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Nick R said:
I'm finishing up painting new cabinets with BM Advance paint. It's a family job so I thought I'd do it myself with brush an rollers for the first time. It looks good so far.
I sprayed some Advance some months ago with my Fuji Q4, and I must say it laid down very well. Thinned it 15% with water.
 

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I've done this thing just about every way possible.

If you roll and brush it (which can be done) use the best possible paint and foam rollers/brushes available. I did it that way 20 years ago with Hasolac (?) and it was $80 (?) a gallon back then.
The cabs came out great, but it was just MDF slabs with an eased edge....cakewalk.

I did my own cabs (raised panel, inset, beaded face frame (cherry to white)) with an airless at the end of a full-gut reno. I made a couple mistakes, like sealing off the room entirely to avoid dust infiltration......it took FOREVER for the coats to dry and I still have a couple minor runs to remind me what an idiot I was. It made some sense because I was able to spray the trim and wainscoting too. Basically stood in the middle of the room and spun in circles with the trigger pulled:whistling.
I just used a quality oil primer and a decent latex interior semi-gloss and the finish has held up remarkably well (considering it is basically a "guy" house and we sling coffee and ketchup around like savages). Basically looks like the day I sprayed it 6 years ago.

I have also sprayed many cabs for clients with the airless, out in my shop (note: no "spray booth") with very good results.....albeit with lots of careful cleaning, prep and between coat scuffage. You will waste a bunch of paint on overspray....but is $50-100 worth of paint better than the alternative costs?

Then.....I got smarter...or just more educated....or just less willing to go guerilla-style, and bought a nice Fuji HVLP. It still doesn't push latex the way I would like it to, but it is definitely the best option of the three. And I still spray in the shop......as long as it's not too windy (it's hard to get ALL that sawdust off the top of light fixtures, speakers, etc.).

I am by no means questioning the cabinet gods or saying these are by any means the "best" methods....just saying you can certainly get good results without dropping $5k.
 

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I have a client (sister-inlaw) that I am doing a fair sized Reno for. We have decided that painting the cabinets is the way we will go. She had a painter come in and do a sample. She was very unhappy with the brush strokes.

So we have decided I will spray them. I don't have much exp with this. But I would like to do this and then do my own kitchen. Also I have clients who on occasion ask to have vanities painted.

I guess I'm looking for advice on what paint to use, what sealer, as well as what sprayer?

I am looking at a
Titan
XT290 Paint Sprayer
Not sure what tip I should use though?

Thanks for any advice guys


You should take her to a high end cabinet showroom and let her see that it's quite expensive for a hand finished brushed on finish . It's really nice if done correctly and on the appropriate style cabinets and doors . You can't see the brush strokes unless your close up .
 

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I agree 100%.You do not need to drop 5K to get good results.Just use good prep and buy the best equipment you can.This goes like anything else.Depends on how much you will use it?I always buy thinking I will use it if I have good equipment to use to do the job.JMO
 

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If you are shooting paint, get a pressure pot. It allows thou to dial in the fluid delivery pressure to the viscosity of the material. A turbine unit only has so many pounds of pressure available to pressurize the cup. With a pot you do not have that limitation. A gun attached to a pot will be the easiest gun you'll ever clean.

Mix latex pain t with a propeller mixer before spraying, it will spray and lay down much better.

I have a FP 395 AAA, still prefer my Fuji connected to a pot for finishing.

Tom
 

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clean, sand and degloss all areas.

spray prime with either a quality alkyd enamel underbody or bonding primer like XIM.

Fill, caulk , sand again and spot prime again.

sand (220) vac and tac

thin and spray either Oil Impervo or the New Advance.

The new purple Titan fine finish tips work great.

We have used this process hundreds of times.
 

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The last set of cabinets I did we used Stix Bonding Primer under BM Advance Satin. Sprayed one coat of each after cleaning, sanding, filling, sanding, etc. We used a Titan 400 with a fine finish tip. Just take proper precautions spraying the Stix stuff, it is nasty.
 

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All good reply's so far. It IS a big investment to do it right, and if you want professional results, your going to have to buy professional grade sprayers.

This dining room was burled walnut and mahogany and the the home owner wanted it painted. (I know, it killed me to do it) I sanded, cleaned, and sprayed Bin primer with my Graco 490 airless. The finish was sprayed with my Graco AAA sprayer.
wow, wtf is wrong with those people!
 
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