Accurate miter tip

3373 Views 18 Replies 13 Participants Last post by Leo G, Nov 16, 2009

Gus Dering

Discussion Starter · Nov 6, 2009

This is an easy trick for a fast and accurate miter.

In this first pic you can see that I scribed the piece for length and moved the mark up on top of the stick.
That plywood ripping is slightly wider than my work piece and will use that in the next pic

Now I cut partially through the plywood and don't let the thing move afterward.

There is my saw kerf to line up my mark with. Just don't spaz out and move the ripping while you line up the work piece.

Then just cut it. Works fast and easy. And if your eye ain't what it used to be, it's a whole lot more accurate. Enjoy.:thumbsup:

See less See more

4

Reactions: 2

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

WarnerConstInc.

· #2 · Nov 6, 2009

That Omga doesn't have lasers???
My cheap kapex has dual ones. (never liked lasers untill now)

Good tip Gus, sometimes those little things slip right past people.

CookeCarpentry

· #3 · Nov 6, 2009

Gus Dering said:
Just don't spaz out...

That is one handy piece of advice no matter the project or circumstance. :thumbsup:

Warren

· #4 · Nov 6, 2009

WarnerConstInc. said:
That Omga doesn't have lasers???
My cheap kapex has dual ones. (never liked lasers untill now)

Good tip Gus, sometimes those little things slip right past people.

I will buy a saw with a laser when the laser actually cuts the wood.

WarnerConstInc.

· #5 · Nov 6, 2009

Warren said:
I will buy a saw with a laser when the laser actually cuts the wood.

I am officially over sneaking up on a cut now.

KMac

· #6 · Nov 6, 2009

Damn that's slick! Thanks Gus!

Gus Dering

Discussion Starter · #7 · Nov 6, 2009

WarnerConstInc. said:
That Omga doesn't have lasers???
My cheap kapex has dual ones. (never liked lasers untill now)

Good tip Gus, sometimes those little things slip right past people.

Next thing ya know you are gunna want a robot to cut stuff for ya.:whistling

Who do you think you are George Jetson?:no:

Where the heck is my jetpack anyway? Thought we would have those by now

KennMacMoragh

· #8 · Nov 6, 2009 (Edited)

I don't get it :huh:

I never have a problem cutting miters though. I find they just take some planning, you go about it differently depending on what you're building.

O.k I get it now, it's so you can see where the blade is going to cut. I use my speed square, but I guess that works.

WarnerConstInc.

· #9 · Nov 6, 2009

Robot, you mean a CNC?:shifty::whistling:laughing:

Gus Dering

Discussion Starter · #10 · Nov 6, 2009

WarnerConstInc. said:
Robot, you mean a CNC?:shifty::whistling:laughing:

Yes, Warner, the proverbial "Hard Stuff"

You can paint yours green if you want.:laughing:

basswood

· #11 · Nov 6, 2009

Hey Gus,

The method you show is similar to how I use my "auxiliary fence and table set up". You did a nice job of showing how to get very accurate miters. It also has the benefit of being zero clearance, so no "exit wounds." Clean cutting.

Many trim carps use fairly sloppy reveals (3/16" +or- 1/16", so they never dial in the accuracy. Your method does help bring the accuracy of trim carpenters into the tighter tolerances of the cabinet makers... which is where they should be.:thumbup:

Cheers,

Bass

WarnerConstInc.

· #12 · Nov 6, 2009

Gus Dering said:
Yes, Warner, the proverbial "Hard Stuff"

You can paint yours green if you want.:laughing:

I would end up making a bunch of 'Chrome Naked Lady's' out of Azek if I had a CNC!!:laughing:

WNYcarpenter

· #13 · Nov 7, 2009

Thanks gus:thumbsup:....

I switch between a chop box and a slide on site. I prefer the chop box (smaller, lighter), but it's hard to line up the tooth/mark like I do with the slide....

Gus Dering

Discussion Starter · #14 · Nov 7, 2009

basswood said:
Hey Gus,

The method you show is similar to how I use my "auxiliary fence and table set up". You did a nice job of showing how to get very accurate miters. It also has the benefit of being zero clearance, so no "exit wounds." Clean cutting.

Many trim carps use fairly sloppy reveals (3/16" +or- 1/16", so they never dial in the accuracy. Your method does help bring the accuracy of trim carpenters into the tighter tolerances of the cabinet makers... which is where they should be.:thumbup:

Thanks Bass,
I was mitering nosing pieces for the counter top in that cnc video. I have been doing things this way for a long time and it dawned on me that there would be some guys that would benefit from this simple technique. The back up on the cut is a good thing too.

No big deal but it sure does help when your eyes are shot and you can't afford one of those fancy ass green saws with the laser guided blade.:whistling

Cheers,

Bass

WarnerConstInc. said:
I would end up making a bunch of 'Chrome Naked Lady's' out of Azek if I had a CNC!!:laughing:

Nice:thumbup:
Send me the dxf and I'll cut your prototype.
If that is out of your reach then just pose like those chicks on the mud flaps and have your wife snap the shot. I'll take it from there.:thumbsup:

Kent Whitten

· #15 · Nov 7, 2009

I started doing that about 3 years ago. I just thought it up and assumed the good finish carpenters did this. Puts the cut mark right on the money, super accurate.

PA woodbutcher

· #16 · Nov 7, 2009

basswood said:
Hey Gus,

The method you show is similar to how I use my "auxiliary fence and table set up". You did a nice job of showing how to get very accurate miters. It also has the benefit of being zero clearance, so no "exit wounds." Clean cutting.

Many trim carps use fairly sloppy reveals (3/16" +or- 1/16", so they never dial in the accuracy. Your method does help bring the accuracy of trim carpenters into the tighter tolerances of the cabinet makers... which is where they should be.:thumbup:

Cheers,

Bass

I use the 16th all the time. My eyes can't take all those little lines anymore

As long as I'm doing my own cutting which is 99.9% of the time it doesn't create a problem. I'm a pretty good judge of where the 32ths are supposed to be:thumbsup:

Only problem that I'm having is 12" blade has too much deflection on the angle cuts unless I use a heavy blade...thinking about dropping to a 10" for the finer work.

mitreman

· #17 · Nov 15, 2009

I do the same thing but put a couple drops of 2P10 with accelerator to the rip to hold it in place on the fence. Works great if you're cutting mass miters of small molding for raised panels etc. on a 12" saw with a wide fence gap. No more chips flying at you. When you're done, tap the scrap rip with a hammer and it comes off with minimal residue.:thumbup:

Reactions: 1

Double-A

· #18 · Nov 16, 2009

Old eyes? I had to put on my glasses to see the pictures. What are these old eyes you're talking about?

Leo G

· #19 · Nov 16, 2009

Been doing it for over a decade. Still a great idea.

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.