Chemically hardens, but dries through evaporation.

Even 5 minute mud takes a day or 2 to dry depending on thickness, humidity, etc.

You can do your next coat as soon as it sets, and you can speed drying with heat.

 

What he said.

When we have to get a patch done quickly, we use Durabond for the fist coat. Then Easy sand for the rest. I usually get 45 minute mud. Sanding would have to be done the next day.

Even with the 45 minute mud, there is some variance in setting times. If we used it all the time, we would probably be better at mixing it to get consistent setting times.

 

http://www.contractortalk.com/f49/i-have-some-small-drywall-repairs-do-loong-way-home-274985/

 

Crank up the temp, get some fans, dehumidifier...

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Use 5 minute or 20 minute for tight deadlines. You don't want to be sanding something like durabond, it sets too hard. Don't leave that coat proud, lumpy, or with a bunch of tool marks, it'll be a pain if you do. You can shave setting compound before it can be sanded, so that can speed things up a little as well.

 

Thanks for your advice.
Merry Xmas

 

How tight? Is this a same-day job?

I could see getting the first coat on in the morning, heat gun to dry it fully, then the follow-up coats will be quick and easy. Note that it may look dry from the gun, but moisture may reappear as it gets to the surface. Watch for that and keep at it. Vigorously mix your first coat and it might just dry out in half the time for you, too.

Edit: and keep your sanding to a minimum...that's just more compound to dry anyway!

 

I have 8 hrs in the evening and 3 hours in the am the next day. i can tape it and leave it.overnight till 5pm when i can get back in., Since I have some butt joints from a patch to fill.

 

I'd use 20 minute for initial coats. Then skim it with an all purpose for the final coat, put a fan on it and it will be ready to sand, prime and paint. :thumbsup:

 

Why AP? I was doing Light weight but it can be too easily sanded away and soft so I compromised with medium.

 

Setting muds are not fast drying!

JS!! Set /Cure/ two different thangs !

 

The couple of smaller knives I tape with are stainless steel and my bigger finishing blades are steel.

Im guilty of not always mixing or thinning. I am usually bouncing between jobs and tasks. not fully focused on just mudding. The jobs I know Im taping and mudding all day I mix and whip nice. I even keep a bucket of water around to dip my knife in occassionally. I get nice edges on those jobs. Its is a big diference.

Today I used both medium and AP. The medium is was wayyyyy to stiff.

 

My six inch knife is square and probably 20yrs old. Since the beginning I have always grabbed this knife. Its really a favorite. Its way due and has a nick but I sanded the edge smooth. lol I only like round shaped knifes on smaller 4" knives.

 

my six inch knife is square and probably 20yrs old. Since the beginning i have always grabbed this knife. Its really a favorite. Its way due and has a nick but i sanded the edge smooth. Lol i only like round shaped knifes on smaller 4" knives.

20 years?? In drywall years that's like ....110 !!!

 

It's all in the tools . You can't buy a 5ver off the shelf the first day and make it work.

 

And thanks to your other thread post with the wool roller I dug mine out. I didnt know you could replace the roller covers mines hardened up and after I smacked the hell out of it to loosen it up the cover is worthless.

 

When the wool wears out ..That's about the time the spool goes too.. I pitch em at that point ... I mean It's only $20 ...If It worked ya 5 homes ? Whats It owe Ya ?

 

Tom, if you're just going to grab thinned or unthinned and start working, you really need to consider having two sets of knives to handle the different amount of pressure you have to use.

Knives and rollers are cheap. If you aren't replacing your knives with some regularity, chances are you're doing way more sanding or taking way more time detailing than you could otherwise.:no:

 

What would you use steel for thinned and stainless steel for unthinned coats?

Not sure what your getting at.

 

I used to use the blue steel ones. Grabbed a stainless and it is so much better to me. I usually use a towel for mudding, but I am liking this particular knife a lot.

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My issues seem to stem a lot of times in patching old to new drywall.
The old drywall was a full 1/2 thick plus the added mud and it seems 5 coats of paint. The new lightweight that is only left now is closer to 3/8 than a 1/2.
Its a dam nuisance working with it to get it to match the existing finished walls.

 

I've read about people using plaster of paris and ap mud. Does anyone use this method? Does it cure any faster?

 

YIKES
I went back to get the finish coat on after cranking up the heat to 85 and running 2 fans on the repair. The paper seam tape cracked on the one edge that was on the painted side of the wall I feathered out on the 3rd coat of reg. mud. The joint itself is fine. The tape was fine after the second coat of reg. mud.
My guess, dried to fast and shrank. would that be a good assumption.
Do I seam that now and re feather it or maybe cut the tape back a bit and feather it out. 1st coat was 90
God It was really rockin along with the advice I was getting.

 

Does ice cold water make 45 minute set up faster? I'm just mudding in a shower stall and it is seeing up like 20 minute.

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Hot speeds up the reaction but I believe the bags separate chemical sometimes. I often felt some batches set up faster than others.

I am going to pick up 3 new of my most knife sizes and see how it works out.

 

I find steel to be more flexible and stainless to be stiffer. I'll do 20 min in small batches, then knife scrape anything sticking out

 

The blue steel is easier to manipulate but keeping it clean is a pia. I have both on hand, stainless is the primary.
Hot mud and green lid are all I use. Im not carrying 3 or 4 different types of mud in for a job.