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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, this is a screwed up build. I have a small bathroom. The vanity goes wall to wall. If I built it as a single unit I don't think I could get it installed. So I split it up. Since there are drawers in the center the deck doesn't matter to me. Plus I'll be covering it with a 1/4" pc of plywood to cover the seams and make it look pretty even though I doubt anyone will ever see it.

I have is setup so I can install the left unit and then the right unit and then slip the center unit in and screw it from the rear to make it into one cabinet. This way I can scribe both the left and right stiles to the wall and have a nice perfect fit.

So I am nutz?





 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Assembled the doors and the drawer fronts today. Made the boxes and glued them onto the face frames. Sized the doors and drawer fronts.

Here it is pieced together


Here is the bottom of the drawer cabinet. Those joints are from the left and right cabinet decks merging under the cabinet. The drawer cabinet doesn't have a bottom until it's place in position and then pocket screwed down. That's the secret to the build so I can do the wall to wall scribing easily. I did a 1" ship lap joint on the meeting decks so there won't be a gap to the floor. It doesn't matter anyway, it'll be covered with a 1/4" pc of plywood.

 

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I've been doing more cabinet/built in work lately so this is really interesting. I like how the middle section sits proud but with a track saw the center face frame could be cut to fit flush with the side cabinets after they were scribed. That is, if you wanted it flush.

I see the carcass is flush with the outside of the face frame, how do you pad out for the door hinges, are they euro? Flush with outside aside from the scribing room.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've been doing more cabinet/built in work lately so this is really interesting. I like how the middle section sits proud but with a track saw the center face frame could be cut to fit flush with the side cabinets after they were scribed. That is, if you wanted it flush.

I see the carcass is flush with the outside of the face frame, how do you pad out for the door hinges, are they euro? Flush with outside aside from the scribing room.
The box side is inset 3/4" from the outside of the FF, not including the scribe that is there. When I'm done scribing there should be 3/4" space between the outside of the box and the wall.

The design was based on something she saw in Houzz, it had the bump out in the center, that's the design. I used it to my advantage to ease the installation. Wall to wall can be difficult without removable scribes or when the cabinet is prefinished. Especially when lots of plumbing is involved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Inset with Blum concealed hinges.

This is a Grass hinge but pretty much same thing. Inset Arm Plate plus a 110 degree 1/2 cranked hinge

 

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got it. Thats a way to solve my problem but i think theres another. I don't feel great about the way those hinges mount to the back of the face frame. Grass does make inset, side of carcass base plates that are thicker (19mm or less) which could account for the face frame overhang.

I'm curious what people do because I'm working on a set of built ins with applied bead. Face frame is built flush to the inside of the carcass to allow for side mounted euro hinges. This works, but getting things perfectly flush….
 

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got it. Thats a way to solve my problem but i think theres another. I don't feel great about the way those hinges mount to the back of the face frame. Grass does make inset, side of carcass base plates that are thicker (19mm or less) which could account for the face frame overhang. I'm curious what people do because I'm working on a set of built ins with applied bead. Face frame is built flush to the inside of the carcass to allow for side mounted euro hinges. This works, but getting things perfectly flush….
I have given up on trying to make the cabinet sides flush with the face frame to, it's more trouble than it's worth. Try using a full crank hinge with a 9mm mounting plate. Doing it like this will require the face frame to stick past the cabinet side by about 9mm, or 3/8".
 

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I have given up on trying to make the cabinet sides flush with the face frame to, it's more trouble than it's worth. Try using a full crank hinge with a 9mm mounting plate. Doing it like this will require the face frame to stick past the cabinet side by about 9mm, or 3/8".
Pg 19 of Grass's Tiomos .pdf shows a solution for inset

http://www.grassusa.com/downloads/Tiomos_July 2013.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I can't speak for your mental stability, but I really like this idea & will more than likely steal it in the future.:thumbup:
Remember to send me the 32¢ every time you use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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could be if your face frame is flush to inside of cabinet, right?

point is there are many ways to combine box methods and euro hardware. i'm new at it so i haven't really chosen one method yet.
 

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Yes, you are.

I fail to see why this can't easily be done in three separate boxes. Especially with the bump out in the middle.

The frame parts are the only parts that need to touch each other. The box parts could have been separated so the center section could have slid in with no trouble at all until the frame. Then only the frames need to slide in nice and snug.

What am I missing? I know you have a reason I'm not seeing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The plumbing is an issue. It is right up against the left side of the drawer box, I gave it about 1/2" of space. They had to move the cold water line so it was to the left of the drain so I could make the drawers as wide as I got them.


Small room, trim in the way. Door on one side and window on the other. Don't feel like worrying about doing a perfect scribe to get the center cab to fit in snug. I've done it, but I find this easier in the installation phase.
 

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Hmmmm......

Leo not doing a perfect scribe.... Interesting concept.

Bet you will anyway. Heck, you are covering a joint in the deck under a drawer box for crying out loud. You can't help yourself, this I know.
 
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The plumbing is an issue. It is right up against the left side of the drawer box, I gave it about 1/2" of space. They had to move the cold water line so it was to the left of the drain so I could make the drawers as wide as I got them.

Small room, trim in the way. Door on one side and window on the other. Don't feel like worrying about doing a perfect scribe to get the center cab to fit in snug. I've done it, but I find this easier in the installation phase.
Seems like all reasons to go with three boxes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It went into the finish room today. It's going to be black. I'm using the cheater method for the color. 2 coats of black primer and then two coats of clear conversion varnish. Makes a nice black.

Today, in the morning I sprayed the first coats on everything. Then had to trade in a very expensive pc of crap plywood for 2 sheets of 5x5 baltic birch and 100 1qt mixing cups and still walked away with almost $50.

Made the three dovetail drawers for the vanity and sanded them. Then I scuff sanded all the black primed pcs and shot the 2nd coat of primer on them. Tomorrow will be the clear coats.
 

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It went into the finish room today. It's going to be black. I'm using the cheater method for the color. 2 coats of black primer and then two coats of clear conversion varnish. Makes a nice black.

Today, in the morning I sprayed the first coats on everything. Then had to trade in a very expensive pc of crap plywood for 2 sheets of 5x5 baltic birch and 100 1qt mixing cups and still walked away with almost $50.

Made the three dovetail drawers for the vanity and sanded them. Then I scuff sanded all the black primed pcs and shot the 2nd coat of primer on them. Tomorrow will be the clear coats.
What primer are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
ML Campbell's Clawlock.
 
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