Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Repair/Remodeling Tech.
Joined
·
1,645 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'll try to use the correct terminology, but bear with me :) ....

I currently have a Carrier A/C unit outside, and (of course) a Carrier....what?....Air handler (? name) and A-coil (? name) inside the house. For heat, at this moment, I have a boiler....a very temperamental boiler that I'm kind of getting tired of messing with every year (meaning, have someone come out and do something to it to make it work).

Ok, I've done a little research and I'm wanting to confirm (or not) that what I THINK I'm seeing, and somewhat understanding, is correct. It looks like all I'd need to do to add heat to the current....air handler/AC unit inside is to basically put a heater coil in the path of the air coming out of the blower and into the ductwork and into the house. Is it really that "simple"?

Obviously, the thermostat wires that make the boiler fire up (in theory anyway....sometimes) would have to be moved to the...board(?) in the inside unit. Or maybe just a new thermostat wire brought down from the thermostat so it's all in one cable? Or even if I have to get a different thermostat (are they different between a gas boiler system vs. an electric forced air system?)

Now to be a little more specific....if you're still here, thanks for sticking with me.

The inside air handler/AC unit is Carrier model # FV4BNF003 . One of the "Approved Accessories" is KFCEH**01C10. So I found this:


Ok, I've also watched some videos, although not Carrier specific....so is it correct that I could:

  • buy that
  • take off a cover plate inside the air handler, above the squirrel cage, put that unit in it's place
  • wire it into the already pre-wired Molex plug
  • connect the line voltage wires to the 240 near that access hole
  • connect the thermostat wires (new ones or whatever)

and I would then have "central heat" in my house?

This is why I used the term "simple" above...not to take anything away from guys that understand this stuff, but it seems pretty straight forward.


This ended up longer than I hoped, but any insight...suggestions...tips...advice...screaming "You're dead wrong...it don't work like that" at your monitor...or anything else would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,485 Posts
Its pretty much that easy. Of course you will need to run a 6 gauge wire to the air handler to operate it and the heater. 10 KW of resistance heat at 240 volts is 42 amps. Which will get you 34,130 BTUs of heat. Whether or not that is enough to heat your house, I don't know. Might be enough, or it might only heat your house to 50 degrees when its 20 degrees outside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,039 Posts
I found the installation manual online.

No reason the heating coil should not work.

Not sure where your located, 10KW is just over 34,000 BTU's. Will that be enough heat for your location and home?

(Just noticed beenthere beat me to this when I hit post)

Tom
 

·
Repair/Remodeling Tech.
Joined
·
1,645 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Yea I was just figuring the amps for 10,000 watts. I'll check out the current wiring and adjust if necessary. The wiring I can do...HVAC aint really my thing, but when I saw the procedure, I thought I'd ask and go from there, and maybe give it a shot. As far as if 10K is enough...I'll have to look into that also. 34K BTU...got it, I'll check it out. Do they even make a coil bigger than 10K? I didn't see one, but I haven't dug into this REAL deep yet...quick google search, ya know.

Thanks for everything so far fellas...very much appreciated.
 

·
Repair/Remodeling Tech.
Joined
·
1,645 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Ok, nevermind on the last question. I see some of the other "approved accessories" are 15K...20K. That's great. I don't mind going bigger, even if it's rarely needed...reduces the strain on the unit, right (that's how I'll justify it in my mind lol). Looks like the last 2 digits of the model number are the KW of that coil. But of course, that turns 40ish amps into 80ish amps...much bigger cable, but that's doable.

Keep it coming folks....I'm learning, slowly but surely. Thanks again to both that have already offered into my education, and to any that may help along the way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,093 Posts
Hopefully your electric costs are cheaper than they are in the Northeast

People with electric heat here are having $800-$1000 monthy electric bills in the winter
 

·
Administrator
Maker of Fine Sawdust
Joined
·
45,382 Posts
MIght think about trading over to a heat pump with supplemental heating coils. Probably a task for next spring though.
 

·
Repair/Remodeling Tech.
Joined
·
1,645 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
From my tiny research on that specific thought, the heat pump would be in the outside unit if at all right? It may be one. I'll have to look into that too now. I'll see if I can find a model number on the outside unit and see what I come up with. And all of this might be a spring project. The boiler is working......again.......so far.

Thanks to all, again. (I know, broken record, but I'm taking it all in, believe me)



....for those under about 25, records are vinyl music carriers, basically....and when they get scratched or "broken", they skip back to the last groove and repeat the same line or 2 over and over.... :p
 

·
Administrator
Maker of Fine Sawdust
Joined
·
45,382 Posts
I think the only thing you have to do is match the condenser and air handler for sizing. Then the thermostat will have to be swapped out to a heat pump model, lots of times you can order the thermostat with the unit. As far as I know cooling needs are usually half of what heating needs are. So it might not be enough to keep the house warm in the dead of winter.

I can cool my shop with a 48K BTU (4 ton) AC unit but it would be tough to heat it with the same. I use a 175KBTU heater to keep warm. Most of the extra capacity is to bring the temps up from the cold (35-45F) in the morning. After that it could maintain with 48K.
 

·
Repair/Remodeling Tech.
Joined
·
1,645 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Lots to consider and research, but I have time...I think (fingers crossed). I know (think) a lot of this is region specific, so I'll keep that in mind too.

(broken record here)....again, everybody. :)

Keep em coming....I'm learning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,039 Posts
What type of issues are you having with the boiler? May be better to learn how to service the boiler.

Tom
 

·
Repair/Remodeling Tech.
Joined
·
1,645 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Lets see...past 5 years, it's needed lit every year. 2 new gas valves.

I'm sure none of that is directly the boiler's fault....but yes it may very well be from 1940 lol
 

·
Administrator
Maker of Fine Sawdust
Joined
·
45,382 Posts
So get a new high efficiency gas boiler to replace it. It'll probably pay for itself in 3 years if your old one is that old.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,093 Posts
I think it's a bad idea to go from gas to electric heat, you could pay for a new gas unit in a few years with the fuel savings
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top