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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an A/C question.(OBVIOUSLY!):rolleyes:

I will try to word this in a way that avoids the “how much” question.:whistling

And forgive me if I get some terms wrong.:blink:

My external Heat Pump conked out a few months ago. Metal shaving most likely from the compressor.

I had a couple of A/C guys check it out and that was the finding.

This was the options I was presented with.

I have a 10 seer system. So I could install a 13 seer external unit it would work but throw the seer rating off. Or Replace the whole system air handler and heat pump with a 13 seer.

Now I was told if I do either the future prob could be that if I have a problem after the 1st of the year I’m screwed in the fact the systems coming out are Puron(?).

So if the above is true. How soon will the “new” coolant type systems be on the market available for purchase and install?

Also what would Ya’lls recommendation be on the brand that delivers the best Quality with quiet performance and size.

I believe a 15 seer is the new “minimum” and I would be currently cooling aprox 1,500 sq ft. In the future I hope to enclose my garage so it would add aprox 500.

So am I looking at a_________ brand 15 seer 4 ton? (I believe 3 ½ ton is what I have)

Thanks in advance!:notworthy
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
http://www.althoffhome.com/res/Services/seer.htm

Hi JTPro this is a link to what a SEER rating is, really a measurement of efficiency.

Don't know if this helps but I was thinking maybe you are thinking it is something else.

Andy.
I knew but THANKS for checking SA!:thumbup:

I actually JUST found out about the "Seer" when the A/C went.

I just know 10 seer is obsolete and 13 is more common so if I got into 15 (that's what my freind has in a 2 year old house) it would be more effecient and be slightly ahead of the curve.

Again THANKS and good info I like to know an explanation behind the term!:notworthy
 

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You can go either or on the refrigerant. Existing gas, R22, will go up in price as it is phased out but there will always be a replacement refrigerant clone available.

R410A is Puron. It will always be close in price to R22.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You can go either or on the refrigerant. Existing gas, R22, will go up in price as it is phased out but there will always be a replacement refrigerant clone available.

R410A is Puron. It will always be close in price to R22.
Ok thanks.:thumbsup:

I asked 'cause I either misunderstood or was mis guided as to the refrigerant only being one system or another.

I didn't think one system could handle either/or.

I guess it's like when they switched refrigerants in cars.

You just need to flush the system from one before adding/recharging the system with another.
 

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You can re-use the line-set, but you should replace the indoor coil. Obviously, there is an added cost in replacing the indoor coil, but if you want to have the advantage of the higher seer rating, you are going to want to replace the coil. Also, if you want the the benefit of the "super higher seer rating", you should have a variable speed air handler.

You might be able to get away without replacing the coil, as it has been done, but it shouldn't be encouraged seeing as you are already shelling out a bit of money for a new heat pump, and it sounds as if you intend to stay at this place for awhile. Let it be noted, that it's easy to say when it's not my money. But, if it were my Aunt Gertie...I would recommend replacing the indoor coil as well.
 

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Ok thanks.:thumbsup:

I asked 'cause I either misunderstood or was mis guided as to the refrigerant only being one system or another.

I didn't think one system could handle either/or.

I guess it's like when they switched refrigerants in cars.

You just need to flush the system from one before adding/recharging the system with another.

I did not say 410A and R22 are interchangeable within the same system.

I said that you should not worry about buying an R22 system instead of a 410a system because of the R22 phase out. R22 as well as substitute gases will still be around for the 22 ACs if you want to go that way.
 

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13 seer is the new minimum since about 2 years ago.
15 seer is just the minimum if you go after the stimlus plan rebate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did not say 410A and R22 are interchangeable within the same system.

I said that you should not worry about buying an R22 system instead of a 410a system because of the R22 phase out. R22 as well as substitute gases will still be around for the 22 ACs if you want to go that way.
:wallbash: Ok NOW I hear you!

Sometimes I'm like a mule. You gotta hit me in the head with a 2X4 to get my attention. :laughing:

Gotcha!:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You can re-use the line-set, but you should replace the indoor coil. Obviously, there is an added cost in replacing the indoor coil, but if you want to have the advantage of the higher seer rating, you are going to want to replace the coil. Also, if you want the the benefit of the "super higher seer rating", you should have a variable speed air handler.

