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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all --

I have a customer who wants to dress up their current stock cabinets with some raised end panels matching their doors. I have no problem making the raised panels, and they will be painting everything so matching isn't a problem either --- my concern is how to make these end panels look integral to the cabinet as opposed to slapped on like they are.

Anyone had any experience with this? The picture below is applying a 3/4" raised panel with rails/stiles right to the side of the cabinet and to me doesn't look very good --- seems an obvious add-on. I am looking for a way to make it look integral to the side of the cabinet.

Current cabinets are overlay doors with a face frame that extends about 3/16" past the cabinet sides

Thanks!
 

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Depends on what the client is looking for and what they want to spend .In the picture you provided I would have built out the top of the cabinet to match the end panel and changed out the molding.This would be more expense than it's worth IMHO.You also have to look at stain matching.Once you get into it and it's not what they invisioned And not perfect they won't be happy.This is why I usually try and pass on a job like this.Even after it is done the stile on that side will be 3/4" wider than the rest.Customers don't usually see these things unless you explain it ahead of time.After the job is done it's to late.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Agreed...

You are right. I am thinking the only way to make this look authentic may be to deconstruct the cabinet and rebuild the entire side out of the raised panel so that it is flush with the face frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok i'm having a good conversation w/ myself but sometimes that's the best way to figure it out eh? haha....

anyway after looking at the cabinets in the last link I posted, I am thinking of either trimming the face frame flush with the side of the cabinet and attaching the panel, or shimming the panel out and attaching it. It would add some width to the face frame, but it seems to me to be the best looking option.
 

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What we often do is add a finished 3/16" panel to the side of the cabinet tight to the back of the face frame, making the side of the cabinet flush. Then size the panel to have the same reveal as the other doors.

Done correctly, they will be looking for the handle, so they can open the door. (So DON'T put handles on them!)

-TH
 

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Given they are headed for a paint job, if you could extend the end stile with a 45 degree bevel your options may look better than just applying a door panel directly to the existing finished end.

This is what I call a frame and panel end.



Room Cupboard Wardrobe Furniture Door


This is a mitered door panel end.



Furniture Chest of drawers Drawer Floor Hardwood

Either one may be challenging to pull off on a remodel basis but if you come up with a quality technique it would be more pleasing than an applied overlay door.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What we often do is add a finished 3/16" panel to the side of the cabinet tight to the back of the face frame, making the side of the cabinet flush. Then size the panel to have the same reveal as the other doors.

Done correctly, they will be looking for the handle, so they can open the door. (So DON'T put handles on them!)

-TH

thanks Thill - I'm with you here... Gus, those pictures look beautiful, but they are inset doors and I am dealing with partial overlay doors...so I don't think I can take the same approach.

Thill, do you have do do anything for the seam between the 3/16" panel and the face frame? and what do you use --- planed down hardwood for that panel?

I am thinking this is the way to go with my overlay doors. what threw me off was that first picture I posted that I found online -- it is just done so poorly and doesn't match the reveal that I think it looks awful.

thanks for the suggestions!
 

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Why not remove the side of the cabinet and cut back the top,bottom and back while leaving the face frame as is .Obviously your going to take down the cabinet but it can be done and the end result is going to be what your looking for . I have done it many times with good results . Just run it through the table saw .Shouldn't take more than an hour from start to finish .
 

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What Thill said is best .
When you add the 3/16 panel flush to the extended stile the new "door" will slightly overlay the seam and everything will blend
Bill T
 

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Gus Dering said:
Given they are headed for a paint job, if you could extend the end stile with a 45 degree bevel your options may look better than just applying a door panel directly to the existing finished end. This is what I call a frame and panel end. This is a mitered door panel end. Either one may be challenging to pull off on a remodel basis but if you come up with a quality technique it would be more pleasing than an applied overlay door.
Just curious do you miter these or butt them and trim sand flush with the face frame. I would assume these are applied in the shop and left a little proud of the back of the cabinet for scribing. Thanks!
 

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Bjackson3 said:
Just curious do you miter these or butt them and trim sand flush with the face frame. I would assume these are applied in the shop and left a little proud of the back of the cabinet for scribing. Thanks!
Yes, we don't reface or remodel cabinets so everything is done in the shop. This is why I said this might work for you "if" you could come up with a good technique that would paint well.

For scribe at the wall, I make the stile at the wall wider and the extra width is beyond the back so it can be scribed off.

Here is a link to a thread I started years ago on how those parts would be beveled on the table saw.

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/beveled-edge-tutorial-56493/
 
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