one in Bluelake last month with the decking running on a 45 degree angle with the clips, that was a first. I've got some pics on my phone I'll post up a little later.
 

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Why no clips? We have done a few dozen with clips and both glues and never had a problem. Are you getting are dried or kiln dried?

The reason I posted the topic was just out of curiosity to what adhesive yall are using, but I am curious to hear all installation methods pluses and minuses.
Jaws, couple of reasons.
good question and i can't remember if it's kiln or not.
You can still see the clips in between.
I've seen several other ipe decks that developed way too many waves as the ipe moved and settled with ebty. Not being a pris we all know the chit moves but these were pretty bad.
most of my ipe decks are installed face screwed rock solid install virtually no movement. super stable. we city folk actually like the stainless steel screw head contrast. No offense but it's an urban thing..;) and it really looks good when it grays out and of course kept clean.
We've also done a lot of removable panels which are face screwed or deck master hidden fastener system again zero movement.
I have to make sure my stuff is super strong for the ipe because most of my installs are 8"-24" off the ground or my case roof which = poor air flow. How high off the ground are yours? The height is the biggest culprit to the movement. not so much the clips.
The issue with clips is that stay put and the wood moves and when it settles gapping is all over the place. I'm not saying this is a law install by any means but we are all in very different climates and that makes it a game changer.
 

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Getting glue to not fail with ipe is quite intricate and not needed for the joist to decking connection. Al, and I do things the exact same, even exact same material.

PL400 (big tube) applied liberally, ipe extreme black clips, extra 300 plugs, using a rubber mallet and hardwood wrench.

The PL seems to have been the best for holding and keeping creeks to a minimum. Holding is the glues secondary job in this instance because with the clips, the ipe is still mechanically held down. To get ipe to stick and actually stay put is a long and tedious process, west system 106 is the only thing I've found that works.
 

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Are all/any of you using Vycor on your joists? Does this change your gluing process?
i always use grace tape with clips and pt framing along with metal when doubled. I don't normally clip ipe. Now with that said If did use clips they on wood framework or metal I would use tiger. At least they teeth to lock up the deck boards.
 
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