You might be able to get away without replacing the coil, as it has been done, but it shouldn't be encouraged seeing as you are already shelling out a bit of money for a new heat pump, and it sounds as if you intend to stay at this place for awhile. Let it be noted, that it's easy to say when it's not my money. But, if it were my Aunt Gertie...I would recommend replacing the indoor coil as well.
Well I won't get into my situation but if things work out I plan on living here for the rest of my life.

When other issues have been resolved I do plan on the whole system so I can avoid nickles and dimes.

I beleive package deals always save in the long run when you can afford the up front money.:thumbsup:
 

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It sounds as if you really are not ready to replace the indoor coil, and that is highly recommended. If finances aren't available for a new indoor coil, you might as well simply replace the compressor only (not the whole outdoor unit). It's less than ideal, but it will give you time to save money to do things "right".

You don't want to install a 410 system with a coil that has been used with r-22.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It sounds as if you really are not ready to replace the indoor coil, and that is highly recommended. If finances aren't available for a new indoor coil, you might as well simply replace the compressor only (not the whole outdoor unit). It's less than ideal, but it will give you time to save money to do things "right".

You don't want to install a 410 system with a coil that has been used with r-22.
Thanks. The compressor was the "final blow". There's never a "good time" to have to drop $$$$$ this just is a "worse time".

Right now it's not an "either or" it's a "neither nor" .:sad:

But I do appreciate options so when I at least have a budget to work with I can set goals for what funds and where.:thumbsup:
 

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Heat pump. Change both.
The old indoor coils, are too small for the 13 SEER heat pumps. So you end up with trouble in the heating mode.
 

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You might be able to get away without replacing the coil, as it has been done, .

How many heat pumps haveyou done this with and actually had it work!?!?

You WILL NOT get it to work. I have yet to find one that will work in those conditions unless you happen to have a oversized indoor coil which was rare way back when anyway.

Change them both. Stop being cheap. This is a unit that runs more than your car and last longer usually. It isn't suppossed to be cheap.:whistling
 

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I just replaced my seized 1992 Carrier 5 ton condenser with a new Carrier Performance Puron condenser.

In order to recognize the SEER ratings, and warranty, I needed to install a new line set and a new Evap coil. Problem became to fit the new A-coil - it was taller. I needed at least 3 more inches of ceiling space in the basement on top of the vertical fan coil. No Dice - so I spec'd out an equivalent N-Coil with the same BTU rating, and everything works great.

I went with 3/8" for the liquid line and 3/4" for the gas line.

Bottom line - the Puron requires a larger line set and coil tube - period.
 

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I went with 3/8" for the liquid line and 3/4" for the gas line.

Bottom line - the Puron requires a larger line set and coil tube - period.
Actually. R410A(Or Puron as you called it) doesn't require a larger line set then a R22 same SEER.
And often not in replacement when going to a higher SEER.

Many older smaller tonnage units did use small liquid lines and vapor lines.
But, if checked with the manufacturer, a 13 SEER R410A is approved for those line sizes. But not part of the standard install publication.
 

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I just replaced my seized 1992 Carrier 5 ton condenser with a new Carrier Performance Puron condenser.



I went with 3/8" for the liquid line and 3/4" for the gas line.

Bottom line - the Puron requires a larger line set and coil tube - period.
Is ¾" what the install instructions called for.
Many want 7/8"
 

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Actually. R410A(Or Puron as you called it) doesn't require a larger line set then a R22 same SEER.
And often not in replacement when going to a higher SEER.

Many older smaller tonnage units did use small liquid lines and vapor lines.
But, if checked with the manufacturer, a 13 SEER R410A is approved for those line sizes. But not part of the standard install publication.

According to Carrier, this model of condenser required a larger evap coil and line set to be able to have the max SEER rating of the unit. The original 5 ton system was a 10 SEER. The new 5 Ton Performance system with the R410A and N coil with specified lines is now a 15 SEER as rated by the ARI 210/240 specification.
 
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