I'm not an electrician but had to look it up. It looks like the tan/yellow has smaller wings/profile for tighter spaces. They're talking about a "flexible skirt" on the tan/yellow, also.
3M Wire Nuts
Unless I'm going crazy, what the hell is the difference between the 3m Orange/Blue and Tan/Yellow.
Dimensionally the look the same....and the wire chart is the same for both. The only difference seems to be the color of the damm nut/skirt which makes no sense whatsoever to have 2 like models, just in different colors...
Dimensionally the look the same....and the wire chart is the same for both. The only difference seems to be the color of the damm nut/skirt which makes no sense whatsoever to have 2 like models, just in different colors...
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I'll have to go the truck and grab them both but dimensionally, they look the same - just different colors....
As far as I can tell, the R/Y and O/B are the same - up to 3 12-gauge solid conductors.
The big problem with the 3Ms compared to the cheapo wire nuts is that I can't build up as big a callus on the side of my index finger.
The big problem with the 3Ms compared to the cheapo wire nuts is that I can't build up as big a callus on the side of my index finger.
Straight from the horses mouth (3M).
They have both on the market.....same thing. The tan/yellow is to be in-line with another competing maker who makes one in the similar range....cough cough, Ideal Tractions..
They have both on the market.....same thing. The tan/yellow is to be in-line with another competing maker who makes one in the similar range....cough cough, Ideal Tractions..
Ya know...this getting older sucks....As far as I can tell, the R/Y and O/B are the same - up to 3 12-gauge solid conductors.
The big problem with the 3Ms compared to the cheapo wire nuts is that I can't build up as big a callus on the side of my index finger.
I don't do electrical dailey, but sometimes/often when I do, I'll be doing the whole house.....
and so I got plain tired of twisting wire nut after wirenut.... went and got that screwdriver with a wirenut socket in the handle....
and now my fingers are smooth as a babys fanny.... well maybe not... but no more cramping in my fingers at least.
Best...Merry Xmas
They make a tool for twisting wirenuts? Where can you get one of them.? I thought about something for my cordless drill. How cool would that be.MTN REMODEL LLC said:Ya know...this getting older sucks....
I don't do electrical dailey, but sometimes/often when I do, I'll be doing the whole house.....
and so I got plain tired of twisting wire nut after wirenut.... went and got that screwdriver with a wirenut socket in the handle....
and now my fingers are smooth as a babys fanny.... well maybe not... but no more cramping in my fingers at least.
Best...Merry Xmas
Gare... They also make screwdrivers with that socket in the end of the handle....They make a tool for twisting wirenuts? Where can you get one of them.? I thought about something for my cordless drill. How cool would that be.
...assuming you are a little stronger than Tin, who apparently needs some 18V help.
Another debate....I suppose, but the only time I use the nuts without pretwisting is either with solid on stranded, or stranded/stranded. Solids always has a ***** twist - the nut it just to insulate it...
Depends on what the manufacturer recommends. Most of the time the directions say it is not necessary.Another debate....I suppose, but the only time I use the nuts without pretwisting is either with solid on stranded, or stranded/stranded. Solids always has a ***** twist - the nut it just to insulate it...
On smaller solid wire 16awg and up I find with solid conductors that if they are trimmed even at an acceptable length (not too short or too long for the wire nut) and are straight, you can just thread the wire but on while holding the conductors tight. If done right you can remove the wire nut and find perfectly twisted wires.
It's policy for us to twist all solid building wire prior to wire nuts so for me it's a non issue.
The only time I don't prettwist is on temporary wiring be it light stringers, wire tree,etc or something that will be coming back apart before the end of the work day. The manf.says its ok and will make my life easier. Anything permanent is a different story. Might as well shoot for the lowest resistant splice as possible. I think the manual twist adds some mechanical coupling assurance but more so I think it helps create a better and larger contact area between the conductors.
It's policy for us to twist all solid building wire prior to wire nuts so for me it's a non issue.
The only time I don't prettwist is on temporary wiring be it light stringers, wire tree,etc or something that will be coming back apart before the end of the work day. The manf.says its ok and will make my life easier. Anything permanent is a different story. Might as well shoot for the lowest resistant splice as possible. I think the manual twist adds some mechanical coupling assurance but more so I think it helps create a better and larger contact area between the conductors.
I thought it was NEC, or California code, but around here, you must pre-twist solid conductors. The electrician who trained me sure drilled it into me anyway.Another debate....I suppose, but the only time I use the nuts without pretwisting is either with solid on stranded, or stranded/stranded. Solids always has a ***** twist - the nut it just to insulate it...
Hah! I just gave him what he asked for. When I get the tremblin's, I just use my lineman's pliers. :jester:...assuming you are a little stronger than Tin, who apparently needs some 18V help.
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