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Matt, here's a picture of a tracksaw cut.



And some progress photos. Stepped away today for another job and will be gone tomorrow as well. Rain Monday so hopefully back on the deck job on Tuesday.



Sick! You do quality work, props.
Pic #1 is awesome, clean clean clean..... Like a manufactures photo.
Pic #2, the decking looks purple? Weird. Out of curiosity, what device took those photos?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Sick! You do quality work, props.
Pic #1 is awesome, clean clean clean..... Like a manufactures photo.
Pic #2, the decking looks purple? Weird. Out of curiosity, what device took those photos?
The sun was going down, maybe that messed with the coloring? It's Azek River Rock which is a grey color.

Iphone 6
 

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Parker this had always been my question as well. The solid beam is most common here in Southern Cali. Seems to me like a lot less work too.
We're in the land of big wood - East coasters have problems finding quality 4x stock so it's easier/faster/less expensive to lam up 2x.

IRC doesn't call out specific sized stock, only that the structural framing meets engineering specs for the weights it's supporting.

Mac
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Travis how did the cantilever figure out?

Also are you doing 16" centers with the azek?
Well, it was 32" from the edge of the girder to the end of the joists on the house side. Like I said, I hadn't measured. Dad said he wasn't worried about it since all we did was expand the deck but the original had that much over hang. So now I'm scared... lol.

Anybody who knows more about deck building code want to chime in and say that since it's a double cantilever you can extend more than 24"...

I'm doing 12" centers since it's running at a 45° angle.
 

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Well, it was 32" from the edge of the girder to the end of the joists on the house side. Like I said, I hadn't measured. Dad said he wasn't worried about it since all we did was expand the deck but the original had that much over hang. So now I'm scared... lol.

Anybody who knows more about deck building code want to chime in and say that since it's a double cantilever you can extend more than 24"...

I'm doing 12" centers since it's running at a 45° angle.
off the top of my head you measure from center of the posts so lets you its 10ft between centers. you are then allowed a max over hang of 2.5ft. basically 1/4th the post centers. That over hang is then measured from the center of the post to outside edge. If that makes sense.

I very much doubt they will measure it. only one of the code guys here does and he's a d*** head. As long as you are close i'm sure you will be fine. Whats funny is around here i see a few which are way over what they are meant to be yet they have sun rooms built on them and they aint come down.

i see the steps and though dam i hope he aint gone 16" centers as that gap looked big between the stringers.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
off the top of my head you measure from center of the posts so lets you its 10ft between centers. you are then allowed a max over hang of 2.5ft. basically 1/4th the post centers. That over hang is then measured from the center of the post to outside edge. If that makes sense.

I very much doubt they will measure it. only one of the code guys here does and he's a d*** head. As long as you are close i'm sure you will be fine. Whats funny is around here i see a few which are way over what they are meant to be yet they have sun rooms built on them and they aint come down.

i see the steps and though dam i hope he aint gone 16" centers as that gap looked big between the stringers.

Hm. Well, I guess we will find out then. The stringers are on 16's. I thought it could span 16"...
 

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off the top of my head you measure from center of the posts so lets you its 10ft between centers. you are then allowed a max over hang of 2.5ft. basically 1/4th the post centers. That over hang is then measured from the center of the post to outside edge. If that makes sense.

I very much doubt they will measure it. only one of the code guys here does and he's a d*** head. As long as you are close i'm sure you will be fine. Whats funny is around here i see a few which are way over what they are meant to be yet they have sun rooms built on them and they aint come down.

i see the steps and though dam i hope he aint gone 16" centers as that gap looked big between the stringers.
I've had a city engineer tell me it's from start of bearing, is where you measure from.
 

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I've had a city engineer tell me it's from start of bearing, is where you measure from.
I think thats the rule for the joist being inside the posts for joist spans but for cantilevers i think they say middle of the post that way its slipt between the joist and the overhang. But it would make sense for it to be from the start of bearing as that's where its gonna lever from.

Here's what our county code book says. I bet travis is the same as he just down the road from me.
 

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I think thats the rule for the joist being inside the posts for joist spans but for cantilevers i think they say middle of the post that way its slipt between the joist and the overhang. But it would make sense for it to be from the start of bearing as that's where its gonna lever from.

Here's what our county code book says. I bet travis is the same as he just down the road from me.
The IRC is like the bible. 13,900 different interpretations, from the same writing. :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #54
What's odd is the deck used to have no overhang on the end away from the house but it had a 32" overhang at the house. We added the 24" overhang on the outer edge. It's only a 7 year old house too. No way that would pass code right?
 

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What's odd is the deck used to have no overhang on the end away from the house but it had a 32" overhang at the house. We added the 24" overhang on the outer edge. It's only a 7 year old house too. No way that would pass code right?
Two things, one it may be only 25% of the span, and two the inspector could of missed it or saw it and said nothing.
 

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Two things, one it may be only 25% of the span, and two the inspector could of missed it or saw it and said nothing.
I WISH I had 25% to work with. For some reason my municipality has decided 16" is the max cantilever regardless of joist size.

I just submitted a 12' long 2x10 joist layout that cantilevered a total of 18" and they modified me to 16".
 

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Discussion Starter #57
So we got the roof on it and did some more stair framing work.

I ended up switching the stringer's to 9" OC after the helpful link from Mac.
Also blocked for the picture frame on the stairs.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAADK0/BLl3qf9QPT4/w649-h865-no/IMG_2819.JPG

As always, I came up with a couple more questions. How do you guys handle the bottom of your stairs? What makes for a really solid set of stairs? I did the blocking between the middle stringers because I realized they're not tied together by anything but the decking. That's how we always do it with wood but I figured with the PVC I might should block them.

It also seemed to help make the posts sturdier. But can I do anything better or different next time?


On the deck at the edge of the porch roof we'll be putting in a few more 4x4 posts to for the end wall of the for the screen to attach to. We had discussion on putting the posts on the decking vs cutting the decking out and putting the posts on the framing. I was very much in favor of the framing option but Dad and the other guy we were discussing it with said the decking seemed fine.

The posts aren't really load bearing. My understanding is the decking will expand and contract almost entirely linearly. Dad had suggested screwing through from underneath for the posts.

My standpoint was, maybe that way works, but I just really felt like it was better to cut out and go all the way down to the framing. I couldn't really give much reason other than expansion and contraction which seems like it wouldn't really mess up anything in the first place. Anybody have advice for me on that? I'm pretty sure the way we left it was Dad saying it was fine to do it my way since I thought we should but he still didn't see why.
 

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Nice job Travis. Well there are a couple ways to tie in that last post. I always drop it through the decking and tie it to the framing. You can even drop the last post in the footing, or drop it through the framing setting on top the footing and block it nice and tight. Also you can fill the two outside stringer bays holding the posts, with concrete. A couple shovel fulls around the post to help lock it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Nice job Travis. Well there are a couple ways to tie in that last post. I always drop it through the decking and tie it to the framing. You can even drop the last post in the footing, or drop it through the framing setting on top the footing and block it nice and tight. Also you can fill the two outside stringer bays holding the posts, with concrete. A couple shovel fulls around the post to help lock it in.
The bottom stair posts are ThruLok'd to the stringer and sitting on 12" footing blocks. The center 3 stringers are on a concrete pad we poured. The blocking I did at the bottom of the steps seemed to help. I just was curious what other ways people used. The concrete is certainly an interesting idea.

What about the 4x4's on the deck for the screen wall. Any thoughts on that?
 
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